Build The Next Great 18.5 Foot Fishing Boat

[Ray Esboldt]

This topic is related to a discussion I have had on and off with a friend of mine for about a year. We both think that an 18.5 boat with adequate horsepower is the perfect multi-species boat for just about any lake on just about any day. They fit in your garage, they trailer easy, it fishes 3 people comfortably, and can double as a family fun boat.

Well, it turns out that a major boat manufacturer is looking for input now on a model that is to be revamped for 2009. And, they would really like input from the members of FishingMinnesota.com. It really doesn't matter who the manufacturer is in this case, as this data could be applied to any brand. All that matters is your input on a 18.5 foot fishing boat built with your preferences.

The following is a list of questions the manufacturer would like your input on. Answer as many of them as you would like. If you could include the number of the question in your answer(s), it would be appreciated.

1) What is max H.P. requirement for this boat in a side console model as well as a tiller model?

2) What is the required cockpit depth for this model (20", 24", 27", or Other)?

3) How is the cockpit area used in this type of boat? (i.e. landing fish, area for trolling, third person fishing spot, etc)

4) The bow platform should be how large (percentage of overall boat length)?

5) The bow platform should be how shallow or deep? (distance from bow deck to gunnel)

6) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the bow platform? (i.e. rod storage, dry storage, etc)

7) What is the ideal size for the rear casting platform?

8) How will the rear platform be used?

9) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the rear platform? (i.e. livewell, dry storage, etc)

10) Is there an optimal console(s) location?

11) Where should the starting battery be located? Trolling motor battery(ies)?

12) Other than rod storage, what type of storage is required? Where does it need to be located?

13) Where should rod storage be located? How many rods should storage hold? What is the maximum rod length to be stored? Should rod storage be lockable?

14) State your livewell dimension preferences (gallons, length, width).

15) One or two livewells?

16) Which of the following livewell features is the most important and the least important? (Length of livewell, Recirculating livewell, Livewell lights, Timer for livewell pump, Dual livewell pumps, Pump out for livewell, Divider for livewell, One door for livewell, Two doors for livewell, Freshwater pick up for livewell)

17) Is bait well required? If yes where is the ideal location? Recerculating pump required?

18) Of the following features, which are the two most important and the least two important features? (Rod Storage, Floor recessed trolling motor pedal, In-Floor storage, Dry Storage, Tackle Trays, Cup holders, Landing net storage, Radio, Interior Lights, Recirculating livewell(s))

19) State your boats percentage of usage from the following. (Fishing – casting, Water Sports, Fishing – trolling, Cruising, Fishing – drifting, Fishing - anchored, Other) - Total must equal 100%.

20) Finally, what else would you do to an 18.5 boat to make it an all-around better boat?

[rodmaker]

Glass or Aluminum??? I know Ranger is going to re-design the T618 & T620. for 2009.

I'm addressing tiller boats here. Walleye fishing boat.

You could basically keep the initial layout of a Ranger/Warrior/ YarCraft and make these modifications.

(YarCraft has this). For tiller models. A enclosed storage area for electronics that keeps them out of the rain, that you can lock up .

Shorten the casting platform to 4-5 ft or so. What good does it to have a 18 or 20 ft boat and only be able to fish 3 guys because the casting platforms comes so far back. Keep it shorter for 3 to fish on the main floor.

Make more floor space available(width) on the main floor. Don't have the side rod holders take up so much room that it really narrows a boat with a 90" beam.

YarCraft does a pretty good job on this.

I guess most importantly. Get costs down and make these boats more affordable.

[cjac]

This is cool!!! Thanks Ray! Maybe sneak this into the muskie and bass forums too??? I'm sure lots of good input would come from there.

1) 150 or 175 side or dual, 115 tiller, easy to buy and I like maxing out the HP.

2) 24 inch, I like some height.

3) All kinds of use, for muskie fishing it's nice to have room for the person with the fish and a net man.

4) 7 or 8 foot front deck.

5) 10 to 12 inches of so.....

6) In deck storage for Plano boxes, tackle, etc. One dry storage up front for raingear, etc is nice too.

7) This is a huge MISS with today's boats. My Lund is too narrow. I'd like a good 2.5 foot wide in back, and if able to utilize the splashpan area for corner extensions.....even better.

8) Casting as a primary use of rear deck. Muskies for me.

9) Livewell on one side, other I use for my trailer straps, anchor, etc. Not too picky on that one.

10) I like the dual console, personally.

11) Starting in the rear, deep cycles up front. Seems easier for me to plug the bank charger in being up front.

12) A good lockable cabinet/glovebox. Somewhere if I stop on the water to eat I can put the GPS/graph in and be secure. Some are locked, but it's plastic. Pretty useless rerally.

13) As much and as long as possible to be honest. Locking, yes.

I go up to 9' on muskie rods, and have nowhere to store them.

14) Don't keep much beyond pannies and some walleyes. I'd say livewell criteria should be based on whatever, if any, requirements exist with livewells for tourney guys.

15) Again, whatever suits tourney requirements. Either way, as it works as a good cooler too!

16) Honestly don't know enough to comment either way, the most fish friendly livewell in general.

17) Not required.

18) Most improtant: Rod and dry storage. Least: Landing net storage and cup holders.

19) Fishing casting 80%, trolling 10%, cruising 10%.

20) Other things: Don't have a rear pedestal seat in the way of the motor when trimmed up. I have a big scar in my Yammy from that. Just poor design. Also, don't have a storage door that hits the seat. My Lund rod storage hits the seat. On the bow, I like a bow with enought room for the trolling motor mount plus enough room for the graph, GPS, etc without having them feellike they are on top of each other.

One question not asked was about flooring. I have carpet but kind of like some of these other flooring options available, like the vinyl floors.

Chris

[rodmaker]

Good suggestions Chris.

[Dbl]

 Originally Posted By: Ray Esboldt

.

I will refer only to tiller only questions, its the only boat I run.

1) What is max H.P. requirement for this boat in a side console model as well as a tiller model?

-125hp, still able to troll with, able to get at least 40mph on a boat this size.

2) What is the required cockpit depth for this model (20", 24", 27", or Other)?

- 24" I prefer a deeper boat for late season fishing, keeps you out of the wind in the fall and winter but you don't want it so high the wind starts pushing the boat around.

3) How is the cockpit area used in this type of boat? (i.e. landing fish, area for trolling, third person fishing spot, etc)

-mainly used for trolling and third person fishing spot.

4) The bow platform should be how large (percentage of overall boat length)?

-for me no longer than 1/3 the length of the boat.

5) The bow platform should be how shallow or deep? (distance from bow deck to gunnel)

-I prefer a deeper bow platform because I don't do a lot of casting. I like the security of having some depth to gunnel especially when fishing in bad weather and wind.

6) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the bow platform? (i.e. rod storage, dry storage, etc)

-Rod storage and dry storage

7) What is the ideal size for the rear casting platform?

-It should be a length that when running a tiller doesn't require a long reach back for shifting. With so many variables on tiller handles I know that can be a problem. It should be a consideration along with the space for a livewell/baitwell. I don't use the back for casting so don't need a large area.

8) How will the rear platform be used?

-look at #7 above

9) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the rear platform? (i.e. livewell, dry storage, etc)

-Livewell/baitwell, access to pumps and wiring, starting battery a dry storage area if possible.

10) Is there an optimal console(s) location?

-N/A

11) Where should the starting battery be located? Trolling motor battery(ies)?

-Rear location on starting battery, rear of bow platform for trolling motor batteries. This is a comprimise, the batteries take a pounding up front but having some weight in the bow helps with bow rise in heavy winds and having too much weight at the back of the boat.

12) Other than rod storage, what type of storage is required? Where does it need to be located?

-Storage for anchors, ropes and lines, net storage on the front deck for lifejackets, storage for maps in electronics console, rain gear and clothes storage along sides.

13) Where should rod storage be located? How many rods should storage hold? What is the maximum rod length to be stored? Should rod storage be lockable?

-Storage through bow platform, up to 10 rods, 7' length to accommodate length of bow platform. Storage should be lockable

14) State your livewell dimension preferences (gallons, length, width).

-Livewell should be at least 24 to 32 gallon and should be wide enough to fit a standard size minnow bucket into the opening.

15) One or two livewells?

-Two livewells front and rear, important when fishing with more than one guy. I also don't like to transport fish in the front livewell in rough conditions to keep from stressing the fish. I like to split the fish between front and back for O2 reasons as well

16) Which of the following livewell features is the most important and the least important? (Length of livewell, Recirculating livewell, Livewell lights, Timer for livewell pump, Dual livewell pumps, Pump out for livewell, Divider for livewell, One door for livewell, Two doors for livewell, Freshwater pick up for livewell)

-Freshwater pick up very important, pump out for livewell least important.

17) Is bait well required? If yes where is the ideal location? Recerculating pump required?

-Yes baitwell front and rear with recurc pump. The front baitwell should be raised above the bow platform to keep the strain on the back from reaching down low into the livewell for bait.

18) Of the following features, which are the two most important and the least two important features? (Rod Storage, Floor recessed trolling motor pedal, In-Floor storage, Dry Storage, Tackle Trays, Cup holders, Landing net storage, Radio, Interior Lights, Recirculating livewell(s))

-Recirc livewells and Rod storage two most important. Tackle trays and Cup holders least important. I can add those on my own and determine my best location for them.

19) State your boats percentage of usage from the following. (Fishing – casting, Water Sports, Fishing – trolling, Cruising, Fishing – drifting, Fishing - anchored, Other) - Total must equal 100%.

-Fishing-trolling 75%, fishing-casting 10%, Fishing-controlled drifting 5% and water sports 10%.

20) Finally, what else would you do to an 18.5 boat to make it an all-around better boat?

-Include a tiller assist system, unpowered standard with option to powered system. Lockable covered electronics console, space to add electronics such as Satellite radio, VHF radio, etc. Comfortable adjustable seats and power pedestals. Not so wide that you can't reach the electronics-max 90" width.

[Ray Esboldt]

Great stuff so far guys. Everyone can play here, so please throw in your .02 or .10 even if you have no need for an 18.5 foot boat.

[hanso612]

I like to troll and and stillfish for big cats. My biggest beef with most boats today is that they are all built backward. Very little time is spent going from point a to point b and hours spent looking at lines out the back of the boat. Make seeting sturdy and facing out the back good for skiers too. Nobody likes to sit in a jump seet next to the fumes and noise. leave the transome open for landing fish. My dream rig consists of a split winshieldw and small forward deck a with a large step across the front to make it easier to beech and step off. No forward trolling motor to clutter the deck. I need built in headlights for night fishing. Think Wooldridge Alaskan but instead of full canvas lite lund Tyee the cover is full lenght and roles up like a grain truck cover. When not raining and fishing nothing to get in the way of casting. Cover is deployed by putting battons in clips on each gunnel then bending them in a hoop, un roll the cover and pull over hoop. The cover can be pulled halfway over to duck hunt or fish cross current or with wind at back. Cover and boat would of course be camo. the cover is also split and can be pulled over just the front half for trolling in rain. Gunnels should be wide and flat for mounting downriggers and canvas. Battons could be stored in tube canvass is wound on. Next we need to figure out hown tho sleep in this thing. we use an inboard antifreeze cooled engine with a pad over the dog house with integrated backward facing seeting The engine could have a heater that heats the cabin and could be run all year without winterizing the engine would be connected to sterndrive by long jackshaft leaving back deck completely open. Sponsors non back transom on each side would provide additional lift, but also work as dog or swim ladder as well as place to mount trasducer in undesturbed water. Sponsers would also hold joystick driven elecric motors one on each side. Alternator and solar panel to charge battery bank. boat also works as outboard with side seating that holds livewell but folds down to meet the opposite folded down seet. two spots to sleep on seats and one underneith in opposite direction. Find a way to use tube of canvas as sail and run motor on propane stolen from barbeque grills and my pirate fantsies are complete. Hans

[cjac]

Couple more I thought of.....

A handle, somewhere, for the passenger. If I run Mille Lacs the passenger looks like they're riding a bronco without something to hang onto.

I have a bow cover for my Lund and love it. Helps to "hide" tackle boxes, etc under when stopping somewhere and reduces the chance of something blowing out. Also nice on dirt roads to keep dust from hitting the inside of the boat. Takes 2 minutes to snap on, but helps!

Chris

[bassNspear]

ray, do i know this guy

[candiru]

On Livewells: I would use only one and have space for a standard 48 qt cooler. Or, at least make that an option. Trout/salmon guys like to put their fish on ice. I like to do this with all my fish. Rules concerning transportation of fish/water are being tightened and I would rather not mess with it. Or maybe one insulated "livewell" that could be kept dry and rinsed for cleaning.

[candiru]

Downriggers: I would make sure that there were provisions and access for mounting of downriggers/rodholders. Some boats really don't have a place or access for mounting them.

[MinnesotaMongo]

On my Alumacraft - the seat holes are too close to the sides of the boat, and you bump your knees if you are a passenger. Figure out the layout better. And keep the grab rails on the sides for the passengers

Also - a nice spray down system with an appropriate, non-slip floor, so you can hose'r down after a day of fishing.

I would like to see more of a trend toward sturdy, than just cool looking and flimsy. Simple but clean fit and finish would go a long way over fancy graphics.

[prov1900]

Like stated earlier, get rid of the bow livewell and make it insulated for drinks/food/etc, but also rinseable, i.e., drainholes.

Also 2nd the downrigger mounting ability. Beef up rear areas for that purpose, or have a standardized system for adding rigger boards....

Beef up dry storage.

Beef up flimsy hatch handles as well as their ability to be locked.

[cjac]

From one Lund owner to another, those latches are weak, aren't they?

Ray, a prior post also mentioned flooring, I really like the idea of a composite floor that can be sprayed down. Something to really consider and recommend I think...

Chris

[Ray Esboldt]

Flooring! Yes. I really like the viynl floors in my boat, but over time I wonder how the viynl will wear. Will it start to stretch and get sloppy or tear? A non-slip, composite coating might be a better way to go. I know some manufacturers offer a spray down option, and I wish I had that.

Recessed latches would be good. Plus, putting a little backbone on the storage doors that receive foot traffic would be another plus.

[rodmaker]

Back years ago, Crestliner had as on option the anti skid/ vynl flooring. They were nice. You would just hose them down. They held up well.

[Black_Bay]

Not to be a smart alec but personally I think Lund has hit the nail on the head.

http://www.lundboats.com/186fishermangl_2008.html

and http://www.lundboats.com/1800prov_2008.html

[primetime49]

Ray

very good forum to have around this time of year

We will be giving our local school an empty hull platform to finish off a 18.5 boat this spring.As they are busy the rest of the year building drop axle fish houses we have to bring it to the school and back from our shop each day.

I am going to suggest that they start reading this site and see if they want to incorporate some of the ideas here.

We already know that they will be adding a self bailing diamond plate floor,after that the canvas is blank.

Keep the ideas coming and know that Fishing Minnesota is going to the classroom.

[Ray Esboldt]

Black Bay,

Give us some why's. Nothing you would improve or add to either of those boats?

Primetime49,

Heck yes. Have the kids take a look. Have them participate if they have ideas. That would be a fun project.

[eyepatrol]

Good topic. I'll comment on SC (side console) models (but prefer dual console models).

1. SC (or DC) Max HP - 200 (175hp max makes no sense IMO...too close to 150hp)

2. Cockpit depth: 25" - 25.5" (kid safe)

3. Landing fish: yes, trolling: yes (with tiller kicker), 3rd person fishing: yes, Being a father of a 4yr & 2yr old kids, cockpit is great for kids to roam around, safely fish, entertain themselves.

4. Bow platform area: 35% - 40% of overall boat length.

5. Hmmm...maybe 12" - 15".

6. Bow platform storage: 1 split compartment (1 side anchor & rope, other side windsock or other); 1 compartment for lifejackets & rain gear; 1 compartment for cooler; rod storage next to console like many other boats.

7. Rear casting platform size: 18" - 24" (wide enough to sit comfortable on for trolling w/ tiller kicker motor).

8. Used for sitting on while trolling w/ tiller kicker motor; used to stand on for casting; pedestal base for erecting a seat.

9. Large/main livewell; main motor battery storage; oil tank for 2-stroke motors.

10. Traditional location of console(s) is fine IMO.

11. Starting battery: under rear platform, Trolling Battery(ies): floor of cockpit or beneath rods under floor of rod locker.

12. Water skis storage - under gunnel in cockpit area; oar(s), air horn, rod holders, spare parts under opposite gunnel; tools - under bow trolling motor platform; console storage for DC models.

13. Rod storage: along side of console in bow platform (as is now traditionally located); # of rods: 10; Max. rod length: 8'; lockable: yes!

14. Main livewell (under rear platform): 30gal min.

15. Two livewells: yes! One under rear platform (30gal min.); one in bow platform (20gal min.)

16. Most Important: Length of livewell, Recirculating livewell, Livewell lights, Timer for livewell pump, One door for livewell, Freshwater pick up for livewell....Least Important: Dual livewell pumps, Pump out for livewell, Divider for livewell,Two doors for livewell

17. Baitwell: yes! Preferably elevated above the bow platform (I think some Lund ProV's have this?) in front of the console with recirculation & timer

18. Two Most Important: Dry Storage, In-Floor storage (underutilized in most boats IMO).....Two Least Important: Landing net storage, Floor recessed trolling motor pedal.

19. Fishing – casting = 55%, Water Sports = 2%, Fishing – trolling = 35%, Cruising = 0%, Fishing – drifting = 1%, Fishing - anchored = 7%, Other = 0%

20. On a dual console model, make the consoles more narrow such that the walk-thru area is wider. More cup holders: 2 in rear, 2 at consoles, at least 1 up front. On dual console models, higher windshields to extend above a person's head. Put starting key on right side of console (this is how we start our vehicles....right handed!). Make sure there is under-console storage. Gunnels don't need to be too wide....maybe 8" - 10" at most. Make batteries very easily accessible...those things aren't light weight. More interior lights (6 - 8 LED lights total). Standard 4 air-ride seats and cost reduction if less. Allow more room on console for larger-size sonar units (i.e. - LXC 111, etc). Sizeable fuel tank (36gal. min.). Elevated baitwell up front is important in my opinion - I don't want to have to get on my hands & knees and reach down to grab a minnow every time I need one. And make on-board battery chargers a standard feature.

That's about all I can think of for now.

[MinnesotaMongo]

Primetime - are you basing your boat on the "Lake Assault"? I think they have diamond plate as well.

[Black_Bay]

 Originally Posted By: Ray Esboldt

Black Bay,

Give us some why's. Nothing you would improve or add to either of those boats?

There can always be improvement but the Lunds fit my needs very well. I've had some time to give it some thoug hso here you go.

1) What is max H.P. requirement for this boat in a side console model as well as a tiller model? 175hp is about max on any 18 footer. Power tiller steering should be available.

2) What is the required cockpit depth for this model (20", 24", 27", or Other)? I like the 24” depth. It’s high enough to feel safe but low enough to lean over to wash the worm dirt off.

3) How is the cockpit area used in this type of boat? (i.e. landing fish, area for trolling, third person fishing spot, etc) I use it for a second or third person fishing spot.

4) The bow platform should be how large (percentage of overall boat length)? About a 3rd to a half. Make it a 3rd if there is a full windshield. I only fish with one person in the bow so more room in the cockpit area is nice.

5) The bow platform should be how shallow or deep? (distance from bow deck to gunnel) Relatively shallow. I’m just guessing but about 12” to 18”.

6) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the bow platform? (i.e. rod storage, dry storage, etc) Yes rod storage (8 foot rods, and tubes set up so spinning rods eyes fit) dry storage, and a secure place for anchors.

7) What is the ideal size for the rear casting platform? Say 12 to 14” high by 14 to 18” wide. I don’t use the platform for casting so it really doesn’t matter.

8) How will the rear platform be used? My boat has the livewell and storage. I don’t cast from there or put a pedestal on it. Make sure if someone does put a seat there it doesn’t hit the outboard when it’s trimmed up.

9) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the rear platform? (i.e. livewell, dry storage, etc) Livewell/baitwell, dry storage.

10) Is there an optimal console(s) location? Yes on the left side. Possible full windshield model.

11) Where should the starting battery be located? Trolling motor battery(ies)? Starting battery below the floor in the rear of the boat along the center line. Trolling batteries (3) under the front platform along the centerline.

12) Other than rod storage, what type of storage is required? Where does it need to be located? Actual dry storage. Lockable. At least one big enough for an anchor. Vinyl lined because carpet hold moisture and is harder to clean. Otherwise as much storage as one can fit in the boat. Rear electronic storage for tiller model.

13) Where should rod storage be located? How many rods should storage hold? What is the maximum rod length to be stored? Should rod storage be lockable? In the front platform under the pedestal extending between or next to the console(s). 8 to 10 rods, 8 foot long and big enough for spinning rod guides. Absolutely lockable.

14) State your livewell dimension preferences (gallons, length, width). 2 livewells. Rear should be about 30 gallons. 48 to 50 “ long by ?? Front 12 to 15 gallons ?x?.

15) One or two livewells? 2

16) Which of the following livewell features is the most important and the least important? (Length of livewell, Recirculating livewell, Livewell lights, Timer for livewell pump, Dual livewell pumps, Pump out for livewell, Divider for livewell, One door for livewell, Two doors for livewell, Freshwater pick up for livewell) One door. Other than that I think all of those are important.

17) Is bait well required? If yes where is the ideal location? Recerculating pump required? Yes. Main well in the rear with another smaller one in the front. It’s a pain being minnow boy for everyone when it’s 40 degrees in the spring or fall.

18) Of the following features, which are the two most important and the least two important features? (Rod Storage, Floor recessed trolling motor pedal, In-Floor storage, Dry Storage, Tackle Trays, Cup holders, Landing net storage, Radio, Interior Lights, Recirculating livewell(s)) Most - Rod storage and in floor storage. Least – radio and recessed trolling motor pedal.

19) State your boats percentage of usage from the following. (Fishing – casting, Water Sports, Fishing – trolling, Cruising, Fishing – drifting, Fishing - anchored, Other) - Total must equal 100%. Fishing trolling – 70%, fishing drifting – 25%, fishing anchored – 5%.

20) Finally, what else would you do to an 18.5 boat to make it an all-around better boat? Dry smooth ride. Standard hydraulic steering. Strong transom for 4 stroke main engine and kicker. Console large enough for electronics. Vinyl floor wit hsnap in carpet option. Aluminum or fiberglass. Easy to rig with trolling motor plugs and wire runs under the floor.

[caseymcq]

I think the 1800 Pro-V is pretty close but here are some suggestions:

1) What is max H.P. requirement for this boat in a side console model as well as a tiller model? Side console - 200HP, Tiller 115HP (There are some other mods that may add a little weight. Rating it at 200HP doesn't mean that is what it would have to be rigged with but having the flexibility to go that high would be nice)

2) What is the required cockpit depth for this model (20", 24", 27", or Other)? 24" Good depth to feel comfortable but as mentioned before, easy to lean over the side.

3) How is the cockpit area used in this type of boat? (i.e. landing fish, area for trolling, third person fishing spot, etc) Trolling/third person fishing

4) The bow platform should be how large (percentage of overall boat length)? Just about 50% of the length. The center rod storage like the Pro-V's have is awesome. I want that to be able to accomidate 8' Muskie rods, have the live well/bait well and some dry storage.

5) The bow platform should be how shallow or deep? (distance from bow deck to gunnel) From deck to gunnel right around 12". That would be deep enough to feel comfortable sitting there drifting with rigs on a windy day yet the platform would be high enough for casting.

6) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the bow platform? (i.e. rod storage, dry storage, etc) Dry storage for some along with an area that could get a little air movement for wet anchor ropes, drift socks etc. Rod storage in the center that could handle 8' rods.

7) What is the ideal size for the rear casting platform? Most rear platforms are adequate in terms of size. I would beef up the hatches a little bit on the live well and storage compartment for bigger guys that stand up there.

8) How will the rear platform be used? Casting when appropriate. possibly put a pedistal mount for a bicycle style seat.

9) What type of storage or features are you looking for in the rear platform? (i.e. livewell, dry storage, etc) Live well and starting battery storage and oil resivor for 2-stroke engines.

10) Is there an optimal console(s) location? right at the bow platform to maximize seating.

11) Where should the starting battery be located? Trolling motor battery(ies)? Starting battery should be located under/in the rear deck. Battery storage for up to three batteries in the floor just before the bow platform or under the rod storage in the bow.

12) Other than rod storage, what type of storage is required? Where does it need to be located? Center storge like I have mentioned, with tubes, and storage along the port side.

13) Where should rod storage be located? How many rods should storage hold? What is the maximum rod length to be stored? Should rod storage be lockable? At least 10 - 8' rods in the center with general rod storage port side.

14) State your livewell dimension preferences (gallons, length, width). 25 gallon front and rear.

15) One or two livewells? Two

16) Which of the following livewell features is the most important and the least important? (Length of livewell, Recirculating livewell, Livewell lights, Timer for livewell pump, Dual livewell pumps, Pump out for livewell, Divider for livewell, One door for livewell, Two doors for livewell, Freshwater pick up for livewell) One door, recirculating, bait well could be intergrated. Definitely have lights in the livewell.

17) Is bait well required? If yes where is the ideal location? Recerculating pump required? Definitely having a bait well teamed up with each live well. Recirculating pump would also be a nice. The bait well could be something as simple as a drop in mesh bag.

18) Of the following features, which are the two most important and the least two important features? (Rod Storage, Floor recessed trolling motor pedal, In-Floor storage, Dry Storage, Tackle Trays, Cup holders, Landing net storage, Radio, Interior Lights, Recirculating livewell(s)) Rod storage and in-floor storage.

19) State your boats percentage of usage from the following. (Fishing – casting, Water Sports, Fishing – trolling, Cruising, Fishing – drifting, Fishing - anchored, Other) - Total must equal 100%. 35% Casting, 35% drifting, 15% Anchored, 10% trolling, 5% water sports.

20) Finally, what else would you do to an 18.5 boat to make it an all-around better boat?

[primetime49]

Mongo ,not at all like a Lake Assault

Our boat will be shown here on site when students get a preview of it and then we will keep a webpage up for weekly completion.

Boat is an outboard with a 42 inch tall transom for back trolling and it has a 33 inch Gille brecket for mounting outboard.

All storage including rod lackers 10 foot capacity is either on sides of boat or built into resr transom area .Only the batterys will be stored under floor for stability.

With the bracket mounted motor it will turn on its access at an idle.

Interior height will be 32 inches.

[Ray Esboldt]

Another feature I thought about was a well designed, easy in and easy out, removable passenger console. I am tiller guy, but the guy I fish some tournaments with is a console guy. The double bubble is nice if the wife is along or foul weather is upon you, but I can think of many time where the boat would have just enough more room without the second console.

Keep the posts coming folks. Maybe we can get the manufacturer to dub the boat xxxx Pro FM Series.