Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

newbie auger question Hand or Power?


hilblly

Recommended Posts

Aceinthehole had a drill/auger out and the metro getogether on Prior and it worked for him. You aren't going to go out and drill a hundred holes with it in a day, but you can drill for a little while. I would bring an extra battery with me for the drill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hand auger worked fine for me when i got inot fishing, but i started to get... oh whats the word lazy and out of shape so i broke down and got a eskimo power auger, it is the best money i have ever spent, now i dont feel like im going to have a heart attack after drilling holes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have and use both an 8 inch jiffy and a 6 inch lazer hand auger. And I like both. I use the jiffy to punch a lot of holes and search an area. But when I set up in a spot, I like to drill my second hole with the hand auger.

This weekend the fish were very preasured and if I drilled a hole with the gas auger, no fish. With the hand auger, fish. Even with 20" if ice I can punch a hole almost as fast with the hand auger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just spent the weekend ice fishing pretty heavily with my 6" lazer auger. I put new blades on it, and we had at least 24" of ice this past weekend.

I take back what I said about the hand auger being sufficient. It worked and I brought home a nice dinner, but FNA I got really tired. It never stopped me from moving when I wasn't on fish, but I was much more selective on location to drill. So thankful I had my GPS and lakemaster chip.

If you can swing it, I would get a power auger, but the best advice is to get what will get you out there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The biggest difference I've experienced is the blade. I bought a strikemaster last year at fleet farm. Cutting ice was a consistent struggle. this winter I noticed that one of the blades had broken in half! I brought it to the bait shop to replace the blades when we noticed my broken blades where made in china. Replaced with higher quality blades now it moves quick. I don't punch a ton of holes but I don't think twice about moving. If someone were to give me a gas powered auger I'd take it but I'm good for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to ask yourself how much do you want to spend, and how serious you want to fish?

I can pretty much guarantee you time in and out that you will be a more successful by moving around and or keying in on specific structure. Even the best of the best GPS will not put you on top of that and even if it did, you might find it better 20 ft over.

What that usually means is that you determine your spot and then start drilling holes in some sort of pattern to locate any changes in structure or depth. Then you hop from hole to hole to locate fish.

Can you do this with a hand auger…..yep, but you can also shovel show with a dustpan.

Now if your kind of fishing is driving up to a spot, drilling a hole and sitting there all day, a hand auger will work fine. I’m not saying this is wrong or bad, a lot of people enjoy fishing this way and they catch fish, but you just need to determine what you are going to be doing.

I had a hand auger last year, and drilling holes got old REALLY quick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was out this past weekend with my hand-auger punching many holes through 20” + . Today, I can hardly move my right elbow and shoulder without pain. I’m going to solve this problem by saving my pennies and going with gas by next season.

By the way, I only caught a few small throw back pannies the size of silver dollars. The pain and suffering was not worth it me. lol,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Originally Posted By: weeds
Sort of on topic... if a MN lake is designated "electric boat motor only" does that also mean that gas augers are prohibited?

Weeds, I think the purpose of the "electric boat motor only" is to keep down on boat traffic and speed. I could be wrong though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Originally Posted By: Schloogs
 Originally Posted By: weeds
Sort of on topic... if a MN lake is designated "electric boat motor only" does that also mean that gas augers are prohibited?

Weeds, I think the purpose of the "electric boat motor only" is to keep down on boat traffic and speed. I could be wrong though.

Typically it's to prevent motor oil contamination...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.