Another transom question for Steve Bakken or anyone else that has replaced one o

[fishingdad]

I need to replace the transom on my boat it is a Lund 1800 fisherman. I am thinking of tackling this myself over the winter (maybe).On these bigger deep v boats is there a secret to fitting in the new transom wood after it is precut, glued and resined? As far as I can tell the transom wood on both sides of the transom cutout goes all the way over to the hull and all the way up to the top almost touching the gunnel sandwiched between the inner and outer skin.Do I need to split the new wood transom piece in half left - right with the stringers taking all the force to get it to fit or do you (god forbid)completely remove the outer skin? but I can't figure out how it would be re-riveted with the new transom wood in. Did I make any sense here?

[Steve Bakken]

You're making perfect sense. That problem is why so many people feel so intimidated by doing it themselves. You don't want to take off the back end of the boat, and you definitely don't want to cut the wood into 2 pieces. What you have to do is to peel up the rearmost part of the gunwhale, far enough foreword for the transom to slide out and back in in one peice. Then you roll the aluminum back down and re-rivet it into place over the top of the new wood. Hope that answers your question. If you have any more, I'll do my best to help. Good luck.

[fishingdad]

Steve, Thank You very much for the info. That was one lightning fast response. That makes alot of sense and easier. I looked tonight and I guess I have to figure out a few more things like getting the hardware out of the outboard stringers with Lund and all the foam in there but Thank You again. I may just bite the bullet and see what an estimate from you would run. What is the best way for that? Do I have to bring the boat down for you to take a good look? Thank you again

[Steve Bakken]

We could probably ballpark it over the phone, and then if it's a price range that you're comfortable with, then you can swing it out sometime and we will be able to give you a much more accurate estimate.

[delmuts]

steve ! another question! my girl friend has a older alum. boat that the wood( in the transom ) is shot in , but they are looking for an easier fix. what woudl be a better way to go. add a treated/sealed pc of ply wood to the back of it, or get a pc. of alum, ( 1/4 in?) to add to the back?( we have a trailer manufactor here i can get it from)if the alum. would it be better; then, bolt it on , or have them weld it? thanks del

[Steve Bakken]

The tricky part is strengthening both the front and the back of the transom without making it too thick for the motor to fit. At the top of the trans, the stress is on the inside from the motor pulling outward, here a thick piece of marine grade running all the way from side to side will help band-aid the situation, as long as you bear in mind that it's temporary, because the original wood will continue to decay, creating a void. On the outside, the stress is down low from the bottom of the motor pushing in. Here an extra sheet of aluminum, (running all the way from side to side and then welded to the sidewalls) will help prevent it from poking through. If these can be done and the motor will still fit, then you can at least buy yourself some time. Sorry it's not a more optomistic outlook, but it's kinda like giving advice on how to go the easier route to fixing brakes on a car. It'll get you by for a while, but you don't want to rely on it as a permanent fix.

[delmuts]

thanks steve! i knew it would be a band aid fix.they are trying to get buy til they can afford to buy a pontoon in a few years. will see what we can do! thanks !! del

[Valv]

Steve, contact me please, I have something you might be interested.