2000 Ford Windstar

[Fishinglund]

Hi all!

A friend of mine just bought a used Ford Windstar, and for some reason the rear A/C works great but the front A/C just blows hot air. We are assuming the A/C is all one unit and there are probably modules to direct the air from front to back, but we can't figure out why the back works and the front doesn't. Has anyone had this problem?

Also, It's not a big deal, but the display on his dash keeps saying that the liftgate is open, but it is closed. My guess would be a sensor...does anyone know where to check?

Thank You!

Fishinglund

[Scott K]

The a/c system has one compressor that is shared but has two evaperators, one for the front, and one for the rear. Most likely the temp blend door motor is bad, or the door is stuck in the front.

As for the door ajar light, if it says specifically that the rear hatch is open, there are two switches in the rear hatch, one on each side on the latches, need to remove trim panel to access. If it just shows that there is a door open, each door in the van has a switch on the latch so it can be anyone of the doors.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Wasn't there something about the hot cold blend door breaking and the whole heater box had to be replaced or is this the one where the plastic tip breaks off the end of the actuator? There may be a bigger reason this one was for sale. $$$$$$

A good scan tool will be able to scan the GEM module to see what door specifically is thought to be open. I have had good luck getting them to unstick by spraying penatrating lube down into the latch assemblies from the outside and then open and close the door several times.

[Scott K]

Explorers were the ones you needed to replace the case in. Windstars had an electrical motor issue, and some had the slot in the door bust, do to the motor trying to uver close it and the slot busts.

[Fishinglund]

How do we find the door in the front part of the A/C to see if it is broken or stuck?

Thanks for the replies.

Fishinglund

[Scott K]

The correct way to do this is to check for codes in the module, but one could physically check it, by removing the radio assy, and turning the temp control back and forth to monitor the actuator assy, and you should be able to access it through that opening to remove the screws and inpest the slot to see if it is cracked and when you have the actuator off you can move the temp setting a small amount in either direction to see if the actautor works.

[Jeremy airjer W]

yup! its either a white or black box looking thingy. Should have three wires coming out of it. poss. grey w/ yellow, red w/ black, and black.

[Fishinglund]

OK we removed the radio, and the screws that hold the middle console thing that holds the A/C controls. The back part of this has a whole bunch of plugs that go in it, and the white box/module looks like it has some clips holding it together but it doesn't seem to come apart. Are we looking at the right part, or is the part farther in behind the controls for the fan/temp control?

Thanks again for the help!

Fishinglund

[Jeremy airjer W]

its been a while since I have done one but I think there are two screws that hold it down. It should be about the size of an empty half fold wallet and have one connector.

[Scott K]

Correct this thing should be about 4x5" most likely white, but some where black. has one connector to it. I believe the the other doors are vacuum opererated.

[Shack]

Is it electric? I would think you have found the blend door actuator. I would check the heater box housing, to make sure black housing of heater box is not cracked were actuator sit's. This was a possible concern for those years. Most likely, Airjar is correct. It is actuator.

[Fishinglund]

I'M back again with more questions. Sorry to bring this up again, but I was out of town for a few days and I couldn't check in. My question is...is there a way to prop the blend door open so that it stays that way all the time? Shouldn't that allow the air to flow to both the front and back at the same time?

Thanks,

Fishinglund

[Jeremy airjer W]

I don't remeber specifically how those are set up but I think there are seperate controls for the front and rear HVAC units. If so the rear should be able to blow full cold while the front blows full heat or however you would like. The rear unit has its own heater core, evaperator, blend door, and blower so whatever you do to the front should change the operation of the rear unit (I think ) Its hard to remember specific cars when you work on all makes and models!

Proping the front blend door is an option I suppose. I haven't done it personnally but if NASA can put a remote control car on mars than I don't see why it can't be done somehow!

[dkmitch]

I have a 1999 Windstar that I propped the blending door open. It takes about 20 minutes to take the heater box out and install a self tapping screw. I take it out in the fall and install it in the spring. I would fix it but the van has 150,000 + miles, and this works for me. Also, on my doors the open door light came on, I spray dry gaphite in the hinge area of each door, that worked. I spray it about three times in the last year. The blending door and surronding housing can be replaced, but the last time I checked it was about $500. I need to spend that on the boat's toys.

[Scott K]

airjer is correct, the front and back have there own heater case assy with there own heater cores and evap. so you can adjust front hot, rear cold, or viseversa. And yes if you dont mind you can put something in the way of the blend door to hold it open or closed.

[Shack]

dkmitch,

I used pentrant lube to get those really gummed up door ajar switchs in latch to free up. 9 times out of 10, you can correct it with lube. I also found opening and shutting door about ten times after spraying lube in latch would help. When I was a service advisor, I would gain alot of customers respect by taking care of things like this in service isle at no charge. Another one was when someone would come in on a Friday afternoon, on their way up north and have no trailer lights on their boat or trailer. I would bust out my old test lamp from my desk and head right out to truck. I would quickly test each fuse with test lamp unitll I found The blown one. Helped out hundreds over the years with that one. The look on theirs faces when I would tell them no charge was priceless. Plus they were back on raod with no wait. My service manger would get frustrated at times when I would plug tire with nails in them or start pulling apart dash in service isle, but my CSI was impressive and I had alot of repeat customers. That is the name of the game.

[Scott K]

The only thing with spraying lube on a stuck, or gummed up door ajar switch is, it will be back. Most of the causes of them sticking is when the customer drives on gravel roads the dust sticks to the switch and the switch sticks in. By spraying lube on it it may work the dirty gummy stuff off of the switch but now the dust just has some nice fresh oil to stick to!

[Shack]

I hear what you are saying. Out of the hundreds I have done, silicone just does not seem to free them up. It does not penitrate that good. Also I have found you need to use straw and bend tip up word at end and spray up into latch. Still, shut and open door about 10 times. I would say Silicone is a good preventer.

[unfrozen]

I've had a 1999 Windstar for a few years now but all the issues discussed in this thread have happened to me as well. "Door Ajar" light is on when no doors are ajar, only three of the five automatic door locks work, the other two must be done manually, the automatic transmission died in a gigantic plume of white smoke two years ago while on the way to E. Grand Forks from the Cities over Christmas..luckily we were able to coast almost to the top of the exit ramp in Sauk Centre and there was a tranny shop right there. The frustrating aspect is that the van only had 60,000 miles on it when the tranny blew. It had to be completely replaced. Needless to say, it is our last Windstar...