Air Exchanger

[marine_man]

I've got a house that has electric heat, and, based on the humidity levels and the condensation on the windows I'd say I have a bit of a humidity problem (only noticeable during the winter, but now's the time to plan, right?).

Anyway, after all the discussions about air exchangers this past winter I thought I'd start to look into it.

So, what's the best / a good brand to get? Who do you get them from?

Also, since I have electric heat I have no ductwork, although, I do have a good spot that I could put a duct to that would be pretty easy to install that could go upstairs (as I'm thinking I'd mount the exchager in the basement utility room).

Thanks for any help!

marine_man

[slotlimit]

I believe mine is called Renu-Air. I couldn't tell you if it is good or not. I do know it is the biggest waste of money in a new home there is. Why not save your money and buy a dehumindifier? It will save you mega dollars.

[sparcebag]

I'm for dehumidifier also, center or close to it main floor,temp. drain tube to basement drain.Works bettter costs less.Dont forget ceiling fans ran in reverse.

[bottomdweller]

Marineman, I have had infloor heat heat for five years and this winter I just installed a exchanger and humidifier.

Personally I like it. Not waking up stuffed up anymore

and getting fresh air in the house is beneficial for your health and the house.

I dont understand why you have high humidity problems especially during the winter when your humidity levels should decrease.

Thats why we installed a humidifier so we could raise the humidity level.

[marine_man]

I'm not certain either... our humidity level during the winter is ususally between 30 and 40%... pretty easily.

One possible reason might be that we have some old single pane widows with snap in's for the second pane that aren't real great. We're replacing a couple each year, but due to the condensation on those windows I think we're getting some humidity there.

marine_man

[sparcebag]

With single pane glazing you will always even with low humidity have the condensation.storm windows or not! just that small lack of insulator.Thats why double insulated and Argon filled are the cream of the crop.Now Days.

[htgeren]

I run into a lot of this for work. You're going to want your humidity levels around 30-40% in the winter. You go below that and you're going to wake up with stuffed, and sometimes bloody noses, dry skin, etc.

During the winter your house will not take on humidity from the exterior, cold air does not cary very much water at all. When they refer to humidity during the winter, for example if they say the (relative) humidty is 80% and the temp is only 0 degrees, thats the amount of water vapor the air is holding at that temp. That same air at indoor temps is about as dry as the mojave desert.

The condensation you have is almost entirely due to the single paned windows. Theres no thermal barrier between the outside air and the warmer indoor air so any amount of humidity in the house will condense on them (if you have drapes or curtains over them, that can also intensify the problem). You could try an air exchanger or dehumidifier but I doubt you are going to like spending much time in 0% humidity. My guess is you do not have a humidity problem, you have a window problem.

I'd say save your money for more windows. As for the air exchanger, unless your house is new and sealed tigher than a snappers a$$ your getting all fresh outdoor air you need from normal paths of air infiltration, wind loading, etc.

[Lindy Lee]

Replacing your windows will help with the current condensation problems, but every year we get calls from people that have replaced their windows or changed their siding and still have moister problems. If this happens the best thing you can do for an electric house with no ductwork is install a unit that is 90% efficent. Pull the exhaust air from the bath, laundry and kitchen, then install the supply air into the closets that way you will not feel any drafts created by the air movement. The jobs we have done this way work great. Depending on the style of house you have you can mount the unit in the basement run your main 2 pipes up through a closet to the attic then install a mini duct system up there for the supply and exhaust. Everthing in the attic needs to be sealed & insulated with a R8 duct wrap so you don't create more water problems in the attic. The best thing to do is contact your local heating and cooling contractor if you have more questions on this. Your indoor humidity should be around 35% in the winter. The only complaint I have ever get from people that we have installed HRV's for is that they wished they wouldn't have waited soo long to do it.

[Tenpoint]

We have one in our house, and we like it a lot. One thing our builder explained to us was the air exchanger helps to balance the pressure in the house, so if you have high humidity you are not forcing it into the wall. Moisture in the wall cavity will mold. I don't know if this is true or if it was a sales pitch, but the way he explained it it made sence. Our house is fairly new, so everything is sealed up tight. I don't think older homes that are not sealed up so tight would have the same problem though.

[slotlimit]

I also seen you said you have electric heat. If you thought your bill was high wait until your air exchanger is pumping out your warm air and bringing in cold air.

[harvey lee]

I had one put in when we built new a few years ago. I have been very happy with it and can really regulate the moisture in the house to what ever I like.

The brand I have is Lennox. My heat bill is also very reasonable.

[Lindy Lee]

Air exchangers are 80% to 90% eff so the cost to opperate is the same as running a 100w light bulb all the time. If you do not have a HRV ( heat recovery ventilator )or a ERV ( energy recovery ventilator ) then your costs could be higher. HRV's are usually used in heating climates and ERV's in cooling climates.

[slotlimit]

We built new 2 years ago and had to have one because of codes. But common sence will ell you by turning on your air exchanger it is costing you money. Let say it's 10 below and you heat your house to 70 degrees. When the air exchanger comes on you are pumping out 70 degree air and bringing in 10 below air. Sure on the exchange of air the air outside is heated up some but not even close to the 70 degree air you just pumped out. And just the opposite for the summer. The only time it would be economical time to run you air exchanger is when you are not using your heater or your air conditioner. People open their outside doors often enough to get all the air exchanged they need. This is what exactly the plumber who did our plumbing and heating told me. He only recommended running it for 1 year because of the moisture the cement is giving off in a new home. Sparcebag who has been in the construction business what seem like an ice age doesn't even recommend this guy getting one.

[slotlimit]

It may cost the same for the air exchanger that you descibe as it would to run a 100w bulb. By the way I would like to know where that information comes from? I'm not saying it's not true but by the time you pay to run the air exchanger and all the other items you descibed plus the extra loss heat or cool air in the summer, plus the cost to run your air con and your furnace it just seems to me that would be more then the cost to run a 100w light bulb. Let just say it's 90% eff. That would mean your furnace or air conditioner would have to run 10% longer then in a normal day. It costs more for your Air Conditioner to think about starting then it does to run a 100w light bulb much less for 10% longer in a day. But for this person the cost of that system (when not needed) plus the cost of instulation, plus the cost of running it all the time would never even come close as to just buying a dehumidifier and running that.