Header size for a load bearing wall?

[311Hemi]

Can anyone give me some thoughts...

I am in the process of installing a header over a 9' span in my house (removing a wall). I don't know for sure if it is a load bearing wall or not.

I have been told by a few people that 2-2x8's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched together (screwed & glued) would be fine.

What I do know is that this wall runs down the middle of the house (with the peak of the roof), with a distance of 10' from both the front and back sides of the house. The main floor "under this wall" has a beam of 3-2x8's held up by pillars everr 4' or so. This beam is pretty much directly under the wall I removed....which I am currently supporting by a false wall.

Here is the roof supports. Any way to tell if there are truss that are supporting the entire roof?

[CrappieAttitude]

I would probably go 2 2x10's at the minimum. You could also look into a LVL (micro-lam) type of header. I am not sure what the "technical" name for them is, but when I worked construction, these laminated headers were used quite a bit.

[sparcebag]

From the looks of it you have a older house because of 3 2x8 beam below floor,you have rafters not trusses,those braces are purlin braces meant for extra rafter support.And from where they sit(in the center)your wall below is bearing there weight and the ceiling joists.So I believe 2-2x10s would work,but to be sure and get an extra 1 inch head clearence,I would use 2 9&1/4 LVL (Laminent veneer lumber)You could also remove the top plate just 1 (there are two)and gain another 1&1/2 inch head space.(clearence from floor)Also make sure you have 2 trimmers on each side of new header or beam.Trimmer 2x4 cut to fit from floor plate to under new header as header support.

[311Hemi]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I may remove one top plate as suggested. I was planning on using two trimmers!

I will look into the LVL.

The house is from the early 50's.

[McGurk]

On a side note, what would be the best way to attach the (2) sandwiched LVL's to the remaining single top plate? I can't imagine toenailing from underneath being enough. Construction Adhesive or tackle it from the top (moving all insulation)?

[CrappieAttitude]

If you can get to it from the top, that would be your best bet. Adhesive could work too, but the more nails you can get into the top the better. Those LVL's are very tough, and toe-nailing isn't the easiest of tasks. Especially up into the single top-plate.

Get as many nails in that you want to tackle. If you are worried, put a double trimmer on each side to make it rest on a little stouter base. I think the hardest part you will have is getting the thing up there tight. With a guy on each end, you can get it up there close and then tap your trimmers into place. You want to make sure that your trimmers are snug, so they will hold it tight to your top-plate.

Good Luck!

CA

[sparcebag]

Code calls for 1 nail every 16"Off set and each end 6 nails do it. I'd nail from attic but you could drill and toe nail each side @ 32" O.C. If you do toenail do it under each ceiling joist.it wont bounce and feel rubbery.The king studs need 8 nails each side.

[McGurk]

Thanks guys.

[311Hemi]

Header is up and installed...thanks guys!

[reddog]

If the beam is exposed below the wall that you tore our , you should check and make sure you have transferred the load of the king studs and trimmers to the beam below.

If you dont check, then the load transfer may fall in between the floor joists, and be carried by only the sub floor which will not be enough. Complete the load paths to the beam below. It may be as simple as adding some short framing members the height of the floor joist system and sister them to the josits till the load is transferred to the beam below.