96 xcr 600 sp rear suspension way too soft...help!

[crappace]

This is a new sled to my girlfriend and it seems really soft in the rear. I rode it for 20 miles this weekend too and it bottoms out way to easy. I took a look under there and everything seems to be in the right spots. The "blocks" are in the softest positions but I still don’t think it should hit bottom so easy. I want to try changing the blocks to stiffer positions but am not sure how to do it...do you just get a wrench on it and turn?? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

[trackerbrent]

You can turn those rectangle blocks for the springs with a 13/16" socket or wrench. If that does not work get your shocks rebuilt, I think they are Fox shocks on the rear of that machine. Only about $20 a shock to get that done. The front shock of your rear suspension is a coil over, which may also be adjustable. I can not remember on a 96 XCR if it is. I know it is on the Xtra 10 suspension. You just screw it up so the spring is tighter, mine you can do by hand if the suspension is not compressed at all, on a stand. It is a good idea to pull your rear suspension every year to check component damage and get those slides replaced. If turning those blocks, tightening the front spring and rebuilding the shocks does not work, you can always get heavier torsion springs.

[crappace]

With the 13/16 socket turing the blocks...should the sled be up in the air or on the ground and do you try and release tension in any way or just twist away?

Thanks

[hunterlaker]

sounds like the shocks need to be rebuilt call Kyle avid suspensions he did mine and it sloved the same problem, you will have to take out the skid to remove the shocks. he will have them back to you in no time

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[Meat-Run]

Hunterlaker,

thanks for that link/tip. They are right in my back yard.

mr

[crappace]

I moved the blocks to the tightest position ( bolt away from the spring ) and it helped but now I want to try and tighten the shocks. Is it clock wise to tighten? I can see where to put the shock wrench on the front but the rear looks really hard to get to. Can it be done with them on the sled still? Thanks

[nitroant]

Cost to rebuild a shock the right way with new seals, fluid ect. is about $50 per shock out of the sled, it will be more if they have to take them out for you. They can be a real bear to get out of some sleds.

[Reynolds]

If you end up taking the skid out of the sled make sure that you do not forget to put the lock washers on the bolts that mount the skid to the sled itself. I had the same sled a couple of years back and forgot to do that. Long story short, the bolts worked themselves out and the track rubbed against the tunnel which ended up ruining the track.

[hunterlaker]

as long as you have the skid out , you should put new bearings in the wheels, they are only 5 bucks each, it makes a big diff, put new slides on too. mfg supply has everything you need

[crappace]

From the sounds of it getting the skid out is not too tough...is there a quick step by step on the net somewhere on it? The springs in there sorta look dangerous if you dont know what you are doing. Thanks

[Black_Bay]

Quote:

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From the sounds of it getting the skid out is not too tough...is there a quick step by step on the net somewhere on it? The springs in there sorta look dangerous if you dont know what you are doing. Thanks

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All you'll need is a track stand of some sort, 2 9/16" wrenches, a 9/16" socket & ratchet and a beer or two if you desire. If you have access to air tools it goes faster. First loosen the rear axle. Wait first open beer then loosen rear axle. You'll have to hold a wrench on one side of the axle while you loosen the other. Just loosen these don't take them out. Next loosen the track tensioning bolts so the axle can slide forwards. Now make sure the springs are on the softest setting and then lift the long leg off the perch. If I remember right these are behind an idler wheel on that year. There's some tension but not enough to worry about them hurting you. Rotate the spring around to the back on the outside of the track. Next come the rear skid bolts on the tunnel. There's a straight shaft that these screw into like the rear axle so you may need to hold both sides. Some times they are a bear to get both out because the shaft turns, so you may have to play around getting each one loose. The front skid bolts are done the same as the rear. It helps to put something under the front of the skid so it doesn't just fall. The shafts are tough but they are aluminum so they can strip out just be careful. Next comes a little wrestling with the skid to get it out of the track. I like to lift the rear of the sled higher at this point. It gives you a bit more room. I pull the skid out front first.

[hunterlaker]

Its easy to get the skid out, I lift it high..put a winch up to the rafters of the garage and pull it up high, it took me about a half hour to remove it, it will also help a ton when you put it back in, you will be able to line everything up alot easier.while its out you should replace all the worn parts and paint it up nice, oh, replace any clogged grease zerts too, they are cheap, the wheel bearings take about 3 minutes to put new ones in, I guarentee some need to be replaced