Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

forced air or not?


fishingguy

Recommended Posts

I am in the proccess of pricing out shell only fish houses and finish the inside myself. I have a few questions on direct vent furnaces or heaters. Are the forced air units the way to go? How long does a good battery last with these heaters? I like the idea of forced air but am concerned about battery life. They do not light or heat without battery power. And that is a concern.

So I'm leaning towards getting a non-forced air unit (needing no battery to run) and use computer, or other type fans to circulate air. I know they will never move as much air, but they also use very little juice. What are your opinions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love my forced air.

It keeps a nice even heat throughout my shack.

I usually run my honda gen almost full time but I have been over real shallow water and opted not to use it and I had no problems running lights radio and furnace all weekend on 2 deep cycles.

Anyone and everyone who has been in my shack has commented on how evenly heated and comfortable it was. I would never go back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my g/f just won an ice castle at eelpout and it has forced air, i have no problem running the lights and the heater off of a deep cycle for 2-3 days, if i was gonna go on a longer trip i would bring either a second battery or a generator. but like was said before, it stays the same temp top to bottom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a force air also and i love it. If you plan on putting in carpet the forced air will keep it nice and dry within an hour or two of drilling holes. the other nice thing is you can mount the forced air units right on the floor of your fish house, this helps keep heat down on the floor and closer to the holes. One thing i almost forgot it has electronic ignition so you dont have to light anything, just turn propane on and click the thermostat to on, saves on time lighting a pilot in the freezing cold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure you get opinions on both sides but I can tell you from owner experience with both what I think. Personal preference like in everything smile.gif

In the past I have had numerous direct vent Empires which you see alot of . I can count on one hand how many times I actually needed to turn on a fan each year with any of the Empires. I had rather nice houses that were built well and with insulated floors. I also like the fact it heats without a blower blasting and you can move air with a 12V fan if ever needed. This year I purchased a small 6 X 8 aluminum and insulated with a slide out which has a Atwood/Suburban direct vent forced air rv furnace in it. While the battery operation is a issue and the ignition I had no problems with it all year. That said I would myself rather have the Empires hands down. I did not enjoy the loud fan blasting all the time, and I found that without the furnace ignited and blower running the temp dropped in a hurry in a small 6 X 8 with a 18,000 btu unit. Seemed like the thing had to run all the time and it was annoying to me plus the added power needed.I was in a 16' Ice Castle on Red Lake with one like mine and on my end of the house the air moving was not even warm by the time it reached me.

If you could still get heat without the blower constant it would be ok. The Empire was silent/constant heat and was extremely comfortable heat 90% of the time without any fan needed. They have blower options for them as well but I found I hardly never needed one so I just mounted a 12V fan above the furnace to move air when and if needed. The constant moving of the air, the noise, and power requirement I did not enjoy this year. I use to leave the thermostat on low on the Empire when I was gone so I could return to a warm house. That is not a option with the forced air and power being wasted without being in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think if you want to be as comfortable as your home living room... forced air by far. every thing from top to bottom can be very moderate. you can make it just like your home f/a system pulling return air from where you want, and putting the reheated air back where you need it. new blower models are getting much better, very quiet and efficient.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add to this, I cut a hole in the bottom of the heater and used that same computer fan and mounted it over the hole I cut out and wired in a thermal switch, which you can get at any propane shop that carries Empire heaters.

What I accomplished with this is, when the fire box gets hot it turns on the fan drawing cold floor air into the heater and forces it up, across the fire box and out the front of the heater. Then when the burner shuts off and the fire box cools it shuts off.

I save power by not running the fan all the time and the computer fan draws nil anyway. I also mounted a 6" bus fan, available at any NAPA store, and wired it to that same thermal switch. Just don't skimp on the bus fan simpley because of price. The cheaper plastic fans make a lot of noise and like to crack when they get cold, so spend the $35.00 and get a good metal fan like in the pictures.

Also don't go too low on the BTU's. I had a 10,000 at first and it took too long to heat up and run too often. Also since the 10,000 was running so often the control valve was icing up and shutting down when it got cold making for a rude 3am awakening. This heater is a 15,000 and it was a night and day difference from the 10,000 in heating time and fuel usage. Empire heaters are designed to be used in a regular home with 2x4 or 2x6 studs with more insulation then in a fish house, thus their recommendation of a 120 square foot room is not accurate when appling it to a fish house.

I get nice even heat from top to bottom, the floor dries up very quickly, the holes stay open all night and the guy on the top bunk doesn't need to sleep in the nude which can get a litle scary in a confined space. I can easily run for 3-4 days on 2 good deep cycles running the lights, TV, radio, and Vexilar and 20# of propane.

The only thing I would do differently is to put a larger computer fan in the heater, like say a 6" from a server.

here are the pictures.

heater.jpg

2001.jpg

Fan.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had houses with both. While I love the evenly distributed heat provided by the force air, I don't like the fact that you're out of heat if you run out of battery power even more. If I were to choose, I'd probably choose a wall vent model without force air and install 12 volt fans to circulate the air separately. That way if your batteries run out, you'll still have a heat source should you choose to "rough it" wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.