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Insulation for Portables


scaup

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Buzbunni-- It is a 12 volt computer fan. I got this at work but saw the same thing at Radio Shack for $20. I've got a rheostat wired up for this one and just need to get it mounted in the Yukon.You need something to control the speed since this thing is pretty high output. I'm hoping that between the reflectix and the fan I can keep my front door from turning into 2" of frost after 24 hours out on URL. grin.gif

portablemod11806003nc8.jpg

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Part two... I get so many hints and tips from the good folks at FM that I am glad to finally return my own original(I think) for once. I picked up the mounts for the fan at ace hardware. They are broom holders that you screw to the wall. I used the dremel tool to do a little grooving in the plastic of the fan and get a flat fit. The fans have threaded inserts in each corner. You can drill a hole in the broom holders and put a machine screw through into the inserts. I placed a nut on the other side too. It is easy to strip out the inserts. I think these would work well for some lights too. You can tilt the fan in the direction you need and it stays put. Easy to snap off for moving the shack to the next spot.

portablemod11806004xi8.jpg

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Here are a couple pictures for the person that wanted to see the insulation folded up. Bobby-O, the Kwikflip III is a flip-over shelter. The first two pictures show the insulation before the last pole is folded down. You can see how the insulation folds up nicely.

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I don't know if the insulation would affect sight fishing. With my windows covered, the shack is pretty dark, but I don't have a big hole open for spearing.

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Finally got a couple hours of free time to finish up on the Yukon install. I was a little disappointed that I could work out in the garage with just a t-shirt on but at least I was working on the ice fishing equipment. I was really impressed with how well this did fold up with the fabric. I did the same as Caster (thank you) and ran the tent velcro through slots I cut in the insulation. I also used the reflectix tape at any cut I made(on both sides) to keep the stuff from ripping out in the future. I'm going to start some modifications in the sled and hopefully will be posting some pics in the portable modification thread as I go

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That little bit of silver on top was all that was exposed after folding it down.

portablemod11806008gh7.jpg

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Icemac 33, was waiting for someone with a clam to post a picture. I have a voyager and was wondering how I would get the pieces to stick to the shelter on the back and front. More importantly how do I keep it stuck to the back of my voyager so it doesn't flop around, is it made with a sticky backing on it? or will this require some experimentation? I am also looking at beginning a modification soon too. Hopefully will have it done during Thanksgiving break. how many more weeks until Ice returns...

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I'v never used mine for a traplink yet.Its hard to see in the picture but you can still get at the zipper easily enough to open the back up. I attached it to the back wall with the two velcro straps that hold the window down. They are also placed through slits. I am going to attach two pieces of velcro to the Reflectix at these points to hold it down anytime the window is up. I'm also going to put a piece of velcro to match up where the insulation(when rolled up) on the back wall meets the piece of velcro that is part of the tent above the window. I will then be able to roll that back flap up whenever I want more air or want to attach a trap-link. Does that make sense? I'll take another pic when I get that placed.Probably on Thursday night. It really increased the output of those lights. You can actually see the reflection of the lights in the Reflectix.I was going to add another string but don't think I'll need them now. The insulation already paid for itself. smile.gif

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Quote:

It really increased the output of those lights


so what you're saying is that with my two strings of rope light I would be able to get a suntan? cool.gif

I didn't realize that you'd roll the rear flap of relfectix up to get at the rear door; that would definitely work... Thanks for the response. It's definitely nice to see people out there with the same equipment I run doing the same mods that I'm working on. Nice to see what works and what doesn't when your head is full of different ideas.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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