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Roller or Bunk trailer?


big musk411

Question

Due to some extenuating circumstances at the boat ramp this weekend, I have found myself in the market for a new boat trailer. I have a 16.5 ft Alumacraft Lunker V16. My original trailer was a shorelander with rollers. I had never had any problems and thought it was a good trailer[untill this weekend crazy.gif]. My question is what would be the benifit of a bunk trailer as opposed to roller? Ease of trailering? Price?

Here is what happend.

I went to launch my boat at the ramp near my cabin on upper whitefish lake. I have launched the boat ther 50+ times. I put the boat in and it slides off the trailer. I go to pull it out and skid the tires, it won't move. I get out and look and can't see anything as its about 5-6ft deep and very weedey. So I figure back it in a little furthur and then pull it out. Well, I go it out. The right tire must have been caught off the side of the ramp. I bent the axel and the frame of the trailer. I had it backed fairly straight in, a bit to the left side even. I don't understand how it could have gotten caught. Not sure if it is the low water or elevated hitch on my new tow vehicle[Nissan Titan]?

Also any one have any recommendations as far as dealers go?

Thanks!

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I have never owned a bunk trailer but I think your choice would depend greatly on how you use it. Do you frequent boat launches that are consistently shallow? If so, a bunk trailer could be a problem as you do need to submerge the bunks. I think in other posts there have been good arguments made for both and if memory serves me, power-loaders tend to prefer bunks. For example, if you powerload at the ramp I was on last night, you would struggle with rollers because the boat would tend to roll back off unless you kept the motor engaged long enough to hook up the front. I saw a guy experiencing this problem. It was a steep launch. I actually had trouble launghing because I couldn't release the winch line without holding the boat on the trailer. Bunks would have been much better in this situation.

It seems both have their merits.

Bob

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
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