To chemlawn or not to chemlawn.

[setterguy]

At my old house I bought an existing home that had some serious weed problems. I hired chemlawn to spray for weeds but found that it didn't seem to do any good. Now at my new place I have new sod and my yard is fairly weed free, but do get the occasional intruder from a neighbors yard. Would hiring a company to do weed control be worth it or would spot treating the areas with a weed b gone product be better? Any tips are appreciated.

[harvey lee]

I treat my lawn with a product called Mec-amine 2-4d.It pretty much takes care of all your broadleaf problems.One thing to remember when you mix up your water and chemical is to cut the rate some if you are putting it in a hand sprayer.It always seems to get a little to much on when you spot spray with a hand sprayer as you might hold it for a second to long.You can purchase a gallon for approx 30 dollars and it will last for years.When I use this chemical with a pull type sprayer it does a wonderfull job.If like I said you use a hand sprayer cut the rate by 30%.It will work good.

[ChosenOne]

I have an existing lawn as well I found it better to just make a mental note of the weeds when mowing and then do a boarder patrol as well with Weed b gone afterwards, I have a thick healthy weed free lawn.

Worked for me

[harvey lee]

ChosenOne

Welcome to Fishing Mn and the Lawn&Garden forum.We look forward to your posts.Again Welcome.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Setterguy -

If you want to do the work yourself, it's really a no brainer, once you know what you're doing.

If you DON'T want to do the work yourself, hire a company other than ChemLawn.

There's a couple other companies out here as well. Williams Services does that for you, or if you're more towards the Scandia side as opposed to Columbus township side of Forest Lake, Jericho Tree and Turf will take care of that for you as well.

You can use a product such as weed-b-gone, or others, but I'd recommend going to Lesco, down by Sam's Club, and getting a gallon of "Momentum FX2".

You can mix it in a little spot sprayer that you'd get at Northern / Menards / Wal-Mart and just walk your property inbetween mowings and spray the broadleaf weeds.

{Please read forum policy before posting again,Thanks}

[G_man]

I think Chemlawn is a waste of money also. When I bought my house several years ago, I used them and I really had a hard time seeing any benefits. I think it is much more effective to do the work yourself. I haven't found anything that works better than Scott's products. Its more expensive but it works better for me.

[Abrams]

Scotts 3x a year: once in the spring, mid-summer and late fall. I also pull/spray weeds after mowing. I had a company spray the first year I lived in my house. They charged me around $200, doing it my self is much cheaper and better.

[Eckie]

2-4D has been the answer to all my broadleaf problems. 2-3 times a year using the 4 wheeler and a pull sprayer.

[katoguy]

2-4D should only be used on lawns max of 2 times per year (per all the instructions I have read). Correct?

[LwnmwnMan2]

That's the way everything that I've used is.

The stuff that I recommeded earlier, it's about $60 / gallon, but if you're going to use it in a wand sprayer, you mix 1.5 ounces per gallon of water.

If you're going to use it in a pull behind sprayer, you mix it at 1.5 ounces per 1000 sq ft.

A gallon will probably last you 2-3 years.

[Powerstroke]

I agree that the decision is easy if you don't want to do the work. If you really have very few weeds and don't mind doing the work then go buy a spot sprayer and some braodleaf herbicide and go to town.

Spot treating is ntoa huge deal cause you only hit small spots. If you do treat with a broadcast apraying across the entire yard or over large areas, then you should only use a 2-4D product twice a year. Otherwise the active ingredients begin to store in the soil and can also be absorbed by your trees and damage them.

Oh yeah and whatever you do, don't use Trugreen/Chemlawn. We called them the "splash and dash". Their guys get paid commissions on their productivity and most college kids are in it for the money and don't care if you have stripes or weeds in your lawn.

[setterguy]

I appreciate the replies, my other question is this, does a company ( a good one) that sprays for weeds do anynthing for prevention or is it just a matter of treating a problem when they arise. This is my motivation more than anything is to try and prevent the weeds from coming in the first place. I have no problem spot spraying the weeds when they do pop up, just trying to get ahead of them while the yard is still new.

[harvey lee]

I have found over the years with my lawn that the best prevention for weeds is to get your lawn as thick as possible.Seems the weeds have a hard time getting through.One thing you can do for crab grass is to do your crab grass control in the spring when you fertilize.I have not had to use any broadleaf killer this year.

[Powerstroke]

I totally agree with harvey. Proper cultural practices will foster a healthy lawn and nothing prevents weeds better than a strong healthy lawn.

You will always get a few dandilions just cause of the way they are, but most weeds can't get started ina thick green lawn.

[LwnmwnMan2]

There's truth in what the last 2 guys have said. Mow your grass around 3" tall. Don't cut it any shorter.

The thicker the lawn, the better the prevention.

As far as a prevention of broadleaf weeds, some products SAY they do, but in reality I haven't found any yet, except for certain products that you can use in your planting areas which keep the weeds down there, however they also keep the grass away, so that's not the best to use on your lawn.

There's something of a fine line though with a thick lush lawn, because too thick, then you're prone to disease as well, because the lawn can retain moisture too well.