Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Quak Grass???


joe_stack20

Recommended Posts

I am starting to see the signs of quak grass in my yard....this isnt making me very happy...and this heat and not mowing the yard....only seems to improve the growth of this type of grass...is there anything i can do to treat this before it gets out of control...my goal is to have the nicest looking lawn in the neighborhood....and this is dwindling my goal. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Joe,

First you want to make sure that the grass you are seeing is in fact quack grass. Quack is a perennial, and should have been present all spring (as soon as the snow melts). There is nothing that kills quack that will not kill your grass. Quack grows faster than the grass, and grows as a single blade, instead of a clump. You also cannot pull it out because of it's large runner roots (it will break). It also has a nice round stem.

Crabrass is just starting to become visible (at least in the last 2-3 weeks). It grows in a clump, and has a flat stem. When crabgrass is young it is light green and grows upright, as it matures it starts to lay flat turning a dark green with purple highlights low on the stem. When the ground is moist, it pulls very easily. There are liquid sprays that you can use on crabgrass that will not hurt your grass, although the easiest control is in the spring with a preventer after your first mowing. Good Luck!! If you do have quack, I can give you some tips on some control (it is a bit tedious)!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all of your help guys...I was told by my neighbor lady )who was the wife of a farmer for many years) that it was quack grass. but i am not so sure that it is...it grows in more of a clump..and has become more visible in the past weeks. I will see what i can do!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

People very frequently confuse quack and crab grasses cause they've never learned the difference. They know that neither is desireable in a lawn and thats about it.

The responses you've received are true. If its quack, then you need round-up. If it is crab, then there are some post-emergent products out there that work really well. Round-up will work here also, but you could use a different product that may not cause damage to the rest of your lawn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For crab grass,I use a fertilizer with pre emergence crab grass controller in it.I apply it in the spring and the time frame is when the lilacs start to blossom.This has worked very well for me.I dont know the brand name as I buy it made from a local fert. plant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with lwn. The Drive is the only post-emerg. product I've ever used cause its always done the job. Lesco carries it. Its not cheap, but it can pay for itself if you're crazy about your lawn.

Harvey is correct, the best way to "prevent" is with the PRE-emergent treatment in the spring. This will take care of more than 90% of the crabgrass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For pre-emergent, use Dimension. It has both pre, and SOME post emergent control of crabgrass, but only if you get it on the crabgrass before it's 3" tall.

It's what I use on my commercial properties in the spring, since the areas around sidewalks, along buildings, and parking lots / drives heat up before the rest of the property, therefore you have a greater chance of some already sprouting in those areas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.