new boat floor

[Big G]

Stuck in a delima......

I have a 15' Forester tri-hull, that the floor is rotted. So, I pulled out the old wood and cut away the fiberglass overlay. I cut the glass floor covering up flush with the inner gunnel wall.

Make sense so far?

So, here is my problem.

The floor section I need to replace is 11' long. And it ranges from 56" to 62" wide (56 at the transom, 62 up towards the front)

The existing floor was done with a single sheet layed in the center, back to the transom, with filler stips along each side. The floor has a "sill" along each side that is about 12" wide. The existing floor was glued (glass resin) to the center beam under the floor and to the side "sill". The "filler strips" were also glued.

The section up front was glasses to the sides and is not a problem.........

My problem is what do you recommend that I do to replace the floor. Do the same thing, with the filler strips on the sides? This will take 2 sheets of plywood to do the back section, with another sheet up front (that has to be cut-to-fit) Or, would you take 3 sheets of plywood and cut them to the length of the transom width and lay 3 pieces that way???? (sideways)

I just don't know if I like the "center" sheet of wood, with 2 filler strips on the sides. On the sides, the filler will be glued, along with the primary sheet to the boat floor (stringers).

Any advice????

Also, the existing floor was 1/2" plywood. I have 3/4" plywood at home. Is there any reason not to use the 3/4" plywood????

[cheesehead]

install the new plywood in the same manner as the original floor was it could be part of the structural design of your boat. I would avoid using the 3/4" plywood as your boat is heavy enough to begin with. why add extra weight.
Also use epoxy resin it sticks to wood 100+ times better than polyester. Use regular exterior plywood and coat all sides of the plywood with epoxy befor installing it and you will not have any future rot problems.

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Say cheese

[Steve Bakken]

While you have everything apart, this would be a good time to check the wood in your stringers. Most of the time they're ok, but occasionally we've had a boat in the shop for a new floor and when we got everything apart the stringers back by the transom were rotten. It's easier to deal with them now than when everything's been put back together.

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Steve @ Bakken's Boat Shop www.bakkensboatshop.com

[Big G]

Stuck in a delima......

I have a 15' Forester tri-hull, that the floor is rotted. So, I pulled out the old wood and cut away the fiberglass overlay. I cut the glass floor covering up flush with the inner gunnel wall.

Make sense so far?

So, here is my problem.

The floor section I need to replace is 11' long. And it ranges from 56" to 62" wide (56 at the transom, 62 up towards the front)

The existing floor was done with a single sheet layed in the center, back to the transom, with filler stips along each side. The floor has a "sill" along each side that is about 12" wide. The existing floor was glued (glass resin) to the center beam under the floor and to the side "sill". The "filler strips" were also glued.

The section up front was glasses to the sides and is not a problem.........

My problem is what do you recommend that I do to replace the floor. Do the same thing, with the filler strips on the sides? This will take 2 sheets of plywood to do the back section, with another sheet up front (that has to be cut-to-fit) Or, would you take 3 sheets of plywood and cut them to the length of the transom width and lay 3 pieces that way???? (sideways)

I just don't know if I like the "center" sheet of wood, with 2 filler strips on the sides. On the sides, the filler will be glued, along with the primary sheet to the boat floor (stringers).

Any advice????

Also, the existing floor was 1/2" plywood. I have 3/4" plywood at home. Is there any reason not to use the 3/4" plywood????

[Big G]

OK;

So, I'll put the wood back in the same manner I took it out.

As for the extra weight. Sounds good, I'll stick with the 1/2". It is just that I have all the 3/4" plywood that I can get my hands on and figured I would save a few bucks, plus make things a little stonger.

Now, for the stingers. My boat has 1 big stringer down the middle. It looks like a big fiberglass beam. Is this a wood beam, encased in glass??? How would I "open" this up??? It sure feels solid, as I have been walking this thing while I took out the old floor. I'm 300lbs and this beam is solid. No give......

My boat seems to be fairly solid.

Thanks for all the advice........

[Valv]

One way to check wood under fiberglass is to use a sharp point and poke through glass.

If it goes through easily, chances are your wood is rotten, otherwise you should be fine.

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Val Vignati

www.kvesurplus.com
[email protected]

[cheesehead]

While your at it consider adding some floatation foam under the flooring.

------------------
Say cheese

[Giant_Jackpot]

Don't forget to check for Jimmy Hoffa's body. You never know...........

[Big G]

Considering I'm not a big union fan.......I won't look tooooo hard.