How I did the Floor in my 14 footer.

[RuKiddingMe]

I just finished the floor in my 14 footer and thought I would tell how I did it. Maybe give a do-it-yourself-er some ideas.

I recently put a floor in the front and back of my 14’ Aluminum Mirro Craft. Here’s how I did it.

In the back I removed the bench seat. My boat has ribs inside all the way up the boat, this helped for anchoring the floor structure without going through the hull. I took some 2x8 ‘s and cut them to width and then shaved accordingly to match the curve of the boat to sit on top of each rib. Then down the center, length wise I notched out a chunk in each 4x8 to place a 2x2 across the top to keep them tipping over. I then traced out a floor plan in cardboard as a template for cutting out ½ inch plywood (I used ½ inch to keep the weight down). With the 2x8 secured for each rib, I believe I got the structure back that I lost removing the seat.

I left the middle seat in for structure purposes.

In the front I removed the front bench seat and the little tiny triangle in the very front. Leveled the boat up the way it would sit if it were in the water and filled it with water and traced on each rib a level line to work with. In the front weight was a big concern with a bow mount trolling motor and a battery to run it. I found a place online called McMaster Carr and started browsing their site and found some Aluminum “T” bar. The “T” bar was 1 ½ inch across the top with a 2 inch drop on the bottom. I figured this stuff would be great, structurally sound and easy to work with. I cut 3 short (the ribs are 14 inch apart and the pieces were 16 inches) lengths to go from rib to rib on each side leaving an inch or 2 over hang on from the ribs. Rather then one to go the whole way up each side, because of how to boat tapers to the front. Each piece that I had cut I took a pliers to bend the drop down of the “T” bar to an angle so the top would sit level. I then drill pilot holes through the drop down on the “T” bar and through the rib and used self taping stainless screws to anchor it in place. For the cross members I again used the “T” bar and placed 2 across on each of the 3 going up the side of the boat, anchored them on each side with self tapping stainless screws. I again traced out a template in cardboard for the flooring made sure everything fit the way I wanted it too and cut out the ½ plywood.

I covered the back section and the front section with all purpose outdoor carpeting from Menards or Home Depot and used flooring adhesive to keep it in place.

All-n-all my project turned out just like I wanted. One word of advise with a 14 foot boat make sure you keep the floor low enough so you have stability on the water, to high and it will be as stable as a canoe…

[bkft]

Hey RuKiddingMe,
Sounds like you did a great job. Can you post any pictures? I'm curious because I'm thinking of removing the middle bench in my alumacraft, but worried about the impact to the structural integrity of the boat. Any suggestions?

[RuKiddingMe]

I can post some pics only problem is they will be of the finished product, I kept forgetting the camera for pics along the way.

I would think that if you left your rear and front bench in you shouldn't have a problem with removing the middle, all the better if you put a floor in too.

RU

[RuKiddingMe]

augernaut, I just used standard BC exterior plywood in 1/2 inch, no treating just the carpet over the top. Luckily I didn't have to worry holes in the hull from removing the benches. They were attached with brackets and I just left those lone in case one day I decide to put them back in. I haven't done anything with the floatation replacement yet, I'm still trying to come up with something. I've had it out a couple times and didn't notice it being any less boyant, so I'm not sure where to go with that.

RU

[augernaut]

RU - post some pics, I'd love to see how your boat turned out! I'm constantly scoping people's boats, trying to come up with cool ideas for mine. I like your description of the aluminum stock in the front end - I'm thinking of the same sort of thing.

[RuKiddingMe]

Augernaut, here is a pciture of the stuff I used.

I'll see what I can do about boat pics.

RU

[This message has been edited by RuKiddingMe (edited 06-23-2004).]

[augernaut]

Sounds like you did a nice job. I'm planning for my 14' Starcraft right now. I'm going to remove the center bench, put in a flat floor and probably a casting deck up front.

There shouldn't be any structural issues if you remove the center bench and reinforce the gunwales with a taller structure built on top of the floor - for example a livewell or storage compartment.

On my boat, I'm going to keep the front seat in and use it as a support for the casting deck. The back seat, I'm not sure about, I might take it out and extend my storage compartments to keep the structural integrity in the back as well. Of course, then you have to build a spot for the gas tank, battery, etc.

RU - what kind of plywood did you use, treated, BC exterior, marine? Did you coat or encapsulate it? How did you treat the rivet holes after you took the seats out? Also, what did you use for flotation to make up for the styrofoam that was removed with the seats?

[Farley]

RU-
Thanks for the post. Last fall I tore apart my 14' starcraft. The guy who had it before me took out all the benches and just had 2 pieces of alum. angle (one about 1.5 feet from the back of the boat, the other right where the boat starts to curve inward in the front) for bracing. The floor was starting to rot so I tore everything out and am going to put in a new floor and rewire. The one thing I wasnt sure about was how to support the plywood floor. My boat also has the groove all the way up the boat and I know I want to use that, but I might end up stealing your idea of using studs and cutting the angle in them. Also will build a rod storage compartment to help brace the wall all the way from back to front on the one side. There are a bunch of holes on the walls from where the beches used to be, I'm not sure how to deal with these but will cross that bridge when I get there. I'd like to see some pics of the finished product.

[Surface Tension]

RU You won't notice any difference in buoyancy till you capsize the boat, the flotation is intended to keep your boat afloat in the event you ever capsize.

[This message has been edited by Surface Tension (edited 06-26-2004).]

[Lost]

boyancy? try that expanding insulation foam?