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Zercom Clearwater Pro Transducer Connector PIN Configuration


BassPatrol

Question

Hi. I have a perfectly working Zercom Clearwater Pro (200khz) and am trying to convert either a Vexilar or Marcum 200khz Iceducer to use with it for ice fishing. Does anyone know the wiring configuration of the PIN connector for the transducer or know of a HSOforum I can find this information on? Fishlectronics told me I could convert a new transducer if I knew what the wiring configuration was. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Lee (BassPatrol)

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Wouldn't it be easier to just use the Zercom iceducer? I purchased one brand new last year from Humminbird for around $40 delivered to my door. Give them a call, or maybe fishing electronics has one in stock. I've even seen them on hsolist.

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I would try calling (Contact US Regarding This Word) again. When I talked to them about all the transducers I had the guy I spoke with told me exactly which wires to hook up. Unfortunately that was over a year ago and it has long since left my memory.

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I also have a pro that I've gone to only using on my boat now. I know for ice fishing, the transducer on a stick thing get's to be a pain, especially when the ice thickens. The self alligning transducers (SAT) are the way to go and I would be surprised if hummingbird made any SAT's to fit the pro. I know they did for the classics and such but I don't think they did for the pro.

I question though whether (Contact US Regarding This Word) is trying to make it a bigger deal than it is to just splice your existing transducer connector end to a new transducer. Of course it would mean cutting the end foot or two off your pro's cable and the same thing on a new SAT transducer cable. I've done this myself with other transducers and it works fine as long as you get a good connection and get a good wrap of electrical tape to avoid any grounding out of the wires. I don't know why the pro's transducer would be any different.

I would have done this myself with my pro but decided to go with the pro on the back of the boat and got a new LX-3 for ice fishing because I wanted the color. You can't beat the pro for showing a clear, detailed picture though so if color isn't a big deal, change your pro around to work with the SAT.

Good luck,

ccarlson

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I use a pro and I modified the ice ducer to work more properly. I dont know what they were thinking mounting the cable off center and putting a round level in the center.. if they would have put the cable there.. a level would be obsolete one would think?

Anyway...

All I did was get a short section of plumbers strap(metal strap with holes in it) and bent it in a U shape. I used electrical tape to tape it to the transducer. I cut a slot with a side cutter(wire cutter) on the strap to get the transducer cable into the hole on center above the ducer.

Now the cable is on center, and it has a low ceter of gravity so it hangs strait... No float, no excessive hardware... just toss it down the hole to the bottom of the ice and it hangs strait at the bottom edge of the hole(out of the way).

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That Guy,

I had forgotten that I tried something similar the last year I used my pro for ice fishing but your design is much better. I tried a doll rod, hose clamp and electrical tape to make a SAT out of it. It wouldn't level quite right and so it never picked up my jigs as good.

With your idea, the metal strap could easily be adjusted to straighten the transducer by just giving it a little bend as needed.

Great idea. That is what I would do before I tried splicing.

ccarlson

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Are you sure that your Clearwater pro does'nt run a 150khz transducer? I just checked the old one I have here and it is a 150, thats why it's 'easy' on other sonars. Maybe they made 200khz units too though?

fiskyknut

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CC, you should see the custom Ice Box that "That Guy" built for his Zercom it's made out of wood with directional lights on each side with seperate off/on switch for each light and a battery compartment, and it has a solid BIG handle, he even mitered some of the cuts.

I'll see if I can get picture next time we hook up. cool.gif

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The majority of the pro's were 200 khz but there were a few 150 khz made. They are hard to come by and many like them for the reduced interference with other units.

Sounds like "That Guy" has some great custom rigging ideas.

ccarlson

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Thanks for all the replies. I did email Humminbird regarding the wiring configuration but have yet to receive a response. I checked the Humminbird HSOforum and Googled to see if any one carried the SAT transducers but they are no longer available. I know I should have bought one from the Humminbird HSOforum but I didn't have this unit yet.

Fisher Ed,

Would you perhaps have a spare SAT transducer laying around that you could sell?

Thanks,

Lee

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Sorry Fisky & BP but all my SAT's are long gone. Just a couple pucks for the Pro's left. I have never seen a SAT for the Pro's and can't confirm if they were ever available. I know the F E shop in Columbia Heights makes SAT's for Zercoms and the shop by the same name in Nisswa can possibly do the same. Hope you guys can make something work because no matter what others say, these are decent little units.

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Hi, new member to this site, I also own a Clearwater Pro. Are you looking to have a transducer that has a float and get rid of your bubble level. What degree transducer do you need? My sonar is a 150hz. but I think I have a new 200hz still in the bag. I think its a 20 degree. Also could someone please post or if I could find out how to contact Fish Electronics. What state are they in? I would like to talk to them about a SAT for my unit. Thanks.

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Fish Whisperer,

Here's the info you need on Fish-Lectronics

Fish-Lectronics

5003 University Ave NE

Minneapolis, MN 55421

763-571-1277

I checked everywhere for a SAT for my Zercom Clearwater Pro. Fish-Lectronics didn't have the part and couldn't rig one up for me. My unit has the 8 pin DIN locking connector. I got fed up and sacrificed a perfectly good functioning puck transducer's connector and used a voltage meter to figure out which leads were the positive and negative. Vexilar has an uncomplicated wiring scheme compared to Zercom. I had my voltage meter set at 200khz and was able to find the positive lead in the 3rd pin, the 5th pin is the negative lead. I then went to Gander Mountain and purchased a new Vexilar 19 degree transducer and desoldered the leads. I then resoldered the Vexilar transducer to my Zercom connector and I now have a perfectly working ice fishing unit. Luckily I have a spare puck transducer. It paid for me to try something out of desperation. You might want to do this yourself unless your unit has the phono plug which is easier to find. Fish-Lectronics also sells their transducers on hsolist or you can call them to see if they have what you need. I hope this info helps you out.

-Lee

BassPatrol

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Thank you Bass Patrol. thats very helpful. I've got the same thing here with that new 200hz ducer. I didn't know you could do that. I will have to find a 150hz Ice ducer though which probably will be hard. I will give them a call. Thanks again.

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