carb problems?

[Heidi]

I am working on a 1997 SKI DOO. I had the carbs cleaned two years ago and ran it once since then. I filled it with non- oxy gas and seafoam last winter. I just started it again and it wants to die at idle. Carbs gummed again do you think? I wish it would snow one of these years around here so it could be run. Appreciate your advise. How big of a job is it to clean them myself?

[sledhead]

yeah they're dirty again. they are not to troublesome to clean just take you time. then drain them for storage, you won't have to clean them all the time.

[Leader]

being it is a idling problem your pilot jets are plugged.

pretty easy task if at all mechanically inclined.

all parts are small so be careful,do the work over a shop rag, just incase of a fumble.

turn off fuel, remove carb from motor and turn upside down.

remove 4 scews securing float bowl to carb, remove float bowl.might have to tap on float bowl w/plastic end of screwdriver to break loose bowl from carb body.

first thing you'll see is a gold hex main jet, remove it (watch out for sm washer) hold up to light to see if it's plugged, if so clean it out.

if there is a plastic piece that keeps fuel around the main jet remove it.

look very carefully w/light and u will see a hole with a pilot jet down in it, remove w/sm standard screwdriver and clean very thoroughly.(so u can see light through it)

spray down with carb cleaner and reassemble, and do the same to the other carb.

drain old gas out of tank, fill w/fresh gas and turn on the fuel.

once fuel is turned on, remove gas cap and blow in tank to fill fuel lines or it will take 20+ pulls at full choke to fill float bowls and start.(watch fuel lines fill)

good luck

[Heidi]

Thank you for the replies. 20 pulls you say? I will have to spread these out over a few days since I am so out of shape.

[rmh2o]

Yup sounds like dirty carbs.They are pretty easy to clean and leader gave some good advice.To make it easier to prime the fuel pull the plugs and choke then pull till lines fill.Then what I do is give each cylinder a shot of wd-40 replace plugs and it should fire up.

[Leader]

your welcome

does this sound like something u can accomplish?

as rmh2o says, the primer will aid you greatly in the starting process,i forgot all about that feature on ski-doo's. don't know what to think about the wd-40 trick. the cylinders are lubed bein you've already had it running. especially since the idle fuel circuit is plugged and not washing lubrication film off the cylinder walls.

if you start your sled and bring the motor up to operating temperature once a month the carb circuits will stay debris free.

rmh2o, any intrest in elaborating about the wd-40 trick???

just curious.

[hanson]

What happened with you guys and WD-40??

I know WD has a low flash point.

[rmh2o]

WD-40 or spray loose is flamable enough to start an engine and is milder than starting fluid and gives the cylinders a little lube.

[Heidi]

I took one carb off last night to start the cleaning project. I assume that I use a spray carb cleaner? I also assume that she will yell at me again if I try to bring it into the kitchen again to clean? I noticed a thin green film on the bottom of the bowl. Will let you know how I did next week. Thanks again

[lawdog]

Spray carb cleaner is good. I like to use brake cleaner though, its stronger. Soak the jet in it too if its stubborn. Clean up that green scum if you can, but its probably stained the bowl.

And in response to your last issue, most "she's" don't understand or appreciate the need to clean carberators in clean, well lit places such as the kitchen table. Its apparently a genetic defect rendering them unable to appreciate the matter fully...

[Leader]

your assumptions are correct.

no sence in getting scolded, do it in the garage.

good luck

[Leader]

i couldn't agree more about the 2nd part of your post.lol

good day.

[Heidi]

I cleaned the carbs and put them back on and it won't start now. I didn't have much time to tinker with it, but I don't think it is getting gas now. I noticed that the gas lines didn't have much gas in them. I pulled it 20 times with the plugs out to get gas in the lines. It started up before my carb cleaning when I put gas in the carbs but it didn't turn over this time, just one pop. I will try it again tonight. Am I missing anything?

[lawdog]

Are you sure you got them back together right? Did you watch the slide go up/down when you worked the throttle? Did you turn the gas back on?

Millions of things could be wrong, most quite simple...

[Leader]

try pulling it over 3 times without priming or choke, then pull spark plugs out and see if they are wet. if they are you have it flooded. thats the downfall of doing this w/out plugs in. you never now when the motor has suficient amount of fuel to start.

maybe wd-40 fouled the sparkplugs?

good luck

[rmh2o]

My guess is you dont have gas in the carb bowls yet.Check the plugs are they dry.If they are dry keep full choked and start pulling.Ive never had wd-40 foul the plugs.Try it it works.You can also spill a little gas in each cylinder and see if it fires.

[Leader]

hopefully the absence of a post today means you got it goin.

[Heidi]

Leader....silly silly you. I've got spark, I've got dry plugs and I got a new found temper. I poured gas down in the carbs and nothing! That is how I got it to start in the first place. It aint getting fuel, but why didn't it even pop when I tried it with fuel in the carbs? Taking it off involved pulling off 1 fuel line, disconecting a cable off the top side of the carb and loosening up 3 hose clamps from the two rubber boots off the side. Pretty simple and I put if on the same way. I don't know what that cable does. Maybe I screwed it in wrong. I just matched up the threads and tightened her down. I'm ready to break out the checkbook. It is sitting in Blaine on the trailer.

[rmh2o]

Sounds like you disconected the slide cable but if you hooked it back up right you should be able to feel it moving when you press on the throtle.You can try pulling the plugs and puting a little gas directly in each cylinder and replace plugs and see if it will fire.If you cant get it going I could take a look at it.I live near Elk River.Might save you some money.

[Leader]

i commend your spirits this morning after being frustrated with this process.

i'll stay here and do all i can to help you get it goin, if by chance we can't get this accomplished over the net or i live just a stone throw away from cloudy town, and will cruise over and help or do for free.

lets start with check to see fuel is turned on and all ignition switches, and no fuel or vent lines are kinked shut.

if that all checks out, then pour approx 2 tablespoons of fuel down each sparkpulg hole, reinstall plugs and see if it fires.(3 pulls max)

it wouldn't hurt to do this with new sparkplugs.

did you have to unplug any carb safety switches(wires)? if so check them also.

i apolagize about the temper discovery, we will get this goin without check book.

[311Hemi]

Well, it may be a long shot but you said the carbs were cleaned 2 years ago and it has ran once since then. Did it sit much before that? You mentioned that it does not look like there is much fuel in the lines.

Any chance the gas started to turn to tar/oil (don't remember which, but it's sticky) in the bottom of the tank or beggining part of the fuel line and that has it mostly clogged not letting fuel through? Might also explain stuff getting in the carbs so easliy. Just a thought maybe worth checking.

I know an auger that I puchased this year from a friend sat for 2-3 years with gas, and that stuff gummed up (fairly think stubstance) in the bottom of the tank and the beggining part of the fuel line. She obviously would not run until I blew all that dump out of the lines and cleaned the carbs....started up right after that.

[Leader]

i did take that in consideration, but it was runnin and just wouldn't idle. which indicates a plugged pilot jet.

also recommended new fuel.

even if the carb slides weren't installed properly, as long as the carb cap was screwed on tight the motor will still run on the idle circuit but it wouldn't rev up on throttle command, it fired once since cleaned so it led me to believe that if it has a carb safety switch, it's within the correct parameter.

now that i know the plugs are dry and crankase isn't full of fuel(flooded)you can add fuel down cylinders without worry of hydrolocking and knocking the crankshaft out of phase.

With that being said now just wondering if it has a weak fuel pump diaphram or possibly impulse line kinked to the fuel pump, in the carb cleaning process, but some fuel is bein drawn in the lines but just not enough to fill carb bowl and that is the reason i recommended pouring fuel down the cylinders to Make it to fire and draw the fuel on it's own.

also believe the 20 pull system does not work without plugs in, with plugs in it works everytime.(probably part of the issue here, insufficant engine vacuum)

now just waiting on results of last post

i've come to the conclusion i'm a verrry slow typer!!!

much more efficent at fishing and mechanical work.

very good thought and suggestion. they all help to rattle the thought process and bring up new possibilities.

[Heidi]

Last nights "carb game" was called due to rain. Since the carbs were cleaned two years ago, I have only kept the tank filled with non-oxy gas and seafoam. They guy ripped me for running "cheap" gas in the sled. I will try dumping gas down it's throat tonight. Hard to think a line is kinked, since they are pretty pliable and I will reconnect the slides. What does the slides do? When I depress the throttle, I haven't noticed the slides move at all. I'll look closely tonight.

I should have mentioned this at the very beginning, but..... The same guy working on this sled is the same guy who changed the plugs on the Taurus and immediately after the car started to miss. SHE said, "R U sure that you put the plug wires back on?" I snapped back at her of course I did. I aint stupid. Months later, as I was changing oil, I noticed a plug wire flapping around loose!!! Runs fine now.

Still not living that down. Hang with me.

[Leader]

the slide and needle assembly meter the amount of air and fuel your motor gets depending on the throttle position.

the kinked theory was just to check of possible fuel restriction.

110 octane race fuel will turn to varnish, at very close to same rate as 87 octane.

Todays fuel starts to breakdown after 6 weeks from all the additives added to the fuel.

87 octane fuel is fine for this sleds needs,seafoam has helped in this case also.

as long as you don't have a race sled, 87 octane will produce more engine power than 92 octane.

some people run their gumms without nowing "FACTS" or just for the sake of conversation or to look intelligent, makes one wonder their motive.(not addressed to any of the above help)

may today bring you success!

good luck once again

[Leader]

"i had the right to remain silent, but lacked the ability"

"curiosity killed the cat"

"patients are a virtue" whats a virtue?

feeling so dam helpless.

can't stand to see someone struggle or be steered in wrong direction.

dude this is killin me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

just kiddin, and waiting.