As I was finishing up a few mods to my Otter Lodge, I noticed that "someone" had put a few small holes into the sled. Since the new mods didn't make use of these, what do I do?
After a bit of research, I found out the material used in the manufacture of Otter sleds is very close to what downhill skis have for a base surface. I knew that ski bottoms can be repaired with a material I've always known as P-Tex. So why not with an Otter sled?
I started out with a small (1/4" dia.) hole for my initial test.
After wiping off the hole with a dry rag. I began the repair by plugging the hole on the other side with Aluminum foil and tape to keep the molten material in the hole. I lit the P-Tex with a propane torch and let it drip into the hole. It took a few applications to build up enough material to finally fill the hole. Let it drip, let it cool... And so on, and so on...
After the hole was filled and a bit extra for good measure, I let the repair cool for a while then went back and scraped of the excess with a utility blade. Scrape, don't try cutting. Draw the blade towards you. You get a much better "finish".
Only close up can you tell the hole was ever there. Initial results were very good. Field testing begins as soon as possible!!
**CAUTION** DO NOT GET ANY OF THE MOLTEN MATERIAL ON YOUR HANDS!! IT WILL BURN YOU BADLY!!
Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage. Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.
Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
Question
Moose-Hunter
Howdy all...
As I was finishing up a few mods to my Otter Lodge, I noticed that "someone" had put a few small holes into the sled. Since the new mods didn't make use of these, what do I do?
After a bit of research, I found out the material used in the manufacture of Otter sleds is very close to what downhill skis have for a base surface. I knew that ski bottoms can be repaired with a material I've always known as P-Tex. So why not with an Otter sled?
I started out with a small (1/4" dia.) hole for my initial test.
After wiping off the hole with a dry rag. I began the repair by plugging the hole on the other side with Aluminum foil and tape to keep the molten material in the hole. I lit the P-Tex with a propane torch and let it drip into the hole. It took a few applications to build up enough material to finally fill the hole. Let it drip, let it cool... And so on, and so on...
After the hole was filled and a bit extra for good measure, I let the repair cool for a while then went back and scraped of the excess with a utility blade. Scrape, don't try cutting. Draw the blade towards you. You get a much better "finish".
Only close up can you tell the hole was ever there. Initial results were very good. Field testing begins as soon as possible!!
**CAUTION** DO NOT GET ANY OF THE MOLTEN MATERIAL ON YOUR HANDS!! IT WILL BURN YOU BADLY!!
Trust me, it hurts...
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