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Drills for the Clam Drill Plate


Matt Johnson

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Brad B,

Thanks for the comments. However, please explain technically why an impact driver will ruin my auger and blades. It is not the same action as a hammer drill, which imparts an axial force down the drive shaft, but rather a torsional force to turn the shaft.

Please explain your comments

Thanks

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Well after about 8 outings of drilling 6-8 holes each time out, I finally burned up my DeWALT DCD771 drill. Got my final two holes drilled in about 18" of ice on Saturday and right at the bottom of the second hole with a puff of smoke it was done for. 90 day no questions asked warranty by DeWALT...time to step up to a DCD985 as that sounds like a drill which others have had success with.

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I know this is a bit off topic, but I will have a brand new two pack of Dewalt 20volt 4ah batteries(On Wed based of tracking number) if someone would like to buy them from me for cheaper than anywhere else $120. I bought them online and done want to go through the hassle of returning and waiting for my money to be credited back. I figured this might be the best place to put this since just about everyone in here is using Dewalt drills. I was planning on using them but I'm going with a larger drill that already comes with the 4ah batteries and don't need 4 of them.

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hey all, first post but wanted to share in case anyone still checks this thread to see what drills fit the plate.

I have the porter cable PCCK600LB on mine and it fits great. I will update once I have a chance to test it out on the ice.

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Clam Auger Plate Conversion for 18v Cordless Ryobi Drill

Since I have all the Ryobi 18v tools, including three drills, and four 4ah batteries, I wanted to use one of the drills for the auger drill conversion. Initially I mounted a impact driver but was a little leery of the operation based on several comments without any technical explanation. However, I found an answer to mounting the Ryobi 18v drill itself as follows:

1st problem was removing the chuck. Following the many instructions posted on You Tube, I was unsuccessful. However, I finally removed the chuck using the following technique: 1st, to remove the internal locking left handed screw, I put the screw driver in a vise, set the drill to low speed power, and powering it in the clockwise direction ( drilling direction) while holding the drill with two hands to remove the screw. Next, I chucked a large Allen key and mounted it in a vise, setting the drill to low speed power, and powering it in the counterclockwise direction (removal direction) while holding the drill with two hands to remove the chuck. If you still cannot remove the screw or chuck , you may want to heat the assembly with a heat gun to soften the Loctite material.

However, upon removal , I discovered that the chuck thread size is 3/8"-24 UNF which does not match the 1/2"-20 UNF thread on the auger adapter. Apparently, all keyless chucks use either a 1/2-20 UNF or a 3/8-24 UNF mounting thread. Upon searching the internet for a thread adapter, I found an automotive master cylinder brake lining adapter that has a male 1/2"-20 UNF thread for the auger shaft and an internal 3/8"-24 UNF thread for the Ryobi drill chuck shaft. I drilled out the 3/8-24 side to provide more thread engagement onto the drill shaft. You should be able to find this threaded adapter at any automotive parts supply store.

I also noticed that the bearing pillow block was not properly aligned perpendicular to the mounting plate. So I removed it, set it in a vise to square up the whole bearing assembly before inserting the auger shaft. I needed to raise the support bracket by 1 1/4" with a wooden block in order for the c-clamp to engage the drill handle. Also, the trigger eye-bolt must be raised to prevent binding of the trigger assembly. Finally, I added insulated handle covers (pipe insulation) and a 2-axis level for drilling alignment purchased from Home Depot to complete the setup. See attached photo.

I hope that these instructions help others from struggling with the conversion plate setup as I did. I only drilled three holes through 16" ice with an 8" Mora auger to check the setup , but it cut like a "hot knife through butter". Only time will tell how well it works in the future.

full-47351-41327-ryobidrill_rightside.jp

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I have a ryobi drill that I wanted to try so I appreciate the info. There is one thing I don't understand. Why did you have to drill out the 3/8-24 side of the master cylinder lining. I am visualizing a pipe that is threaded on inside and outside so that is why I don't understand the need to drill out one side. Can you help out with picture??

Thanks

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Since the Ryobi drill 3/8"-24 threaded chuck shaft has a 3/16" un-threaded section on the end, which prevents full thread engagement because it butts up against an inner wall, I drilled out this section to allow more threads to engage the adapter. Once you remove the keyless chuch, you will see what the problem is.

This is a photo of the brake line adapter that I used:

full-47351-41353-brakelineadapter.jpg

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I just hooked mine up with the Dewalt DCD 985 and it worked great even with 24" of ice. My one tip for getting the chuck off is to PUT THE DRILL IN 1st GEAR

I wrested with that thing for 30 minutes with an allen and a hammer until I put it in 1st gear and the chuck came off 2 seconds later with just a long handled ratchet, no hammer needed.

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A Heads up!

I used the Ryobi drill set-up yesterday with an 8" Mora hand auger. Drilled about 13 holes without a problem, then the 14th hole began to bind a little resulting in the drill smoking and burnt out!!

However, I discovered that that model (1802 M) had a recall notice out for a bad switch that had a problem with overheating. Called Ryobi and they are picking up the drill at my home via Fed Ex and sending me a replacement drill.

In the mean time, I reinstalled my 18v impact driver and will try this set-up shortly. My 9 yr. old grandson is excited to go ice fishing with me, and I cannot wait for a replacement drill. mad

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Hi Muskie Junkie. When you say you put the drill in first gear, was that the 1-2-3 choice selector on top of the drill? I hope so 'cause that is what I have tried. I am about ready to give up on this project. I have beat on that nice DCD985 drill for over 3 hrs. trying everything that's been suggested except the heat gun. I am leary about that because of all the nearby plastic. I tried the various vise techniques, the crescent wrench, the ratchet, the allen wrench moves, but nothing except for a beat up looking chuck. Anybody have any ideas that work that haven't been discussed? Almost ready to sell the plate, drill and my strikemaster lazer and give up for the season. Not quite there yet.

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Hi jmg,

I had the same problem as you. First remove the internal (left handed ) screw. Then heat up the outside of the chuck with a hair dryer (I used my heat gun). Used an Allen socket and socket wrench to screw off the chuck in the counter clockwise direction. However, now I cannot remove the Allen socket from the chuck!!

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OK. Since no one could tell me if the impact driver would work on the Clam conversion plate, I tested myself. No. An Impact driver WILL NOT WORK. As I suspected, the torsional impacts mushroomed out the hole on the adapter due to the drive pin impacts and the clearance between the drive pin and the auger hole. Had to use a rubber mallet to remove it from the auger adapter and then file off the mushroomed metal.

laugh

I just bought a Ryobi hammer drill and drilled 4 holes with a 8" Mora auger through 10' ice without a problem.

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I know this post is a bit late, as most conversions are complete and that auger drill plates are hard to find. Also keep in mind that there are several ways to complete a job, this is only a description of how I have done it. Anyways, a friend just acquired a new Dewalt DCD 985 and asked me to help him with it, so I thought that I would take a few pictures and describe the chuck removal.

full-42005-41817-drillchuckremoval007.jp

First open the chuck completely and set the switch on top to 1 and trigger switch to forward. The screw inside is a T-20 torx so install that bit in an extension. Put it in the screw and give it a couple of sharp raps with a hammer. Use a 1/4" deep socket on a ratchet handle and slowly apply strong pressure in a clockwise direction. If it does not turn, apply momentary heat to the screw head in the open jaws of the chuck with a fine tipped propane torch, just enough to melt the loc-tite that is on the screw. Repeat the procedure but if you cannot remove the left hand screw, stop. Do not bugger the torx head, take it to a qualified service tech.

full-42005-41818-drillchuckremoval008.jp

Now get a long 3/8" hex key L-wrench and tighten it in the jaws of the chuck. With body parts clear of the L-wrench, slowly and carefully feather the trigger until the end of the L-wrench handle is several inches off the floor while the drill is resting on both the chuck and battery. Pin the drill chuck and battery pack to the floor with strong hand and knee pressure. Use a one pound dead blow mallet to strike the end of the L-wrench. Re-position by feathering the trigger carefully again, strongly hold the drill down so that the chuck and battery pack are touching the floor and really give the end of the L-wrench a wallop. The chuck should now unscrew normally and you can now install the Drill Auger Plate kit.

full-42005-41821-drillchuckremoval010.jp

Once again, there are many ways to do a job, this is how I do it.

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Jim, thanks for the pictures and instructions. However, I spent another 1.5+hrs. today trying all that on my drill and it still won't come loose-even after using the heat gun and a sledge hammer. I called the DEWALT service ctr. in Eden Prairie the other day and the gentleman I spoke with told me I was doing everything right, but I can't seem to get it to pop loose. I can't mess up my arthritic hands too much more or I won't be able to fish. Any other suggestions? Thanks for taking the time to read this.

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Put the drill in a vice and whack that allen wrench with one HARD swing of a hammer like your life depended on it, dont hold back... Also make sure you got it in drill mode and speed 1(wouldnt work in 2 or 3 for me as the drill motor will just turn over). Thats what worked for me on the 985. Had it out today and works like a champ, much better than the $99 home depot dewalt did.

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Hey JMG -- I skipped the compacts also and bought the DeWalt 980M2 drill/driver, with 4.0 ah batteries..This has been working great on the ice for me the past 6 or 7 outings, with me being the primary driller for everyone else in our party!! I'm easily getting 50 - 65 holes par battery, with no smoke. I couldn't even get my hex screw off, much less try the chuck, so I immediately took it to our DeWalt svc center, and they banged at it 'til it got done and they didn't charge anything, even giving me a new chuck cuz they said they buggered up the original one getting it off. No way I could have done it...my recommendation -- get it to your closest svc center IF AT ALL POSSIBLE... I love this setup. Glad I didn't go gas.

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