Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Where to find some Bullet proof lug nuts!


Recommended Posts

I'm so sick of these GM craapy lug nuts with the "Tin Foil" jacket of the top of them rounding off! Have them on my 2009 Saturn Vue and the last Blazer I had.

Anyone have a suggestion on some good solid lug nuts that wouldn't leave you in the middle of no where tiring to change a tire! :eek:

I tried a set of the after market ones at Autozone and they are already rusting since this fall when I put them on. :(

One thing I don't need to do when it's 20- below coming back on a Sunday night on the side of a road is play with my Nuts! :mad:

2028982-007.jpg

Edited by leech~~
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forgot to add....when ya put 'em on, use a dab of anti-seize, or at least a drop of motor oil. After doing about 10,000 wheel changes and brake jobs, you get real tired of wasting time heating yer nuts with a torch and busting studs. :tired:  :lol:

Edited by RebelSS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are looking for "acorn" style lug nuts. We get them from ATD and always have them in stock especially for jeep/Chrysler.

With proper maintenance along with proper torque you should never have to anti-sieze or oil a lug nut/stud. If you do decide to use it the slightest amount is more than enough. Nothing worse than rotating a set of tires and looking like the tin man because the customer liberally applied some anti-sieze!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Jeremy airjer W said:

You are looking for "acorn" style lug nuts. We get them from ATD and always have them in stock especially for jeep/Chrysler.

With proper maintenance along with proper torque you should never have to anti-sieze or oil a lug nut/stud. If you do decide to use it the slightest amount is more than enough. Nothing worse than rotating a set of tires and looking like the tin man because the customer liberally applied some anti-sieze!

Yes they are acorn style. So what is the proper lug nut maintenance? I seem to have the most problem after you "auto guys" get done doing some work and torque them back on! ;)

Has anyone heard anything about the lugs with the Spline Drive in them? I heard you shouldn't use a impact wrench on them but they look like they may have some good grab? You just have to make sure you always have the socket with you.

k2-_7d387fe1-da80-45e1-90c0-be7636c3d2dc.v1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, leech~~ said:

Yes they are acorn style. So what is the proper lug nut maintenance? I seem to have the most problem after you "auto guys" get done doing some work and torque them back on! ;)

That is because you have chuckle heads doing the work. I assure you there are auto professionals who will treat your vehicle with respect and properly torque your lug nuts to spec EVERY TIME a wheel comes of. with proper rotation schedules, proper torque, and a little wash maintenance on the owners part, and there should never be a problem getting lug nuts off and on.

As far as the lug nuts you are asking about, forget it. Your "auto guys" will have the socket broken in no time flat not to mewntioin they will hate you every time they have to hunt down the socket and pull off a wheel.  Stick with the standard one piece chrome acorns and life will be much easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jeremy. I have another question for you. This whole lug nut thing started as I have an ABS light on. The micnic who checked it wrote Right rear wheel speed sensor not reading. I was sure it was a speed sensor issue but not which one. He did not write Driver side rear wheel or Passenger side rear wheel just right rear. Would you say that was from the front of the car then Driver side rear or the rear of the car Passenger side rear wheel? Hate to tare into both! :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I went with the Right rear going from the front. When the micnic did his testing for the ABS fault it came up with a low battery not giving enough voltage at start up to the ABS system. I had that replaced but ABS light still on! He more or less after that gave up and said he could not find the short. When he did his final test report that he gave me at the bottom of all the codes list it said right rear speed sensor not reading. I thought before I bring it in to the Chev dealer I will check the right rear sensor myself. "Findings" Door knob forgot to plug it back in! I plugged it in and the light went away. So he may have been right about the low battery but when you forget to plug sensors back in-you can't find a short that's Not There! :crazy: 

So I may still buy tires from them but they will never work on my cars again!

So back to the OP Lugs Nuts! :lol:

Edited by leech~~
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My newer Ford:  I ran into a case of the tin foil covered lug nut that went from 3/4" to 18mm when I forced the wrapping off of it. 

I bought 20 solid steel, chrome plated lug nuts off hsolist for $14.  Good buy tin foil-leave me stranded on the side of the road-lug nuts! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.