Testing Anti-freeze

[BobT]

I have a tester for testing anti-freeze but I've only used it for testing green anti-freeze. My daughter's car uses orange anti-freeze. Do both of these fluids have the same density so I can use the same tester or do I need a different tester for the orange vs green?

Thanks.

[RebelSS]

Yup. They're both ethylene glycol. Orange has different rust inhibitors/additives. 

[Jeremy airjer W]

The specific gravity is essentially the same between the green stuff and Dexcool. (1.12 vs. 1.13, off the top of my head) However, the floating balls are highly inaccurate. A refractometer is the way to go. The balls will give you a pretty good idea but there have been many occasions where the balls are floating correctly and the refractometer is off the charts overprotected. neither of these will test acidity, which can also be a huge problem in older coolants.

[Ufatz]

Well okay then Jeremy,  WHICH tester will do all the things you want.  C'mon....tell us the rest of the answer!! Ha Ha HA!

[delcecchi]

How about the ones with the glass floats?

 

[Jeremy airjer W]

How about the ones with the glass floats?

 

Glass or plastic there measuring the same thing, Specific Gravity

Well okay then Jeremy,  WHICH tester will do all the things you want.  C'mon....tell us the rest of the answer!! Ha Ha HA!

There are paper test strips that will test acidity. A volt meter will do the same thing. I want to say you should see less than .5 volts. I have run into some older vehicles that have been well above that. I'm getting to old to remember the specific number

[delcecchi]

So the glass float jobs are pretty accurate at measuring specific gravity?  

[BobT]

Thanks for the replies. Good to know my tester is equally effective (or not) with either type of anti-freeze. I actually was struggling to find this information online.

[RebelSS]

So the glass float jobs are pretty accurate at measuring specific gravity?  

Far better than those silly little floating balls or swinging arrow type...if you get a GOOD one..ie; commercial grade. You can order these from high-end cooking places, or a good auto-parts store, as there are a lot of liquid specific hydrometers. Checking with a voltmeter like Jeremy said also is quite helpful. I believe the range of "OK" is 0.01-05; 0.07 and above, time to change. Had mine for about 20 years now. Utilizes a hot/cold scale check with very specific temp ranges. You can buy just the hydrometer, which I need to do, as I dropped mine last week while wiping it off before putting it back in the tube. 

 

Edited October 15, 2015 by RebelSS

[BobT]

Glass or plastic there measuring the same thing, Specific Gravity

There are paper test strips that will test acidity. A volt meter will do the same thing. I want to say you should see less than .5 volts. I have run into some older vehicles that have been well above that. I'm getting to old to remember the specific number

Does the acidity degrade its anti-freeze capabilities even when the specific gravity tests okay or is it more of a protect the engine from acid damage issue?

[delcecchi]

voltmeter to check antifreeze?  How does that work? 

[RebelSS]

Does the acidity degrade its anti-freeze capabilities even when the specific gravity tests okay or is it more of a protect the engine from acid damage issue?

It's more of a "protect the engine" type thing, more or less, It does result in decreased coolant life and possible damage to the engine/system, like the water pump and seals, radiator, plugged oil cooler, etc. The presence of small particles is indicative too, of high acidity. I'm changing mine on Monday...I only have 15,000 easy miles on my 2010 truck,  (ya, ya read that right..) There's a wee bit of a few particles here and there in my factory coolant, and it tests a fair bit over the .06 that it should be below. The new long-life coolants are good for approx 5 years, at least in Ford vehicles. I've flushed enough engines, replaced enough heater cores (oh fun) and seen what crappy coolant can do. Ya don't want it so acidic your engine turns into a giant battery  from electrolysis.   Just not worth pushing it.  

Edited October 15, 2015 by RebelSS

[RebelSS]

On a side note: Stopped at a big "tent sale" at Harbor Freight Tools. I've never stepped foot in there, never had a reason to.  But, I needed a can of WD-40 and some zip ties and thought they MIGHT have a hydrometer replacement. Young guy asked what I need, just told him an "antifreeze tester".  Blank look...I've never heard of that"....Me: "Are you serious?!" Him: "Yes, I am (growly) Me: "Then how do you know when to replace/check your antifreeze?!" Him: "I wasn't aware you had to....I'm a mechanic, too", I race dirt bikes, and we never have done that"...

I'll leave it at that, you can use your imagination....  I'll say just one thing...incredible. Just incredible. I'm still wheezing from the laughing.

PS..I had to REALLY bite my tongue, as an ex-Yamaha bike racer/builder. 

Edited October 15, 2015 by RebelSS

[Jeremy airjer W]

voltmeter to check antifreeze?  How does that work? 

one lead of your tester on the negative post of the battery, the other in the coolant.

[delcecchi]

one lead of your tester on the negative post of the battery, the other in the coolant.

Never heard of that.  Thanks for the tip.

[BobT]

Thanks for all the valuable information. Good to know kind of stuff.