2014 F150

[Tom7227]

I just bought a new 2014 F150 XLT.  The dealer said that it is galvanized and so it won't rust out.  Is this accurate?  Since my 2002 is not looking that good despite the undercoating I wonder what is correct, and more importantly what I can do to keep it looking good.  I park it in a garage that never gets below 32 degrees and I was wondering if that damp salty slush is a big problem.

Thanks for your time.

Tom

[Jeremy airjer W]

The corrosion process happens more quickly in temp above freezing. Heated garages are car body killers in Minnesota. 

[Tom7227]

The corrosion process happens more quickly in temp above freezing. Heated garages are car body killers in Minnesota. 

​What about the galvanized metal so no rust claim?

 

[Jeremy airjer W]

still a good question. Maybe a body shop guy will chime in.

[MNice]

Sorry, in MN I think even wood will rust   I think galvanization has been used in cars for a while, it helps, but not rust proof.

[RebelSS]

I think whoever told you that needs to do a little more research on their own product. Galvanized body parts have been around since the 80's. inner fenders, liners, and wheel wells were typically what was zinc-coated  (hot dipped) for rust prevention. The new F-150's still use a steel frame and cross-members, but the sheet metal is all aluminum.The frame and all steel fasteners are zinc coated, and the 6000 series aluminum with added zinc body panels should not be an issue. Ford has gone to using a lot more structural adhesive, and many other fastenings are adhesive spot fasteners. Like stated, "if it's gonna rust, it's gonna rust". Living here, there is nothing you can do to stop it. Once a spot of rust starts anywhere, it will spread. Oxygen and moisture combining causes it, and road salt/slush just accelerates it. About the only thing you can do is keep your vehicle clean and dry, including the underside, and cross your fingers. IMO, undercoating is a waste of money, as the rust will start in any untreated area, and I've seen it often start under the coatings. Vehicles have come a long way, I think you'll be happy with your new Ford. My 2010 still looks like new. 

Edited June 6, 2015 by RebelSS

[Tom7227]

This is a 2014.  I didn't want to be one of the first on the experiment with the aluminum bodies.  Parts are too expensive and as I read not many shops can do the work on them.  Not interested in being tied to a dealer shop.

 

[RebelSS]

This is a 2014.  I didn't want to be one of the first on the experiment with the aluminum bodies.  Parts are too expensive and as I read not many shops can do the work on them.  Not interested in being tied to a dealer shop.

 

​Whoops, my bad. But, aluminum parts have been used in cars for years, hoods, deck, etc, Audi using the most starting in the 90's. A partial list of aluminum usage in cars...

 

 

  The following is only a partial list of manufacturers who use aluminum body panels:

ACURA	NSX (ALL), RL (HOOD, DECKLID, FENDERS AND TRUNK)
ASTON MARTIN	VANQUISH (BODY PANELS), DB9 (HOOD)
BMW	Z8 & 7 SERIES (BODY PANELS), 3, 5, 6 SERIES (HOOD, DOORS, BODY PANELS), X5, X6 SERIES (HOOD, BODY PANELS)
BUICK	LESABRE (HOOD), PARK AVENUE (HOOD), RENDEZVOUS (LIFTGATE)
CADILLAC	CTS (HOOD), DEVILLE (HOOD), ESCALADE (LIFTGATE), SEVILLE (HOOD)
CHEVROLET	SUBURBAN (LIFTGATE), TAHOE (LIFTGATE), VENTURE (HOOD)
CHRYSLER	CONCORDE, LHS, PACIFICA (HOODS)
FERRARI	360 MODENA (BODY PANELS)
FORD	EXPEDITION (HOOD & LIFTGATE), EXPLORER (HOOD AND FENDERS), F-150 (HOOD), LINCOLN NAVIGATOR (HOOD & LIFTGATE), LINCOLN LS (HOOD, FENDER & TRUNK LID), RANGER (HOOD), LINCOLN TOWN CAR (HOOD), GT (BODY PANELS), MUSTANG GT (HOOD)
GM	YUKON, YUKON XL (LIFTGATES)
HONDA	S2000 (HOOD), INSIGHT (BODY PANELS)
INFINITI	Q (HOOD & TRUNK LID) I (HOOD & TRUNK LID)
JAGUAR	XJ, S-TYPE (HOOD)
LANCER	XJ, S-TYPE (HOOD), EVOLUTION VIII (ROOF)
LEXUS	SC430 (HOOD)
LOTUS	ELISE SPORT 190 (BODY PANELS)
MERCEDES	CL500, SL500 AND OTHER MODELS
MERCURY	MOUNTAINEER
NISSAN	ALTIMA, MAXIMA (HOODS & TRUNK LIDS)
OLDSMOBILE	AURORA (HOOD & TRUNK LID), SILHOUETTE (HOOD)
OPEL	SPEEDSTER (BODY PANELS)
PANOZ	ROADSTER (BODY PANELS)
PEUGEOT	407 (HOOD)
PORSCHE	CAYENNE (HOOD), 911 (HOOD)
PLYMOUTH	PROWLER (HOOD, DOORS & TRUNK LID)
PONTIAC	BONNEVILLE, MONTANA (HOODS)
RANGE ROVER / LAND ROVER	HOODS, DOORS, SIDE PANELS
SAAB	9-2X (HOOD)
SUBARU	9-2X (HOOD), GT (HOOD), LEGACY (HOOD, BUMPERS, SUNROOF)
VOLVO	(HOODS & TRUNK LIDS

 

[derbier122x]

Most shops will work on aluminum bodied cars. It is simply finding a quality shop to fix your truck (hopefully never need to). Tig welders and spool guns have become way more common nowadays, as well as hug advances in adhesives over the past few years. You should be fine going to any reputable shop.

As far as galvanized, as mentioned, most body panels have already had the dipping process done for billions of years. (ok, so a slight exaggeration) 

Park it outside in the winter or keep the garage below freezing will be the best bet to minimize the inevitable corrosion. Keeping it clean is also a huge factor. Good luck with your new truck!!