Help me please!

[ryan.d]

Hey, I have a Jiffy model 30 with a 10" auger. It never really ran good last year so we always used my buddies auger. Anyway, I got my auger out to test it to make sure it would run when I went out the next day. I would be able to get it started and run for a while but not long enough to drill a hole.

So I got a carb kit for it, cleaned the carb body very good, i'm positive every hole and passage is completely clear, new champion j17lm spark plug gapped at .025, and I cleaned the muffler thing (its basically just a cap/cover over the exhaust port), and 91 octane non-oxygenated mixed 24:1 which is what the auger says to.

I can get it started in 2-5 pulls and it will idle fine. When I try to drill a hole I basically have to let it cut under its own weight, if I would slightly put any pressure down it would stop. It seems light there is no power and I don't understand why.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

[Agronomist_at_IA]

Hey, I have a Jiffy model 30 with a 10" auger. It never really ran good last year so we always used my buddies auger. Anyway, I got my auger out to test it to make sure it would run when I went out the next day. I would be able to get it started and run for a while but not long enough to drill a hole.

So I got a carb kit for it, cleaned the carb body very good, i'm positive every hole and passage is completely clear, new champion j17lm spark plug gapped at .025, and I cleaned the muffler thing (its basically just a cap/cover over the exhaust port), and 91 octane non-oxygenated mixed 24:1 which is what the auger says to.

I can get it started in 2-5 pulls and it will idle fine. When I try to drill a hole I basically have to let it cut under its own weight, if I would slightly put any pressure down it would stop. It seems light there is no power and I don't understand why.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Have you adjusted the lower and high screws?

[Stringerless!]

Mine starting to act the same. Over 30 years old. Might take it in today. Never done a thing to it in 30 years.

[Surface Tension]

I agree, adjust your high speed mixture. It sounds like its running on the rich side so start by turning the high speed screw in. Do so in small increments.

[ryan.d]

hey stringer could you tell us when you get it back what was wrong.

[ryan.d]

yes i have adjusted both. i put them back where they were when took them apart and it barley run so i went 1/4 out on both set the low and the idle and then the high. with the auger pinned it seems to need the high speed adjustment need to be all the way in.

i'm not really sure but it seems like i wasn't able to lean it out

[SHAWSKI]

on the high end, I believe it should sort of "labor" or "4 stroke". That is if you are tuning high speed without loading (working) the engine. If you set high speed unloaded and just tune for max rpm I believe you will be too lean.

Running wide open, try to tune for smoothest running, then turn the screw out to where it starts to get sluggish. I believe you want to be generally in the beginning of that "sluggish" area for it to perform well under a load.

Same for the low speed idle. Find that sweet spot where it sounds clean and awesome, then add like 1/4 turn out.

I hope that makes sense?

They say a good starting point for the 2 mixture screws is 2 turns out for both screws. Start with the low speed, turn it in until you get the highest idle. If it gets so high that the clutch engages and spins the auger then adjust your idle speed screw (3rd screw), turn it down to where the clutch is not engaging then go back to the low speed mix screw and look for the sweet spot again. Find the clean sounding highest rpm spot and then add a bit more (as much as 1/4 turn out) then go for the high speed screw, turn it in until you get the clean and crazy high rpms. Then slowly turn out from there until it starts to fatten up a bit and slow down a tad in RPM.

Then let it fall back to idle speed by letting off the throttle, then hammer it wide open. You want to get as good of a response as possible. If it falls on its face before revving up then your low speed may still be a little lean.

Good luck, I hope you get it slinging ice chips like a mad banshee.

[BobT]

on the high end, I believe it should sort of "labor" or "4 stroke". That is if you are tuning high speed without loading (working) the engine. If you set high speed unloaded and just tune for max rpm I believe you will be too lean.

Running wide open, try to tune for smoothest running, then turn the screw out to where it starts to get sluggish. I believe you want to be generally in the beginning of that "sluggish" area for it to perform well under a load.

Same for the low speed idle. Find that sweet spot where it sounds clean and awesome, then add like 1/4 turn out.

I hope that makes sense?

They say a good starting point for the 2 mixture screws is 2 turns out for both screws. Start with the low speed, turn it in until you get the highest idle. If it gets so high that the clutch engages and spins the auger then adjust your idle speed screw (3rd screw), turn it down to where the clutch is not engaging then go back to the low speed mix screw and look for the sweet spot again. Find the clean sounding highest rpm spot and then add a bit more (as much as 1/4 turn out) then go for the high speed screw, turn it in until you get the clean and crazy high rpms. Then slowly turn out from there until it starts to fatten up a bit and slow down a tad in RPM.

Then let it fall back to idle speed by letting off the throttle, then hammer it wide open. You want to get as good of a response as possible. If it falls on its face before revving up then your low speed may still be a little lean.

Good luck, I hope you get it slinging ice chips like a mad banshee.

Ditto!

[ryan.d]

Hey guys thanks for trying to help me out.

Shawski thanks that is real help full, but that is what i tried to do when i was messing around with my auger. it just seams like i couldn't get the auger to really sound nice when i was adjusting everything, I just couldn't get it to lean out, it just sounded boggy and rich.

I am at college so i can't run home and check and try everything but i was thinking. I think when i was trying to set the low and high speed jets i think the screw that adjust the throttle by opening it may have been screwed in quite a bit. Would that have effected anything when i was trying to adjust the high/low speed screws?

Also, when i rebuilt the carb i didn't replace the welch plugs because i didn't exactly know how to put the new ones in. When i get home over christmas break and pull the welch plugs (and give it a secret bath) and put it back together, do you think it would make a difference?

Thanks for your help everyone.

[Surface Tension]

When the high and low speed adjustments don't seem to make a change or if they are way out of spec then you have something internally not right. Usually a dirty carb. In your case your running to rich.

OK, first look at the pic. Note the gasket location. If you have that between the carb body and Dia your going to throw off the metering lever and that will allow to much fuel into the carb.

It that checks out then I'd adjust the tang/lever for the (inlet valve)needle & seat. Essentially it meters the amount of fuel that enters the carb. Look at the pic below. In your case you would bend the tang down a hair.

Normally Model 30 owners experience the opposite and they have to prime to finish a hole. After a cleaning some find the same symptom exits. The lever will have to be adjusted(up) to allow more fuel into the carb. It is very picky and needs to be tweaked to get the 30 to run like it should.

[ryan.d]

hey thank, I could have possibly put that gasket on the wrong side of the diaphragm. But the second picture is not the same carb as the first. My carb is like the first one, the needle sticks thru the seat and is opened from the diaphragm pushing against the needle that sticks thru. haha if that made any sense. Would i file down the piece that sticks thru?

[Surface Tension]

No you wouldn't file it down. Check to see if the gasket is in the wrong place.

[Surface Tension]

Something else. Did the kit have a new needle and seat and if so did you replace both and is it put together right?

[SHAWSKI]

I really think you need to pull the Welch plugs. Its not too tricky, you can usually puncture them with a small pick and pry them out. Once you get them out you will see that they expose little jets and or fuel passages that you can clean really good with the plugs out. Put the new plugs in place with the dome side out, then carefully set them with a small flat faced punch. You tap the dome down and the OD if the plug increases and makes a tight seal.

[ryan.d]

Yup new needle and seat. on thing that i was a little confused about was that i had to put the little rubber bushing into the brass seat and i wasn't sure which way it went in. its kind of hard to explain but the one side of the rubber bushing was smooth and the other side seemed to have a smaller circle around it.

I know this is a terrible description. After i get back home ill put a picture of what i am talking about.

[ryan.d]

I really think you need to pull the Welch plugs. Its not too tricky, you can usually puncture them with a small pick and pry them out. Once you get them out you will see that they expose little jets and or fuel passages that you can clean really good with the plugs out. Put the new plugs in place with the dome side out, then carefully set them with a small flat faced punch. You tap the dome down and the OD if the plug increases and makes a tight seal.

Ok i kept the new replacements so i will do that when i get home. At the time i didn't know exactly how to replace them and was short on time so i didn't do it, but i've watched a few videos and it looks simple.

[2eyesman2]

you need to adjust your carb screws also switch to amsoil and run a 80 to 1 ratio with non oxys gas and add a bit of seafoam to your gas can. My jiffy is from the early 70's and it still runs like a champ but you have to tinker with it every once in awhile