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Punching in MN


Jeff13

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So you see guys punching big mats in Florida and all over the south.

I spent some time on Minnetonka punching thick milfoil mats with 1 ounce tungsten weights this summer and had some success. A few questions for you guys that use this technique:

1. I used a 8:1 Daiwa Tatula Type R which was nice but I had it rigged up on a 7-6 daiwa Tatula flippin rod heavy/fast action. I thought the rod was a little light and short for the job. So I'm looking for suggestions on a new punching rod, longer than 7-6 and under $200.00 or in that ball park. I know there are lots to choose from but looking for some feedback on some from you guys.

2. I fish a lot of lakes with out milfoil up north, what are you punching up there? Or is punching not really a go to tactic, I've always just been fishing heavy jigs through thick cabbage and stuff up north. But does anyone punch the pads?? Or any other thick stuff on NON milfoil lakes.

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In that price range there is a lot of options. I use a powell max 7105, which is a 7'10" MH power rod. It's a decent stick that's taken a lot of abuse, but I'm not the type that owns 20+ different rods and experiments a lot. Most MH and for sure H action rods in that 7'6"-8' range should handle it well. I punch up to 1 1/4 oz weights with no issues. The thing with punching is you can have a XXH rod with 100lb braid and still lose plenty of fish. It's part of the game which I'm sure you've found out.

I only fish one lake with milfoil the rest of the time I'm punching other forms of matted weeds. Finding laydowns/docks that have matted weeds around them can be very productive. Pads are another area. Usually I tone the weight down a bit, but it's the same concept.

This summer I did a video on tying a punch rig and managed to catch a few fish in the process. Here it is if anyone wants to check it out.

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I use a 7'11" GLX Loomis, but its outside you $200.. I love it though. I'm sure you can find something though that will work in your price range.

As for what you can punch.. well, anything thick. Even the lakes up north have thick areas, maybe a bunch of weeds ripped up and laying on the surface, or some really thick lily pads(some of my fave)..

I personally feel a punch set up will go though anything better than a jig, so I will use a punch set up to flip pencil reeds, maiden cane, and trees and wood as well.

Just my opinion.

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Nothing says you have to use a punching rig for "punching" either. I use it a lot just around any thick weed edges. The weeds don't have to be at the surface. Like Deitz said, it just comes through weeds a lot better than a jig. I used it last week and the bite was a little tough, but the faster fall made for a bit of a reaction bite.

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I'll second the Powell slopmaster recommended, although I mainly use a Powell Punch Rod, which is an 8-footer. The main thing for me with a punch rod regardless of brand is it can't just be a pool cue. Has to have some tip to it so you can pitch to holes more accurately, and so you can lift and feel the weight of a fish without making them drop it.

I fish mainly up north where there isn't milfoil, but I still do punch in pads, thick coontail that's laid over, where uprooted weeds are blown in around something, etc. I do generally use a punch rig as they tend to penetrate better than a jig as others have said, but I don't often go as heavy as you see down south. I rarely go over an ounce, and bet I use 3/4 oz most of the time.

It's not something I do every time I'm out by any means, but it's a way to get at some fish that don't see a lot of lures on most of the lakes I fish.

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