Co2 detector

[waligators]

Has anybody ever placed a detector inside the same cabinet as your heater is in (forced air furnace)? In the V of my house is where I've got my gas line coming in, furnace, and stove. Just think it would give some more piece of mind if I placed one in the cabinet where these potential leaks could happen. I'm also going to place one near the back of the house where the bunks are.

[SnowGuy73]

You will only need one CO detector. CO alarms will go off at a low detected rate, giving you plenty of time to evacuate.

Just make sure you are buy a CO (Carbon monoxide) alarm, and not a CO2 (carbon dioxide). As malfunctioning gas appliances give off carbon monoxide.

[RebelSS]

CO detectors are activated by a high concentration of carbon monoxide, not low. I've never seen a non-commercial CO2 detector,(carbon dioxide, the stuff that makes your pop fizzy) or any reason why a person would need one, outside of an industrial application. So,no need to worry about getting the wrong one. All combustion type burning appliance give off CO. Mount your CO detector at mid-level height; in mid-room in an ice house, in a small enclosed type area near a combustion source is not recommended, as it can give false readings/alarms. General advice is 15' away from combustion source in residential setting. In an ice shack, mid-distance between combustion source and main "breathing areas" is a good rule.

Pure carbon monoxide is actually about 3% lighter than air. But usually it is made in modest concentrations, mixed in with the normal combustion products: CO2, H2O. This is mixed with the 80% Nitrogen in the air that never participates in burning. That mixes with room air, making an even smaller concentration...the belief that it rises up or sinks to the floor is not accurate.

And there are some uncertainties... Some fuels make light exhaust (more H2O), some make heavy (more CO2). Then when the exhaust cools the light part, H20 (water vapor), may condense and drop out. Not to mention that the exhaust gas was expanded when hot, and it contracts as it cools. No rule can predict which way it is going to go in most circumstances.

Because it travels in whatever directions the air normally circulates, which varies, it's hard in most areas to find the best position where CO will enter or concentrate. Basic rule is to place detector at a convenient position, or one associated with that area you wish to protect, breathing in air at medium height. Proper air ventilation is a must, too.

You can never go wrong with a good CO detector. Buy a good one and check those batteries frequently. A last note, do NOT count on those "low oxygen" sensors on some portable heaters to stay safe. CO levels can rise into the danger zone long before the O2 is depleted enough to shut these heaters down, as there is no alarm on these. Stay safe!

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I'm a strong advocate on getting a Co2 detector with a digital readout. It can take hours of elevated Co2 levels to activate the detectors. If you have the readout you can casually monitor the levels and either fix any potential problems, or get the heck out.

[cold one sd]

Twing!!!

[JWB475]

Provided you purchase a Carbon Monoxide (CO not CO2) detector that meets the UL Standard (it will say so on the package), it will alarm based on the following criteria:

30 days at 30 ppm

60-240 minutes at 70ppm

10-50 minutes at 150ppm

4-15 minutes at 400ppm

Pretty much anything over 100 ppm isn't good for you, symptoms up to ~500 ppm are generally headache, nausea (not unlike a bad hangover). Things get extremely dangerous when levels rise above that..

[waligators]

Thanks for the input fellas, I meant carbon monoxide and not carbon dioxide.

[Ontherocks]

I thought CO was Conservation Officer!