rickwalley Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Hi Guys....A couple questions:1) I'm installing my new Empire DV-215 heater soon and I bought a two stage auto-changeover regulator for use out at my new dual 20lb tanks setup. Is this OK? Or does the Empire furnace not need this because it has it's own internal regulator of some sort?2) This will be my first season with my new 8' x 12' skidhouse and I just want to get the basics done to get it out and see what stuff I want to do more fancy for next season. I'd rather not hard pipe the LP from the furnace over to the exterior tanks about 12' away. Can I just order a gas hose that long off the Internet and string along the inside shanty wall and then pop out at the spot the tanks are hanging? Do you guys install a "cord hatch" or a "hose hatch"? Will a hose go right from a regulator onto a furnace, or will there need to be nipples installed?Also, I see there are high pressure and low pressure hoses. I'm assuming the Empire is considered low pressure? If long hoses are only available in high pressure, will that matter to the Empire?Thanks to anyone that's been through installing their own Empire and the related layouts and hookups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSK76 Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 1# yes use the regulator on the changeover.2# not sure if a hose is a great idea if it was mine I wouldn't. You will want to put partical trap or i think that's what they call it before it runs into the heater. Basically it just a 2" to 3" pipe that's inline that runs straight down with a cap at the end, like a "T". A shut off valve is a good idea too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leech~~ Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 The inline filter looks like this and their like $10 bucks, and not an issue using a high pressure hose. They are a little stiffer but why not have something a little better I always say! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 I have gas piped alot of fish houses with the hose maide foe LP. I got it from the LP company and made to the length I needed. I have replaced copper lines with it because sometimes the little vibration will cause the line to crack at the flair or some place. As JSK76 said use the regulator and the drip leg and shut off valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam7069 Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 +1 had that happen with a copper line at the flare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickwalley Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 A couple follow up questions.If I use a hose, can I run it into the furnace thru the hole in the bottom and connect right to a pipe nipple added? Or do I need to hard pipe to the outside of that same bottom hole and make the hose connection below the furnace? Are the hoses rated to be inside the lower furnace area?Keep in mind I haven't run the furnace yet, so I'm not familiar if the whole area inside gets real hot or only certain areas. It seemed odd to me that in the back lower left corner where you mount the wall screw, that the area has exposed wall showing? Is that right? I mounted mine to a plywood board and it seemed odd if it gets hot in there to see bare wood showing at the back of the furnace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawg Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Mine stays cool but it's a wall mount & different brand. Most I've seen and done go right to the flange. Put a little protection around it if you're nervous. You must have sharp metal, if not don't worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBaldwin Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Your heater will be a low pressure heater when they talk high pressure they are talking those construction heaters. I would go with hose if I were you they make a thicker LP hose that you could use as well. You will need a regulator at the tanks, dual ones work great for this application so you are not out of heat in the middle of the night and have to go change the tanks! I would make a place to actually mount the tanks to your house if you are worried about theft just take them off when you leave.I am personally not familiar with a door hatch for the hose makes sense to make one if you plan to disconnect every time? I know they make a quick connect that you can attach to the outside again if you are worried about theft I would personally leave regulator and everything out and tank tanks home with me.That picture Leech showed is a fuel filter for a small little buddy heater this is not meant for an empire direct vent heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawg Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 I've always used 100# tanks on a fish house before so this is my first time with dual tanks. I'm assuming they must switch before the pilot goes out right? Please say-right. Or what good are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBaldwin Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Yes they switch over before it goes out... There is a primary tank an a secondary tank.. So when you put both tanks hooked to the regulator via "pigtails" there is a lever at the top that will go either right or left that is your primary tank. On the ones I used to sell their use to be a color indicator on top (red meaning out and green meaning still gas) once this hits red it will automatically change over (hence the name of the regulator "automatic changeover"). Once you go out there and notice it is red you have the capability to change the primary tank to the other side this will let you unhook your "old primary" tank so you can refill if desired while the other is still running the heater.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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