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Everything posted by rickwalley

  1. A CO detector is a good thing to have some redundancy built in.....put in two of them and make them different brands and types...also, maybe one is battery operated and one hardwired, etc, etc
  2. FYI.....feed the dog, it looks hungry !!
  3. Papadarv, the pic of the Mora auger blades doesn’t look like what I’m used to? It almost looks like there is some sort of centering bit and also some half circle areas of the blades are removed?
  4. Do all of you use the snap igniter to light the pilot flame? I’ve never been able to get it to work......maybe it’s a cold weather thing. I’ve always had to open the sight window and use a lighter like used to light a fireplace gas log in a home. I have about a 8’ or 9’ gas hose run from tanks to heater and always take a fair amount of time to purge the line at initial setup at start off a weekend trip.
  5. If anyone wants to wait to do their lottery stuff, I did receive a response from the MN DNR and they expect to have that 2017 Harvest Report up on the page early next week.
  6. Yep......2018 stuff is on the page. One thing yet to be posted is the 2017 Harvest Report. Hopefully it goes up soon.
  7. I reached out to the MN DNR late last fall and they provided me the attached report. The markings on it were already there when I got it from them. They acknowledged it normally isn't released until spring of the following year. It's not the full "2017 Harvest Report"...but at least it lets you think about what it took to successfully get a tag in the last lottery. I would think the 2017 Harvest Report would get posted along with the 2018 Lottery going live in the next week. MN 2017 Bear Lottery Results.pdf
  8. can you show us and mention the details of the tv wall bracket you decided on?
  9. I also chose that T-Stat from what I learned on the forums and it has worked perfect for a few years now...........
  10. jmercil......... In your last pic, are those PC fans up near the ceiling? If so, tell me a little more about your setup. Fans only at the top, or top and bottom? Some type of pvc flange where they wall mount? PVC pipe in the walls? etc, etc.
  11. Hey Guys, I'm thinking of getting a new graph for the boat, and finally replace my Eagle Accura 240 from many, many years ago. I'm hoping to get a lot more boat time in the next year or two I haven't been able to get in the last 10-15 years. Needless to say it's going to be a great jump into today's technology. As much as I look forward to it in the boat, I also want to use it's lake mapping and GPS coordinate functions during the winter. I won't need it for the sonar function on the lake, as I already have a Marcum for that. My question is how do these screens work in real cold weather? Can the mapping keep up at slow speeds? As you approach a saved way point? I know the Marcum supposedly has a screen heater built in to help the digital returns show on the screen at real time. Assuming these boat sonars don't have that feature..am I at an accuracy disadvantage that I need to be aware of? For what it's worth...I'm thinking of going for a home run and getting the new Humminbird Helix 10" Mega SI G2........... Thanks for any on the ice experiences any of you already have.
  12. I can move it fine when snow depths are minimal. I think the smaller size houses will get up on top OK, no matter the snow depth. It's just when you get into the 7-8' wide models that you lose that capability. I kind of knew this going in. I've already placed a 12" tall aluminum V shaped deflector at the front to help funnel some snow underneath, and also sheeted the underside with 1/8" HDPE. What I have figured out is decide where I want to head on the lake, and head out with my ATV tracks and go back and forth a few times and essentially create a path that then seems to allow it to move good. Kind of like what you're doing with the little groomer idea, but I'm using the size of the 4 tracks to do it. I figured my last step (before deciding to get a little smaller unit) would be raise it somewhat, in a way that won't be adding any meaningful weight. We all know these houses seem to gain weight pretty quick as we tinker with them. It's kind of become rule #1, keep the weight down at all cost.
  13. Hey Guys.......... I've decided after a few years of testing that the low ride height of my Soderbloom Aluma-Lite 8' x 10' (with a 2' V) skid house is getting me stuck to often. I've already done a fair amount of re-engineering some things to overcome the problem, but in then end my only option left is to raise it up to an acceptable level. A couple details to know are that I do have the older ski style (not the newer box tube skis), and I pull it with a 600cc atv with tracks. What does everyone feel is an acceptable maximum step height to raise it to? What heights are already on all of your houses? The current height of the floor is about 6 3/4" above the ski bottoms.
  14. I also have a DV-215 and I kind of thought I was also having a problem with the 3-5" secondary flame height called out in the install manual. Looking through the vision window, I couldn't see it. I only saw the height that you were seeing, which was really the primary flame height, not the secondary height. I worked through all sorts of things on my end trying to make sure everything was up to spec. I replaced the regulator at the tank. I took all sorts of stuff apart and cleaned it. Checked my rubber hose for proper size (3/8") and it was clear inside. I manifolded my 2 - 20# tanks into one to make sure I was sending an adequate amount of boiled off LP gas volume to the furnace in the cold temps. I made a Manometer to check the inches of water column reading coming into the furnace's gas valve and also what was exiting the gas valve, just before it entered the burner area. Everything continued to check out. In the end, a conversation I had with Empire stated that the 3-5" secondary flame height that is realistically visable through that window is almost impossible to see......you probably are OK at what you are seeing. I had no past experience with these types of heaters and I guess I always thought it would throw more heat, so that kind of kept me chasing deeper and deeper to find a problem, but I don't think a problem really ever existed. They take a little time to heat up and start "radiating"" some heat, or you can put in the fan kit and start getting more heat out of it a little quicker.
  15. Hey Guys.......... For those of you that have done your version of mods to these cases to prevent the unit from falling out the front, would you be able to post a couple pics showing how you did it. I'm sure not all of you have done it quite the same, so there are probably a couple versions that would work. If there is some sewing involved, I only want to give it one try and done. Thanks.
  16. Is the camera that comes with the LX-9 considered Marcum's best camera? Or do some of their upper end "camera only" models have an even better grade camera? I'm hoping that buy getting their LX-9, I got their best camera available?
  17. Thanks for the responses guys.........I wish I didn't have to initially light the pilot through the window, but I've never been successful in using the snap igniter idea. It seems like it takes quite awhile to purge the LP line before it could light, so I'd have to be punching that thing for awhile before it would go.after the LP finally got there. Is there a safety factor I'm not aware of to just light the pilot through that open window? It's closed back up before I let the burner come online. We've all lit pilot lights over the years without worrying about a questionable safety factor?
  18. I have an Empire DV-215 heater and have always found it easier and quicker to take off the viewing/ observation cover and light the pilot. That gasket gets pretty brittle and fragile very quick and is hard to keep handling without it getting wrecked. Has anyone found a more durable material to cut one from that will survive repeated handling and of coarse the heat involved?
  19. See their page for the infamous long awaited digital updates!!
  20. The Menards I've been in have 4'x8' sheets of black 1/4" HDPE on the rack already, and you can pretty quickly order in other thicknesses and another color (white I think). Easy for you to check out locally as I know you have a Menards in Rhinelander.
  21. I don't know if it's considered near metro, but call Voyager aluminum…they also make the Yetti fish houses.
  22. Hey MySnoPro........... Now that the season is about over, would you be able to share a little more info on your conversion? Maybe a part #, etc. from that parts store? In general, how it ended up working out. Like any fish house working off a 12 volt grid, the goal is to try and find a motor that is real power efficient, quiet, but still gets the job done. I'm guessing you can't be as picky with this type of blower motor, like a person tries to be when picking out those PC fans used to move air around in a fish house. I don't already have the 110volt blower kit, so I'd have to first buy that, then immediately set the 110volt motor aside (and probably never use it again) and swap in a 12 volt motor. I wish I didn't have to pre-invest in the 110 volt motor first, but I don't know of any other way to get the process started. I don't think Empire will sell the kit, less the 110 volt motor. Anyway...just looking for whatever you can more offer. It seems I never stop thinking of more ways to tinker with the ice shanty. Thanks.
  23. +1 what Gus said Pro1 T771
  24. Here's what Marcum told me a few months ago when I asked about an update, seeing they haven't done one for to long of a time. "You’ll be glad to know that we are going to release new software versions this winter. Probably around December 1, but I’m not sure. I doubt that the new software will add any features, but will improve performance."
  25. Hey Guys.......... I'm thinking hard about adding one of the larger, true 12 volt TVs (28"-32"), but I'm wondering how a mounted TV handles the bouncing a skid house goes through as it moves to many spots throughout the day on a lake....especially one that may not have alot of snow cover. Can I leave it mounted as I move around? I can't image having to take it down every time I fire the ATV up to move my 8x10 aluminum hardside skidhouse. Who has run this scenario through the ringer? I feel this question is more applicable to a skidhouse, as the wheelhouses have their suspensions that clearly absorb a lot of that bouncing around a skid house goes through. On a side note, I'm thinking of the true 12volt designed TVs (Jensen or Majestic) not just because they draw a lot less power than your normal big box store 110V version on an inverter, but also because they're described as being designed for the additional abuse a TV goes through in the RV or Marine environments. Maybe that's why they'd survive the bouncing around better? If any of you have decided that leaving it while traveling around is working, are you using a fixed mounting bracket, or is one of the swinging mounts also an option that can be swung into place and locked? It's a big investment, so I'd really like to hear from you guys that know all about this firsthand. Thanks.........
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