Advice on restoring oxidized fiberglass

[Dooley87]

My grandpa owns a 1984 ranger 335v that he bought new, lets just say he was more focused on fishing then waxing the boat, we had it parked next to another ranger similar year and model that looked gorgeous, he told me with a wet sand and some buffing the boat would look like new again, all he said was to start with 800 grit and work your way up to 1500 then buff and polish. Does anyone have a process for doing this or any tips or good products, I'm sure it's been talked about before but don't feel like sifting through old posts.

[PurpleFloyd]

Try this:

[leech~~]

I worked in Fiberglass for 20 years and I will tell you to take it very easy when sanding on any metal flake surfaces. Use a rubber flat sanding block and wet sand with the highest number sheet you can get away with. 800 to 1500 is right. If you go through the clear coat, you will end up with a Sliver spot, no matter what color your metal flake boat color is.

I use to build Bass boats and Bradly GT metal flake cars if you had ever seen the kit cars they use to put on VW's a while back. Good luck and go SLOW! in the flake areas.

[Dooley87]

I think most of the boat is salvageable but there are 2 areas right next to both windshields where it's rough and it has lighter color then the rest of the boat, I'm assuming the clear coat is gone in these spots, is there anything I can do there? Do I avoid sanding those spots all together? I don't want to spend too much money on a full restoration or anything at this point just make it look better then its current state. Did see a post in a Texas forum where a guy restored a 1986 373v and man did it look sweet afterwards, cost him around 19k to do though.

[leech~~]

Once the clear coat is worn down that area is done unless you bring it in or know how to over spray clear coat which is a tough thing to do if you never have. Even when you over spray an area you still have to sand it down before buffing it out and that is where most people run into an issue making a big silver circle around the repair spot trying to blend it in with the older thin layer. If the clear coat is really worn you will actually see little bumpy spots sticking up in the glare of a light as the metal doesn't buff flat. But, what the heck, it's an older boat so you may as well give it a try. Just sand a little on a spot, try a buff out and sand a little more and buff again. Good Luck.

[Dooley87]

Thanks leech, one day in the future I'm sure I'll end up getting deeper into a restoration on the boat, I'll look at it closer next time I'm up north, say that in those spots the clear is gone and the flake is sticking out what would you suggest and keep in mind I'm on a budget, should I just sand and buff around those areas and leave them rough and oxidized looking, sand and buff everything and get the silver look your talking about or buy a special paint gun and clear and try to clear those areas then sand and buff? If I was to spray a clear would it hurt to clear the whole thing before I sand incase there are some thin spots? Thanks for your help. Going to try and make it a little winter project.

[PurpleFloyd]

I use to build Bass boats and Bradly GT metal flake cars if you had ever seen the kit cars they use to put on VW's a while back.

That is cool.

[Dooley87]

I'm more of a metal fabricating guy and not too knowledgable on body work, not that I can't do it just never have, spent the last few days at work polishing my welds on brushed stainless, not fun but looks nice.

[leech~~]

There are a lot of good videos on the Tube to watch on how to repair and buff out fiberglass, but some of them are just hacks! I would watch a bunch of them until you start to see a pattern that a lot of them are all using.

Two things that I see people doing that is wrong.

When buffing, do not pile the compound onto the buffer pad! Spread it on the repair surface lightly and work the buffer in and out of the compound. Why use a clean soft wool pad if you are only going to pack it up with compound. You may as well just use a piece of leather with the compound smeared on it! The clean wool with a little compound is what builds the heat needed to make it shine!

Also, on a boat. Never use "Bondo" body filler.

That is for car bodies that are not going to take a pounding from waves. Refill damage areas with the same things that came out of it! Resin and fiber if you want a solid repair that is going to take a beating!

[IL Res]

Before you get in too deep, I would suggest 3M #09005 Marine Restorer & Wax. Retails for less than $20. You have a small boat. OMIT THE BUFFER!! and apply by hand only w/ wet cheesecloth. Test on small inconspicuous area of the metal flake. I have a 34' and it takes less than a day to do hull and superstructure w/ 1 bottle by hand. I think you'll be pleased w/ results and you can't beat the price.