Diagnosing bad bearing or CV joint.

[DTro]

I have a vibration on my 4Runner that is present when slightly cornering to the left. The vibration is coming from the drivers side. I did the brakes the other day as these 4Runners are notorious for frozen calipers (yes they were both frozen) and was hoping that was the problem. During this repair I discovered a torn boot on the drivers inner side axle.

From what I've read a bad CV is more of a clicking noise, but this noise I'm getting is more of a groaning/vibration when pressure is applied left to steering. When I turn slightly to the right, it stops.

It seems to be getting worse and now the vibration is present even when going straight down the road.

Is there a way to confirm if this is a bad CV or bad bearing? I planned on just replacing the entire half shaft, but afraid the noise I'm hearing might be a bad bearing instead.

[Macgyver55]

Your description sounds more like a bad hub and bearing to me, but its the perfect time to replace the shaft while you have it apart.

[Jeremy airjer W]

I would have to agree.

[DTro]

Thanks guys.

[DTro]

So, I’m fairly certain I have a bad bearing as the symptoms and play I’ve discovered lead to that.

 

Here is my question for anyone who might now.  This is an ’03 4Runner (4WD).

 

The bearing is part of an assy that looks fairly easy to remove with the hub.  How do I separate the hub from that bearing assy?  From the research I’ve done I might need a press to do this which also involves installing new seals, etc. Is this correct?  When I do a search at auto parts warehouses, I get a part that they call hub/bearing assy yet the picture doesn’t show the actual hub (with new wheel studs).    The price here varies from $70-$150 for this bearing assy.

 

I’ve also found a guy online (bluepitbearrings) that sells the entire hub with this assy pressed in and already to go, so it is a fairly simple remove and bolt on.  The price here is $250.

 

Am I reading this right? Or is the assy I’m finding at local parts stores here the same thing (bolt on).

 

Thanks for any inf

[Jeremy airjer W]

It looks like it is a bolt on wheel bearing. If you get the hub/bearing assembly the hub should be pressed into the bearing right out of the box. Remove the caliper, rotor, and axle nut. TIP; before removing the caliper place a couple of lug nuts back onto the studs and tighten. place a punch into the fins of the rotor so the punch locks the rotor from turning by resting on the caliper. Then remove the axle nut. Do the same when you tighten the axle nut to the proper torque. Unbolt the wheel bearing and remove.

Another tip, remove the bolt that holds the bracket for the brake hose to the knuckle carefully (sometimes they break) or remove the clip that holds the brake hose to the bracket (sometimes they are slotted and the brake line can be fed through the slot) this will allow more flexibility in getting the caliper out of the way.

[DTro]

Ok thanks Jeremy.

 

The video you shared is the bluepitbearings guy I referred to.   It sounds like he is a Toyota tech who buys the components (hub/bearing) and then presses them for you. Does that make sense?

 

I understand that the assy that I can go and buy at Autozone or whatever has the bearing pressed into it, but then how does it attach to the hub?  Does that have to be pressed out/in as well?

 

From my understanding, to use my old hubs, I will need to have someone do the press work for me.  Is that correct?  

 

This is the only part I can find at local stores for under $100

And the bluepitbearing for $240

[Jeremy airjer W]

I guess I don't know. I would see if a parts store has the hub and bearing in stock. If it is assembled right out of the box (normal for an assembly) than your good to go.

If it comes in two pieces than the new hub will need to be pressed into the new bearing. Sometimes the hub will wear out and cuase the bearing failure. This is really common in nissans. The hub will literally fall out of the bearing and it should be pressed fit.

If the hub is not pressed into the new bearing and you decide to just replace the bearing than you will need to bring the old hub/bearing to a machine shop to have the hub swapped.

I think I would look at the part first and then decide. Like I said if it is assembled your good to go. I would not shop with your checkbook. Look how long the original lasted. It may be a good option. I have had really good luck with the SKF brand of aftermarket bearings. A NAPA premium would likely be an SKF. Less expensive bearings, especially in domestic vehicles, have proven not to be a good choice. Typically you will start to see play in less than a year.

[DTro]

I've heard good things about the Timken so I might try those.

Thanks Jeremy

[DTro]

Just wanted to follow up on this.  It was indeed a bearing that was bad.   I didn’t want to mess around with finding someone to press the old one out of the hub and the new one in and maybe risk a damaged or bad hub in the process and instead of paying $240 for a new one from that guy on 3bay I found a used one for $80.    There is the outfit in St Cloud called Pams auto that had one with 30k miles on it.  I figured I got 180k on the old one so this shouldn’t be a high risk, plus they offer a lifetime warranty on their bearings.  If anyone needs a used part, that place was very impressive and I have a feeling I’ll be ordering more things from them.

 

I also wanted to mention that 99.9% of everything I read said that you can locate a bad bearing by determining which way you steer to make the sound go away. In other words when you take the load off and the sound goes away then that is the side with the bad bearing.  Well mine was exactly opposite, it was on the driver’s side and when I turned right (put load on that wheel) the sound would go away

[Jeremy airjer W]

Some fords are like that also. Load on the bearing noise goes away. Always raises an eyebrow on a test drive.