Major problems again

[20lbSloughShark]

My 1984 40 hp Johnson is having major problems again. I think I know why it was running so bad last fall, it has ZERO spark now. I pulled it out today figured its rough running was bad plugs and put brand new ones in. I gave about 50 pulls and gave up. Even after priming and pumping as much as I could, the plugs were dry as a bone. So the carbs might have issues again. I put seafoam in the gas and ran it before I put it way in november. To try and get it working I put gas directly into each hole and had no sputter or anything. I pulled the plugs and tried multiple times but no spark. I put the electric tester on volts and tried the plug wires, coils, and the plug coming from the cdi (i tried the prongs in as many combinations as possible) and I couldn't get a reading anywhere. So my first question is how do I correctly test a CDI box? I even tried the tester on a 1981 25hp evinrude and I got readings out the plug wires, so it works. Compression is fine, top is 155'ish psi, bottom is about 160 psi. Good thing I bought the cheap gear lube today, because the moment this thing runs again, I'm selling it. I get to start my fishing season for the 3rd season in a row with my trusty 1972 18 hp evinrude converted to long shaft.

[fishingstar]

Does it have a saftey lanyard? If it does these switches are normally OPEN to allow the engine to run. When "off ", they close a ground circuit to kill the spark.

[TyGuy02]

I don't know how to help you start the motor, have had my issues with a small outboard like that for several years and finally ditched it. But go get a socket the same size as the nut on the top of the cord winder. Then you can just use a cordless or corded drill to start it much easier. My arm almost fell off a few years ago and I was told of that strategy to crank a motor

[clKiekhafer]

I don't know how to help you start the motor, have had my issues with a small outboard like that for several years and finally ditched it. But go get a socket the same size as the nut on the top of the cord winder. Then you can just use a cordless or corded drill to start it much easier. My arm almost fell off a few years ago and I was told of that strategy to crank a motor

That is a nice idea!

[boatfixer]

1st off, as mentioned above, make sure the kill switch is in the correct position.

There is not a test for the power pack itself. You have to test everything around it and rule out the other components. Most of these parts cost quite a bit, so it's very important to test in a systemic method. To do this properly and with confidence, you need to this with 1 or 2 methods. 1 is with a peak reading type meter (direct voltage adapter DVA) to measure peak voltage (230 +) or using an ohm meter to measure resistance and to check for opens and grounded circuits.

You can pm me your email if u want the test specs

[20lbSloughShark]

Well I don't think a drill will be able to turn the motor over, at least not any cordless we have. It might work for a smaller engine, but I can pull start it just fine, well when it ran anyway. It doesn't have any safety switches that I know of, no lanyard shut off, and to turn it off is just a button in the handle. I disconnected what I believed to be the shut off and there was no change. I'll just have to test it completely.

[EBass]

Sounds like the Electronic Control Module/switch box fried?

[20lbSloughShark]

Thank you very much boat fixer. I tested ohms before the CDI and it was good, and after had nothing. I'll be ordering a new one, hopefully it is all I need.

[boatfixer]

Anytime. Glad to help in anyway

[20lbSloughShark]

Yup, CDI. It started in 3 pulls, but its idle knocked over my pop, and my tool box. Now I remember why I hated it so much, its not reliable, not that powerful for its weight, and its idle has popped rivets out of the boat. BTW its probably for sale, I'll check to make sure tonight.