Tip-Ups 101: How to line the rig help

[deerminator]

I should add that when I say spool her up, I mean with a 50 yard spool of line. At least that's how I buy them from the farm and have never had issues with it being too much on the frabils. Canopy Sam gives good advice. Take your time and you learn from trial and error. But I did think that law on treble hooks had been abolished this year, at least if you look at the reg book? I dont think you need a blade anymore?

[Tom7227]

When you are setting up the tip up are you supposed to hook the line into the restricted part of the wire arm by the reel? Isn't that what prevents the sucker from pulling off line and tripping the flag? Seems like it's a pain on the ones that have a ring instead of just an L with a another piece coming down that makes a bobby pin like setup.

[Walleye Guy]

Canopy: Deerminator is correct. The law changed this year. You can use a treble hook on your line without a bead or a blade.

If you are planning to release the fish you catch on a tip-up, trebles (walleye or pike) or quick strikes rigs (generally pike only) allow you to set the hook right away and lessen the chances of a deeply hooked fish. You can set the hook ast the fish is running.

[CANOPY SAM]

Wow! Thanks for the clarification. I didn't even realize this.

That being said, I've found from years of experience, and trial and error, adding a flasher or blade to your line can really work well.

I often add a brightly flashing large yellow, hammered gold, or silver blade about a foot and a half above the bait (as part of the overall rubber coated wire leader and quick strike rig). As a large sucker or shiner lazily swims and wiggles below, this blade will wobble and turn with the movement of the minnow. You can actually see it catch light and sparkle in the water...particularly hammered gold and silver.

I really believe this helps roaming pike and other predators home in on a bait.

I wouldn't use this set-up for smaller fish. For walleyes I'd go with a very natural presentation, much lighter line (no wire leader), and only a nice fat, lively bait.

I believe the T-bar (top most part of the spindle) set above the flag itself is essentially what holds the bait at the desired depth. The L wire alongside the spool only acts to keep the line winding smoothly off of, and onto the spool, and prevents it from looping up and tangling.

With most tip-ups, there are two sides to a T-bar. One with a notch in the center, and the other that is typically smooth.

When using large, aggressive baits, it's often best to set the flag in the notched side of the T-bar. A really big sucker minnow (7-10 inches) can still occasionally pop this free, so you may have to tighten the spindle nut (I believe this is the top nut above the spring on the spindle) which makes the spindle a bit more sluggish to turn, and prevents really large baits from tripping your flags.

With smaller baits, for walleyes for example, I set my flag under the smooth side of the T-bar. A large chub or medium shiner doesn't have the "oomph" to trigger the flag, but a solid walleye strike will easily pull the T-bar free of the flag.

Also, with presentations for smaller fish, you really have to adjust the spring tension nut to allow for easier outflow of line. Before you go out, fiddle around with all the gizmos, wingnuts, etc. on your tip-ups so you understand what each of these items do to make the system work properly. Having everything set ahead of the trip can save a lot of headaches trying to get everything to work out in the cold.

Does that make sense?

As I look at the Frabil tip-up pictured perhaps there is no tension spring present with this model? I don't own one. Is there a way to adjust tension with this model?

[deerminator]

Canopy Sam brings up a good point. Don't be afraid to try some tip ups for walleye or panfish action. I’ve been tying a 2lb fluorocarbon leader onto the end of the braided line with a tiny glow jig and a shiner. I got a 3 pound pike on that set-up the other day and while hoisting it up the hole, sure enough, he broke the line. I shot my entire arm down the hole and retrieved him. Not sure I’d do that again. It was almost instinct.

[masoct3]

Thank you so much everyone. This is so helpful!

I hope I catch a big one!

[northerndave]

I'm going to expand on Sam's tips about the notched T-bar for big live baits that like to trip the flag (false flag)

If you get bait from a shop that uses those heavy green donut shaped rubber bands, (castrator bands for the farmers out there)

Save them bands, put a few in your tackle box.

They fit really nice on the t-bar for the tip up. Set your flag stem under the T-bar slot like you would normally, then slip one of those green bands onto the end of the t-bar.

I hope I'm explaining this right.

Basically you end up with a grippy green rubber bumper on the T-bar that has to climb over the flag stem.

It works really well, hope I splained it right.