Fuel pump and power question

[hitthebricks]

Still having problems with the Olds Intrigue. Tomorrow I'm going to check power to to the FP. Question is, When I turn the ignition should I have constant power to the fuel pump?

Thanks

HTB

[JOHNBIGDOG]

Generaly the pcm will "prime" the fuel attempt then shut off. till the pcm sees the engine rpm signal hit a specific value.

So two person operation, one turns the key on and the other watches the mutiny meter. Unless your a super tech, and can do both at once.

[Jeremy airjer W]

You should have power for 3-5 seconds when you turn the key to the run position. There should be power all the time when the engine is cranking.

[Whoaru99]

So two person operation, one turns the key on and the other watches the mutiny meter. Unless your a super tech, and can do both at once.

Or unless you have a Fluke 233 meter.

Fluke 233

[hitthebricks]

Opened the access panel to the fuel pump and found seven wires connected to it. Checked all wires to the pump for power when the key was turned to the on position. The purple wire was the only one with any voltage and that had only 4.9 volts for 3-5 seconds. Never tried checking for voltage when cranking the starter. Any ideas whats the cause?

HTB

[Jeremy airjer W]

Our local libraries have alldata for free. They only charge you for the printing of the pages.

I'm going to suggest you get the engine performance diagrams and the power distribution diagrams for this car. About 10 pages give or take.

Off the top of my head you should have had one four pin connector and one three pump connector. The four pin should have had a grey, purple, black, and either black or orange? The grey wire is power to the fuel pump. The purple wire is the power to the sending unit.

Your next step is to find the fuel pump relay. Make sure it has power on two pins and ground on one pin all the time and ground on the other when cranking. If your missing a power than its either a fuse or something you did when you removed the remote start and/or an issue with the ignition switch.

Having the diagrams will help you understand how power is routed to the pump.

Or I'm just a short drive away from oakdale and we could probably figure this out in about 20 minutes?

[hitthebricks]

Checked the relay power and only have power to one pin. I also swapped the relay with one from the burb.

When the ignition is turned on the gauges will register for a few seconds then just go dead or sometimes not register at all. Sometime when the key is turned all the accessory and warning lights come on and sometime only a few.

Jeremy if your offer still stands I sure could use help anytime your available.

[Jeremy airjer W]

651-four two eight-3049

I'm heading out to some fishing in a bit but I can swing buy on my way back this evening.

[Jeremy airjer W]

The more I think about it the more I am convinced it is the ignition switch. There are only a couple of things you need to check. With the switch plugged in make sure there is power on both the red wires. The dark green wire and the orange wire (there should be two side by side, the one closest to the red wire should be the PIN B orange wire) are the two you need to check with the switch in the run or crank position. If there is no power on either one of those but there is always power on the two red wires with the switch in the run or crank position than the switch is the problem.

The dark green wire supplies power the the instrument cluster. If there is no power there than that would explain the lack of bulb check with the key turned on. This also supplies a power to the PCM which I believe is the power the PCM uses to supply power to the coil side of the fuel pump relay (which there is no power at).

The orange wire supplies power to the crank fuse. Among other things the PCM looks for this input to know when you want to start the car and then supplies ground to the crank relay (it also needs the correct security info).

Wiggling the key to get the instrument cluster to light up and the one time we heard the fuel pump prime all seam to point at the switch.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Make sure you check the pink wire also. This also supplies power to the instrument cluster fuse, PCM, ignition main relay and the crank relay.

[hitthebricks]

Jeremy, first off, thank you very much for you time today! I need to digest the diagrams you posted at this point and a day or two to get the ignition out to make a educated checks and tests for this.

Thanks again and will reply soon,

HTB

[hitthebricks]

Jeremy, I checked the wires on the ignition tonight. two reds, orange, pink and green all had power with key on, yellow had power with key in start position.

Green wire had 1/2 volt less than the others and after the key was turned to start it had 3 volts less

Now I'm really stumped.

HTB

[Jeremy airjer W]

That's good. Make sure both red wires have battery power with the key in the start position. If both reds check out than your losing the voltage through the ignition switch. Extra resistance in the switch equals less voltage out.

If either of the red wires is losing voltage with the key in the start position than there is extra resistance in the wiring to the switch. Corroded wires would be my first guess. Well get into that, if we need to, later.

[hitthebricks]

Yes, both reds have power in the start position.

The problem is the ignition switch?

HTB

[Jeremy airjer W]

I believe the ignition.switch is the issue.

I assume the bulb check was good when you checked?

The lack of bulb check and the info about the key being really touchy before all this started leads me to believe is at least one of the issues if not the main issue.

[hitthebricks]

Which part of the ignition would I replace? The metal part the key goes in or the plastic assembly that all the wires are connected to.

What is a bulb check?

HTB

[Jeremy airjer W]

Bulb check is when all the warning lights in the dash light up for a couple of seconds.

The end with the wires is the ignition switch. I think the lock cylinder (the part he key fits into) fits into the ignition switch. Should be about $100 from NAPA.

[Macgyver55]

This one is not the easiest to remove since it is mounted in the dash.

I believe you have to remove the radio, the HVAC control head and the instrument panel cluster just to access it. Once it is loose you will have to insert the key and turn the ignition switch lock cylinder to the ACC position and remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch by depressing the retaining tab and pulling the cylinder out with the key. After that step you will need to unplug the wiring but remember the pass lock electrical connector can not be removed until the ignition switch lock cylinder is removed.

Once you get all the connectors unplugged you should be home free.

You will also have to transfer the passlock module to the new ignition because they are separate parts.

[Scott K]

If you search youtube "How to replace ignition switch in (name your make, model, year)"

There are many videos on how to replace them.

[hitthebricks]

I think Jeremy is right on with his diagnostics. I have replaced the ignition switch and the car started and ran during the short period I had to test it.

When I get everything back together today I will know for sure!

HTB

[hitthebricks]

The replacement of the switch was not that hard since I already had to remove the switch so I could do the voltage tests. The toughest problem was reassembling the dash parts.

Thanks again Jeremy, great job with the diagnostics. The car runs great, just like it should.

Now to replace the trashed struts and other stuff on a car way past due.

Thanks again everyone for all your input.

HTB

[Jeremy airjer W]

Fantastic!