Decal Question

[clKiekhafer]

I've been trying to put some of the water slide decals on some of the rods that I've build and I'm having trouble with them not sticking done. I wrap the ends with thread but the sides seem to lift when applying rod build causing it to seep under, but I check the edges with my pick and they seem to be adhered down. I was wondering if anyone else has used them and what kind of experiences you have been having. I'm looking for some pointers or another direction I should go.

Thanks and have a nice holiday season!

[upnorth]

I have not used water slides, but other seem to work best when the edges were burnished a bit and then thin coat of CP to seal thing. CP tends to dry much quicker than epoxy and also seals things a little.

[clKiekhafer]

Thanks upnorth.

I'll try that out and see how it works.

P.S.

How much snow do you have up there?

Thanks

[harvey lee]

Many times I use Micro Set on the rod blank, then put the decal down. You can also brush a small amount over the decal and then let it dry.

The Micro Set also makes it alot easier to move the decal if needed on the rod blank.

Then I go over that with CP and then epoxy.

Never 1 issue with this method.

[clKiekhafer]

First, I want to thank everyone that has provided me with some help!

I've gotten quite good at placement of the adhesive back labels that come with the rod blank so I was looking for a similar option for making labels. I came across this option and was wondering if anyone has tried using the product Plant Label (http://www.planetlabel.com/labels/by_size/inkjet-laser) product. They provide a large range of label color options was well as clear and backside black-out. They have options that work with either laser and or inkjet printers.

(If I posted the above link in error of the rules please forgive me.)

[harvey lee]

I have Chad Huderle from Huderle Custom rods do all my decals and names.

Chad is very reasonable and has very good service.

I looked into doing them myseldf but if I have 40-50 decals made a year, easier for me to just shoot Chad and e-mail and then they are here before I know it.

Check out Chads HSOforum or give Chad a call. Chad can make I believe about anything you would like.

[Smoker]

For peel and stick decals I use Decal Connection. 3-4 days to get them in the mail.

[clKiekhafer]

I have to agree with you Harvey that Chad does some really nice work, but I would like to do the work myself even though it may not be to the same standard that Chad has. To me it is a pride thing that I can do it myself. I have the time (retired) to learn new things and this is one of the hobbies that I picked up this past year (rod building). I've gotten the decal material and my graphics all worked out, it just a matter of mastering the application. I'm sure I would need help with that even if I purchased them from Chad.

I certainly appreciate everyone's input and look forward to some more advice.

[clKiekhafer]

Smoker,

Are you saying that Decal Connection provides you with the finished decal and then you apply it or are you saying that they provide the materials in 3-4 days to make your out decals? I just wasn't clear on what you were saying.

[harvey lee]

The Micro set really helped me to get my decals on straight and with zero wrinkles.

[clKiekhafer]

The Micro set really helped me to get my decals on straight and with zero wrinkles.

Thanks Harvey,

The problem that I'm having is edge lifting when I apply the rod build. What are you doing to ours to not have that problem? I put my decal directly on the rod, no CP and no bod build under it.

[harvey lee]

I had a few edges lift a time or two.

I do not know why, maybe I got the decal too wet and removed some of the adheasive on the back by moving it around too much. Don't know.

Now I clean the area with some denatured alcohol, then apply some Micro set with a small brush where the decal will go. Then I apply the decal and then apply a small amount of micro set over the decal when I have it in the spot I want it. Then after the micro set has dried, I put some CP on the decal. Then after that is dry, some epoxy.

I am not sure that I would have to use any CP but what I am doing seems to really work great.

Seems like alot to do but I get the decals on nicely and exactly where I want them with zero issues. With the Micro set, if I have a difficult location to apply the decal, the micro set really helps to allow me to move it around on the blank or whatever I am putting it on.

This stuff was made for the model industry to apply decals.

CP=color preserver.

[Smoker]

If it is a name they will print it out for you. Some times I will use there web site and sometimes I will call them if I need it made with a differant color. They have made logos for me before when a couple companies wanted there logo on the rod. Good people to to work with. The lettering you can get in differant metalic colors. I believe it is $3.75 each decal and 90cents for shipping. They also have supplies to print your own. The materal is a little thicker but it only takes a nother coat of finish to make it smooth.

[clKiekhafer]

Thanks both Harvey & Smoker, your help has been great. I'm glad that at least one other person had an issue similar to mine, sorry about that Harvey.

Harvey, I see that is a "Micro Set" and a "Micro Sol" solution. Have you every used the Micro Sol after the decal has been applied? It sounds like it might melt the decal slightly to make it adhere to the surface.

Thanks Again to both of you. I feel like I might have a better handle on applying decals with a little bit of practice.

[harvey lee]

Yes, it softens the decal to get it to lay perfect. Just make sure you follow the directions, pretty simply and make sure you let it dry well.

Takes a little more time to go this avenue but it turns out nice and I have had zero issues using this product.

[luckycrank]

I have tried the decal connection labels and also purchased ink jet sheets also

I have had lifting issues during finishing never tried microsol however

I have recently tried a new method ( not really new but a new twist to it any way).

I went to Wal mart and bought clear mylar sheet protectors, cut them 8.5 by 11.

Run them through the printer with a piece of transparent tape attached where I want to print.

(you can find out where by trial and error on normal paper as a proof) .

you need to allow drying time after printing and apply a finish to it before removal, I use clear nail polish from the sheet but when done right nothing but the print or Image can be seen . F.y.i don't attempt this on a laser printer . heat causes problems with the mylar and can ruin your printer.

[clKiekhafer]

luckycrank,

Thanks for that helpful suggestion. It is very clever and worth further investigation.

Happy Holidays!

[harvey lee]

Lucky

The Microsol works great to keeping the edges down while you place the epoxy over the decal.

I believe the nicest part of the stuff is how it makes the decal lay so even and if one has to move it to get it centered perfectly, it gives one the added time with no damage to the decal.

[clKiekhafer]

I'd like to thank upnorth, HarveyLee, Smoker and Luckycrank for providing some very helpful information on using decals. I'm sure if others needed some help with decals in the future and did a search this thread will pop-up and help them out.

Thanks!

[luckycrank]

are we talking water slide decals or adhesive ?

I think I run into problems because Ive only used em on ice blanks and there small diameter allows the adhesive ones to lift while drying

[clKiekhafer]

are we talking water slide decals or adhesive ?

I think I run into problems because Ive only used em on ice blanks and there small diameter allows the adhesive ones to lift while drying

I started the thread referring to water slide decals and the problems that I was having.

[clKiekhafer]

I had a few edges lift a time or two.

I do not know why, maybe I got the decal too wet and removed some of the adheasive on the back by moving it around too much. Don't know.

Now I clean the area with some denatured alcohol, then apply some Micro set with a small brush where the decal will go. Then I apply the decal and then apply a small amount of micro set over the decal when I have it in the spot I want it. Then after the micro set has dried, I put some CP on the decal. Then after that is dry, some epoxy.

I am not sure that I would have to use any CP but what I am doing seems to really work great.

Seems like alot to do but I get the decals on nicely and exactly where I want them with zero issues. With the Micro set, if I have a difficult location to apply the decal, the micro set really helps to allow me to move it around on the blank or whatever I am putting it on.

This stuff was made for the model industry to apply decals.

CP=color preserver.

harvey lee,

I wanted to thank you (and others) for your help with applying water-slide decals. I make two decals when I need them and this time was no exception. When I applied the micro sol solution the decal wanted to distort. I think it has to do with the clear coat I apply to the decal to protect the ink. So the second decal came into play. this time I applied the micro set like before in the area where the decal is to be placed. I applied a small amount of CP on the decal edges, but prior to that I used a cotton tip to make sure all of the air pockets were pushed out. I had no edge lift on this decal.

[harvey lee]

Good to hear you have it all working now.

[A.W.Wolfram]

are we talking water slide decals or adhesive ?

I think I run into problems because Ive only used em on ice blanks and there small diameter allows the adhesive ones to lift while drying

Now I know the issue...

Ice blanks = Good luck for water slides and adhesives.

I put 3 coats of CP on and label I put on. CP will not pop the label and you can see the problem areas when you apply the first coat. It will fish eye. Coat it till you stop getting fish eyes and you epoxy will turn out great.

[bltbowhunter]

I've been trying to make my own decals and apply them to ice blanks with little success. I made my own using clear inkjet printable labels. The decals have only been words, (peoples names and rod size etc.) I've been using Size 8 or 9 font to get the right size. I've tried cutting the decal so it is just as tall as the lettering. When I do this, it doesn't adhere to the rod, so I tried cutting them so that they would wrap around the rod more, and they would lift on the edges with that method as well. I've been putting the decals over light colored thread because you can't read them on the black rod blank. I just ordered water slide paper and I plan on trying that, but was wondering if you guys wrap the decal all the way around the rod or if you cut it so it's the same size as the lettering. I'm going to try to get a bottle of micro set to see if that will work for me. Does the micro set or the CP just act as an adhesive, or does it make the decal more pliable?