Which Do You Use and Why

[clKiekhafer]

I was wondering what everyone uses for rod finish, two part or the one part epoxy? I've been using the two part by Flex-coat but was wondering how the one part compares. I've also been using the high build and was wondering what others thought about the low build stuff.

[Eric_Kruger]

i have a bottle coming in my next order of the one part, plan on giving it a try, I also ordered the new prokote high build to see how it is.

[luckycrank]

I have used a few differant products. including high build by flex coat

but feel that RodDancer two part is my favorite

[Mike Wallace]

The U-40 PermaGloss has it's place. It's finish is so thin, that it looks like all you have is color preserver on it. That being said, there is a place for it in how I build. I like it on ice rods or if I need to make a quick repair. It sets in about 2 hours under the right conditions (it's curing is triggered by moisture, I believe, so warm and humid speeds up curing and cool and dry slows it a bit).

Different to apply, too. If you choose to use some, read up on application techniques.

[clKiekhafer]

I have used a few differant products. including high build by flex coat

but feel that RodDancer two part is my favorite

Why do you feel that RodDancer is your favorite? Is it easier to apply or provides a more foolproof finish (appearance)?

[Brad B]

I use B&D Classic Coat 2 part (High Build). I may try others at some point but have had good results with the classic coat.

[upnorth]

I have tried classic coat low build and flex coat high build. Both worked well, the high build seemed to have more issues with bubbles at least for me. I like a nice flat finish with no bulge so I would rather do 2 coat with low build than 1 coat of high build.

Edit--- As most if not all popular thread epoxy works well, I suggest pick one and get familiar with its quirks and what works best with that solution.

1 thing I have ran into is I work down in the basement and the temp is pretty cool. Epoxy doesn't work nears as well in the low 60s as it does in the middle 70s or higher. Warming the epoxy in warm water prior to use and maybe a heater during the curing process helps a lot as far as allowing it flow, release bubbles and cure.

[clKiekhafer]

Thanks everyone for you comments. I've got the guides looking really well using the FlexCoat high bond. I put on two coat to give it that heavy look. My rod label and sticker is improving with each rod that I do. I've found that I was putting it on too thin and needed to not spread it out too much. I also do the guides one day and then come back to do the label and sticker area the next. I've found that when I try to do it all at once the epoxy starts to thicken up and doesn't lay down as well. I've started to experiment a little with adding a touch of heat when I do the larger areas (label and sticker) to achieve a more uniform appearance. Has anyone else ever tried this and what results have you had? That's why I was looking at something that was maybe a low build or slightly more runnier that flows easier.

Thanks Again Everyone and looking forward to more comments on what I had said about using something slightly more runnier.

[upnorth]

Heat works to help the epoxy flow, level and release bubbles. A word of caution tho, too much heat will boil the epoxy, don't ask how I know this

In reality I use a propane torch on low and hold AT LEAST 6 inches away and keep it moving. You need to watch for a bit cuz it is going to sag and even turning in a turner doesn't work as well as a 180 degree turn and wicking off the bad sags. Two coats like that and you can literally put straight edge on it and no gaps.

Nice flat thread coatings don't come easy.

[clKiekhafer]

Heat works to help the epoxy flow, level and release bubbles. A word of caution tho, too much heat will boil the epoxy, don't ask how I know this

In reality I use a propane torch on low and hold AT LEAST 6 inches away and keep it moving. You need to watch for a bit cuz it is going to sag and even turning in a turner doesn't work as well as a 180 degree turn and wicking off the bad sags. Two coats like that and you can literally put straight edge on it and no gaps.

Nice flat thread coatings don't come easy.

upnorth,

I've used my heat gun to warm the epoxy to allow it to flow.

In your "wicking" step how are removing the extra large sag that develops?

Thanks

[upnorth]

I just use the same brush that I use to apply the epoxy to pick up what sags or droops unevenly off the bottom when I turn it. It takes a few times to get it flow out nice and even. But the epoxy will self level if you work it right, just throwing it in a turner won't really allow it flow out and level itself.

[bobbymalone]

you can put a bit of denatured alcohol in your epoxy to make it a bit thinner. I use threadmaster two part lite build. the alchol seems to help with bubbles too.

I do this for ice rods or in any application where I want a thinner mix.

[upnorth]

This is why I say pick one and learn how it works and how it works in your environment. Warm the stuff acts different than cold. Warm it up it thins out, but starts to cure quicker. I have heard of folks using a couple drops of acetone to thin it a bit too.