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Camera purcahse advice


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Hey guys

So, I have been in the market for a camera. Just a "starter". I wanted to do some research - but to be honest I dont know too much about cameras and so what I would research probably wouldnt mean too much to me anyway!

So, I thought I would cheat and ask for some straight forward advice - dont need to get into too much nitty gritty if you dont want. Just a few standard explanations and a "yeah" or "neh" would be great smile

Looking at Canon.

Was going to go with a T3 with the "regular" lens it comes with 18 to 55. Can get this for 450.00.

They also have a zoom 300M EF on sale for 200.00 and if I buy thye camera I get 150.00 off of that. Total is 500.00 for camera and 2 lens.

BUT...is the "EF model" a crappy model of lens? Even if its on sale I dont want to purchase it if its just a cheapo.

Next question. I then saw a T2i on sale with regular lens for 550.00

so what do you get for that extra "i" in front of the name?

I would think a T3 would be more than a T2i since 3 is still greater than 2...but maybe that "i" adds a lot.

last question, if the "i" adds a lot would you go with a T2i or T3?

Is the T2i worth the extra 100.00

Very last, they have a T3i as well. Now we are talking even more money...I would maybe listen to your advice and go with the T3i if you all say its a "must thing to do" for the extra dough...but was really kind of preferring to stay around that 550.00 to 600.00 range at most.

Thanks for any and all advice!!

Hoffer

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I picked up a T3i body only a year and a half ago and ordered a little higher grade lens seperately (little higher grade than the common kit lens)

I can't remember everything about my decision, but the T3i had a flip viewer which is quite handy for strange angle shots like from the ground looking upward or camera overhead etc. You can flip the viewer so you can see what the cam is aimed at. Also I believe the T3i had an advantage in video capture mode as far as EF being live in vid mode.

Other than that there wasn't much that jumped out at me as far as the advantages. I guess I was looking at T2i and T3i for the most part. I would have loved to get her a 7D but at the time she prefered the compact cam body of the rebel series (plus the 7D was a lot more money)

I went with the 24-105 f/4 EF/IS L series lens with my original purchase for the wife. It's been an amazing lens and remains her favorite even though I've added a couple more lenses since to her cam bag.

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First off don't get to hung up on all the different options. You are looking to spend around $500 to $600 max. That will not buy you an advanced camera or an upgraded lenses. All of these cameras take very nice photos with some practice and experience. That is what a starter is for, learn the basics without getting overwhelmed! So Lets look at your choices.

The The camera's without the "i" are the lower end cameras. The cameras are numbered according to their age, the 1 is the oldest the 2 newer and the 3 newest. The T2i and T3i are nearly identical. They use the same image sensor (18 MP) and processor. One of the main differencea is that the T3i has a swing-out LCD display.

The T2i has been discontinued and replaced by the T3i and the newer T4i. I would not let that bother me if I found a great deal on a T2i. Again video is the main difference between the two cameras, if you shoot a lot of video the T3i would be the winner, for photos the T2i is very good. My own personal thought is I have now separated my video cameras from my still cameras. In a pinch I will shoot a quick clip with a DSLR but much prefer a video camera for...video.

As far as lenses go you are going to be buying entry level lenses in your price range. Nothing wrong with that as you start out. Too many folks buy lenses with out knowing how they will use their camera. Shoot with the entry level lenses and see how your interests develop. I can guarantee that as you advance and decide you need more equipment you will have a better handle on what you will want. The kit lens does a very nice job for its price. The 70-300 you mention is also an entry level zoom. It will do just fine as you are starting out. Keep in mind most lenses that are L or similar grade will start out at what you want to spend on a complete package!

The key is don't spend a lot of money starting out. Stay away from many of the packages that give you cleaning cloth, bags, etc. Most of it is overpriced and you generally will be served well by buying just the basics.

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I certainly agree with Dan on the T3i-2i

A big part of our decision for the 3i was video. Now that we've had the cam for 1.5 yrs we realized we have only shot a few very short video clips but thousands of still photos. The only real difference camera wise is the flippy viewer. That comes in handy now and then but 95% of the time we shoot through the viewfinder, we don't even use live view with the display screen unless it's a tricky overhead or at the ground pointing up type of shot.

And a person can pull off shots like that without a "flippy screen".

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Thanks guys.

If I am reading you right...maybe lean towards the T2i ??

I think I would actually take a good amount of video and the "flip screen" would be cool - but I would have to weight the difference in cost.

With the lens thing...would it then be fair to say to just get the best deal I can on the "starter" zoom lens as far as cost?

Then as time goes by study up and save up for a nicer high end zoom?

Thanks for all the input! Much appreciated.

Hoffer

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Thanks guys.

If I am reading you right...maybe lean towards the T2i ??

I think I would actually take a good amount of video and the "flip screen" would be cool - but I would have to weight the difference in cost.

With the lens thing...would it then be fair to say to just get the best deal I can on the "starter" zoom lens as far as cost?

Then as time goes by study up and save up for a nicer high end zoom?

Thanks for all the input! Much appreciated.

Hoffer

I would say you are on track with all your statements. I would look for the best deal you can find which may or may not be a T2i or T3i or include any additional lenses. I am guessing you will find your best deal on a T2i with kit lens and possibly the "starter zoom". I would definitely take my time and save money and look for better lens at a latter date.

At that time it would be good to start looking the used route. In fact you may find a number of used starter lenses that you can pick up for a very good price. Lots of folks doing just as you are and now are moving to the upgrade stage. National Camera near you would be a good starting place. In fact I checked their site and found the 70-300 starter zoom mentioned selling for $90 in E++ condition on the first page. That is a virtually new lens condition.

So find a good package locally or on the net for the camera and kit lens. Pick up a lens here in town and you will be very close to your budget. If you need more help let me know, I am just down the road from you.

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Awesome Dan!!

Thanks a ton - great advice.

Regarding the better lens.

What things should I be looking for?

For example, the numbers behind of after the lens must mean something...

like the E, ES, EF or I etc...

Can you maybe give me the order they come in from lower to higher grade?

Thanks again!

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Well there is a bit of history there. Let me try and be brief. The basics on the mount system first.

FD - The first mount introduced in the early 70's. Can't use on modern cameras

EF - "Electro Focus" started back in 1987. Will work with modern cameras

EF-S - Started in 2003 and is for EOS cameras with APS-C ONLY. EF lenses can be mounted on EF-S bodies but EF-S lenses cannot be mounted on EF bodies! What does that mean? Canon wanted to make sure it was physically impossible to mount EF-S lenses on EF-only cameras. If you upgrade to a full frame camera such as a 5D full frame you will not be able to use your EF-S lenses on that upgraded body. EF-S lenses are marked with a white dot on the mount instead of red one that EF-glass has.

EF-M - October 2012 new mirror-less lens that we won't get into.

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Ok so I found a T2i body only for 430.oo

I also found both a T2i and T3i with standard lens for 600.00

Wondering if its best to buy the body only for 430 and use the 170 difference to buy a better lens than the standard one?

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One last question...

I just looked at my old camera bag that had my old 35MM Nikon camera and 2 lens.

They are 'sigma" brand lens and have a "red dot" on the lens part that attaches to the camera. Would these lens work with the newer Canons?

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If you found a body for $430 you could pick up used versions of the kit lens and the starter zoom for $90 a piece. A total of $610 and you have a two lens starter kit that covers from 18mm to 300mm. Not a bad start.

EF-S is the lens mount type. The part that attaches to the camera. The IS is how the lens is constructed. IS is for Image Stabilization. USM is for Ultra Sonic Motor which refers to the type of Auto Focus system. Both of those features are found in higher end lenses. Re-read my above post which explains lens MOUNT type or what attaches the lens to the camera.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but until you have a basic understanding of all these different type of sensors, focus systems, lens mount and on and on you will be better served by sticking with the basic set up. As you learn more by shooting more and asking questions and doing research you will gain more knowledge of how these various things add up to something that will work well for you. Look at my initial response again...take your time with equipment as you start out. You will also not be able to purchase a higher quality lens in your budget.

As an example a good replacement for the kit lens might be a 17-40/4 L lens. Price around $700. A good replacement for the 70-300 starter zoom, might be the 70-300 IS L lens. Price around $1500. Maybe a used 100-400. Price around $1200. Even a 70-200/4 will run around $900 to a $1000. See what I mean??? You will be better served with two starter lens that give a wide focal range to experiment with instead of just one lens that will have a limited focal range and will cost you double your budget!

Nikon and Canon don't interchange!!! Your are buying into a "system". Take that old equipment into National Camera and get whatever you can get as a trade on a new camera!

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Hey Dan

Dont worry about me be offended! I appreciate all your advice and help!

Its been great - and you are spot on.

So, I guess one more question back. I have those 2 older Sigma lens from my old 35MM Nikon. Would they work on a Nikon - if i got a Nikon instead?

If I switched courses all together and went with a Nikon in the similar price range would it be worth it to do that...since I already have 2 lens? Or are those older Sigma lens just cheapos anyway and not really worth entering in to the equation to look at Nikon instead?

Thanks again!

Hoffer

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By all means take a look at Nikon. You may find it to be to your liking. Menu layout, camera button layout, price of lenses and bodies, all things you should consider. I am not that familiar with Nikon's mount system but your older lenses are not auto focus correct? I have been in photography since the 70's, I spent a lot of years with manual focus...I have no desire to go down that road again! Today's modern cameras are a wonder and a joy to use. Instant feedback, wonderful metering systems, good auto focus. I would not let my decision be based on older technology.

From the 70's until early 2000's I shot Pentax film. When I switched to digital I went with Pentax and used some of my older glass because Pentax is one of the rare companies that has used the same lens mount system forever. That lasted about a year and a half before I made the switch to Canon. I have never looked back! The older glass just doesn't compare with today's newer technologies, (with rare exceptions). Plus with my focus primarily on sports the Canon system was considerably better than Pentax offerings. At the time Canon was the top of the heap in the sports shooting world. That has since changed to Nikon but both companies seem to trade the lead every few years or so. Its hard to afford the latest and greatest and switching brands is not cheap!

I looked two years ago to switching to Nikon from Canon. I have around $20,000 invested and switching to Nikon would have cost me another $5000 on top of that to get comparable equipment! I only buy or upgrade equipment when my business can justify that equipment making me more money and putting it onto my bottom line.

The point of the long story is what I said earlier about investing in a system. If you add more equipment you get more invested in that particular "system". It pays to take your time in what system will serve you best. If you don't get any further than a starter package and are happy with your results great! When it comes time to upgrade to some newer technology you don't have a lot invested and you can switch to another system with little penalty. If you stay with your system and upgrade it becomes increasingly expensive to switch brands. Many ways to look at it but one of the reasons I advise begin with a starter setup and make your upgrade choice a year or two down the road with more experience and knowledge under your belt. If you switch brands then you can do it without a huge price hit!

Hope that helps a bit more.

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If you are looking for an inexpensive but very sharp lens and fast lens, you can pick up the 50/1.8 for around $100. It's also dubbed the thrifty fifty. For the money, it's just a nice one to have in the bag if you ever need one indoors where you can't use a flash. It's a lot of bang for the buck.

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When I was shopping for a DSLR I saw lots of kit offerings with 2 lenses.

Just pop T2i or T3i in an amazon search box and see what comes up.

As far as lenses, we really like our canon lenses but I know people that are very happy with the tamron offerings such as the 18-270, It's a pretty popular lens and I think they go for around $600.

I think Dan is spot on with some of his price references for canon L series lenses and certainly spot on with his advice.

As for the nifty fifty, yeah it's really cool that you can have a 50 prime in your bag for a hundred bucks, but we find that with the crop sensor (1.6X) the indoor use for the 50 is kind of clumsy. (it pretty much becomes an 80mm)

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