Guides and spacing for an ice rod?

[bobbymalone]

How do you guys go about choosing sizes and spacing?

Picking up some blanks and not sure where to start. I have been using the new concept system for long rods, but i'm pretty lost for the short rods. I built a quiverstick last year, with specs direct from Thorne.

Thinking around a 24 inch, solid glass, ultralight. 4-5 inch handle.

Thanks for any help!

[Brad B]

for a 24 inch rod with just a cork handle I would space it as follows.

tip top, 2", 2 1/2"(4 1/2" from tip), 3"(7 1/2"from tip), 4"(11 1/2" from tip).

here is a pic of a 24" ultra light I just did a week ago.

Guide sizes are as follows :

#8 regular frame guide, #8 high/tall frame guide, #10 high/tall frame guide, #12 high/tall frame guide

in the picture I accidental put 2 #8 high/tall frame guides on the rod. the first guide after the tip top should be the regular frame #8 not the high/tall frame one.

[Jmeyers]

Could also go with fly guides... I haven't done it yet but talking with a few other builders I've noticed a handful of them swear that fly guides are the way to go. They are lighter and you can bang them on the ice without breaking the ring insert that's in comon guides. Good Luck!

[upnorth]

Issue with fly guides is if you are on the ice with no shelter the tiny guides ice fast and if you are looking at snake guides the line could easily keep freezing to the blank.

Guide spacing on an ice rod would be to just keep the line running smoothly you aren't casting or anything like that. So if there are no spot where the line makes a real sharp bend you should be good to go.

[bobbymalone]

Guide spacing on an ice rod would be to just keep the line running smoothly you aren't casting or anything like that. So if there are no spot where the line makes a real sharp bend you should be good to go.

yeah, i was thinking waaaaaayyyyyy too hard.

I think I'll just glue the handle on, sorta rough out the reel situation, and then line guides up so they look good and funnel the line down to the tip top and tie 'em on.

One more question though: Is there any concern about finding the spline? On that quiverstick, I couldn't find jack squat using the rolling method so I set the guides up based on the straighest direction of the blank.. if that makes sense.

Thanks a lot guys!

[upnorth]

Bobby there are differing opinions on the spline. I can't say I don't pay attention to it, but many and myself included will most often build on the straightest axis(which in most case will align with the spline)which should make for the most aesthetically pleasing and best functioning rod. I can't imagine a rod that is built on a crooked axis casting or even fighting a fish with the tip off to the side being the best performing.

[bobbymalone]

That's what I meant, straightest axis. I knew there was a proper term for that.

[upnorth]

Yeah I mostly pay attention to that.

[A.W.Wolfram]

Here are a few for example. You could use single foot fly guides with inserts. I try to do a fast transition and then run out with them. It makes the tip section lighter and takes less action out of the blank verses using large frame spinning guides all the way out to the tip.

These rods are built as inside rods so they have 6mm and 5mm running rings.

I would use 8mm on outside rods.

The guides on the pictured rods are: 12mm, 8mm and 6mm fly runners and 12mm, 6mm and 5mm runners.

taping and testing is the best way to get your spacing on ice rods.