Novice decoy carver needs help

[bassNspear]

jason, shoot me a email please.

[jasonmichalski]

jason, shoot me a email please.

Ok, but just one question first, about what?

To your profile PM?

[bassNspear]

sure

[Laska]

Laska,

That is awesome, THANK YOU. The coupon is available for online use as well. If you could only have one brush to start off which Iwata would you recommend? Also which compressor? I will be ordering tomorrow and Tuesday, like you said you can use a 40% off coupon per day

Iwata HP-CH I believe, its the only one you'll ever need for decoys, it has a mac air control valve under the cup, small fine hairline to 3" wide spray. As far as the compressor, I have the blue one from hobby lobby, I do over 700 deaks a year, and the thing is still going, single piston and very quiet for paying attention to detail work, sorry this post is a little behind...

[Laska]

Hobby lobby just started carrying the CH in stores I dont see it online, the compressor i have will run 114,the brush is 220, so 132... Thats my ultimate setup, to start the Iwata CS would work great, with the airstream compressor. Also E to the bay may have better deals on the air compressors...

[chad austin]

I ended up ordering an Iwata HP-BCS from their eclipse line, I haven't used it yet as my compressor went down earlier this week. The new pressure switch will be here on Tuesday of next week. I decided not to get a dedicated air brush compressor until later.

Thanks again for the info on hobby lobby.

[chad austin]

I did get a separate pressure regulator as well as a water filter

[Laska]

You should be set, shoot away if you have anymore ?'s. Im all about savings, especially when if comes to equipment. That BCS should really do the trick for you. If you want to try templates, wally world has the best template material. 3 sheets for $4.

[jasonmichalski]

I learn new things here everyday. Thanks laska I never thought of Wally World for that and 40% off everyday great advise, I found leather ends and scrapes bulk bags at hobby lobby for just a few bucks and it has some bigger chunck that are great for putting a razor edge on my forged knifes almost scary sharp.

[Laska]

My hobby lobby secret is out now... lol Its all good, saves me tons of money, even if Im only buying bulk airbrush paint a couple bucks goes a long ways. Whats even better is I bring my wife and we both get the discount on whatever I need. All you have to do for in store is bring up the coupon on your phone and show them that and you get the discount! Ive tried the peel n stick template material and I cant stand it for decoys, cars and hobby stuff its great but its not reusable like the stuff from wally world. Use windex to clean whatever template you cut and the paint rubs right off of it. Good stuff and cheap!

[jasonmichalski]

Here's something that will beneifit everyone. What is everyone else using to test and tune there decoys? I have used sinks, tubs, bins, and at home I use a 50 gallon fish tank but there to small my decoys hit the side making it hard to judge the action. I would like to build or cheaply buy something about 4'x4'x4' or least 2' deep. What works for you guys?

[merkman]

I would like to build or cheaply buy something about 4'x4'x4' or least 2' deep.

Something like this?

[chad austin]

I agree Jason, if someone had the time to genericly lay out a build from start to finish that would be great too (this is something I will do in the future when i have more of an idea of what I am doing) . What do you guys do when you find that a decoy needs more lead after it's done (painted and tested) do you simply drill a hole and fill with more lead and then reseal the area where you added lead? I've got 2 decoys ready for paint but I haven't bought the paint yet and I need to get a booth built this weekend. I plan on documenting the build and putting pics up on here to help someone else in the future.

[jasonmichalski]

I have drilled filled sealed and reprinted but I have good luck bending the fins to change center of gravity and swim radius.

[MJ1657]

Something like this?

Next thing you know you would have cucumbers growing out of it.

[Laska]

I use a 150gallon 4ft round stock tank $140 down here in farm county. around 30" deep.... Behren Country tank....

[jasonmichalski]

I use a 150gallon 4ft round stock tank $140 down here in farm county. around 30" deep.... Behren Country tank....

perfect that is what I was looking for the only ones I have seen are oval but I will have to look for a round one, thanks

I was thinking of making a tank but dont know where to start, but a round tank looks like the way to go.

[Laska]

Its perfect! Little on the spendy side but it was worth every penny, afterall its the swimming that counts in my book! If you need any help let me know.

[pikestabber]

What do you guys do when you find that a decoy needs more lead after it's done (painted and tested) do you simply drill a hole and fill with more lead and then reseal the area where you added lead?

If they are already painted, that's about your only option. For future reference, always swim test before you paint and seal (saves lots of time and heartache). A few years back I proudly showed off my newest creation to my brother...15 hours of work into my nicest decoy yet. Brimming with confidence, I plopped it down the hole to show off my decoy prowess...and it floated. I was blazing mad but my brother almost fell off his chair he was laughing so hard. I didn't see the humor in it. So, long story short, decoys are a multiple step process, and painting should be the very last step.

[BOUNCED]

So, long story short, decoys are a multiple step process, and painting should be the very last step.

Agreed

Unless you clear coat

[pikestabber]

Yes! Don't forget the clear coat!

[chad austin]

So what I am getting from this is you test them while they are in raw wood form? No sealer at all before getting them wet?

[pikestabber]

Sorry, I should have clarified, Chad. Absolutely do seal them before testing. A coat or two of clear coat over the wood and into the cavity...the more sealed it is, the better. Then if you determine that you need to add lead, make sure the decoy is 100% dry first. Hot lead + any amount of water = disaster. In any case, dry the decoy thoroughly before taking the next step (filling the cavity, painting, etc.)

So, my process. Carve, sand, add fins and woodburn details, drill cavity and add lead, seal with two coats of acrylic clear coat. Swim test. If it...

Swims well...dry thoroughly, fill cavity with wood filler, re-sand, paint, seal.

Swims poorly...dry thoroughly, fill cavity with more lead, re-test, repeat steps until it's where I want it.

[jasonmichalski]

I can tell you your right do not pour hot lead if there is a question about the decoy being wet, I removed the lead from a decoy after swim testing and repoured it and as I looked away it exploded and rained hot lead everywhere. I got very luck no one was hurt. Wear safety glasses and long sleeves.

[chad austin]

I've been at a stalemate for the last couple of weeks. I was getting frustrated at the fact that I couldn't get everything to look the way that I wanted but I am back on track after spending some time in the garage tonight. I came to the conclusion that things will get better in time and the right tools will be acquired in time as well. I decided not to burn in the scales on my first decoy (going to buy the right tips for the burner) and to keep thing pretty basic for now and to add detail as I get a few more under my belt. I will post pics of my progress tomorrow and see what you guys think. The only thing left to do on my first one is to add lead, test and paint.

About a week ago we did a roof in which we used lead for some flashing and I got all the left over lead that couldn't be returned which ended up being about 25 pounds... That should last a while. The other thing I will be ordering at the end of the week is some paint for the airbrush. Have any of you been working on any projects lately?