Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Arrow flex ?


NELS-BELLS

Recommended Posts

I just recently traded in my 10 year old bow for a new one. The salseman also sold me some new arrows after informing me that my Gold Tip arrows (Expedition hunters 7595) where too stiff for my draw length (29") and my poundage (55 - 58 lbs). I shoot 100 grain tips.

When I got home I looked up the Gold Tip HSOforum and the HSOforum of the Victory arrows he sold me. He was correct about the Gold Tips, but according to the Victory chart, the arrows he sold me(V-force 350s)are for heavier poundage also.

My question is, will a stiffer arrow make that big of a difference? Should I bring my arrows back and replace them for the ones that the manufacture recomends?

I just spent a boat load of money on a new bow and arrows. I want to get the maximum performance out of it.

Nels

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little heavier arrow than necessary is usually a good idea, especially when shooting broadheads. Most charts would have you shoot the arrow that will be as fast as possible while still maintaining good flight. That's not always the best idea.

If they fly good and straight with your chosen broadheads, I'd stick with the new ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies. I'm not the best shot so when the salesman told me my arrows where too stiff for me. I started to wonder if that could be one of the reasons.

I am shooting some nice groups with the new bow and arrows so I think I will keep the arrows for now. This weekend I am going to broadhead tune the bow. Hopefully that goes pretty smooth.

Like I said earlier, when you spend that much on a new bow and arrows, you want everything to perform as advertised. Now I need to get myself up to peak performance. wink

Nels

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are already throwing good groups with the new arrows then try shooting with your broad heads on. If your groups turn bad it could be the flex in your arrow, but it could be other things.

Not sure if you are shooting expandable broad heads or not. I have only shot fixed blade heads myself.

Think of it this way. When shooting field points they are very "arrow" dynamic. Any problem in arrow flight will be magnified by a broad head, especially a fixed bladed one. I can't comment on expandables because like I said I've never shot them.

For me I typically do a good paper tuning session before I put my broad heads on. I also shoot a little larger fletch to help stablize out the broad head. I will admit I've shot this for about 20 years with good success but I may "switch" to a newer setup next time I upgrade my bow. If it a ain't broke then I don't fix it.

Bottom line is that if you put your broad heads on and you can throw good groups with them then you are ready for season.

Good Luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.