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using humminbird 1198 on Lake Superior


jwmiller33

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What are the best settings to use on the Humminbird 1198 with the side imaging when fishing deep water like 100-200ft depths? I've come to the conclusion that side imaging doesn't really do squat out there because of the depth. I've been out a couple times in my boat now and keep playing with the settings, trying to find the best setup to use out there. I've found using the split screen with the traditional sonar and the down imaging is the way to go.

Does anybody have any suggestions on the settings to use for Lake Superior? Switchfire max? clear? which frequency setting? which transducer beam setting? sensitivity etc etc etc

I have been marking really nice looking arcs on the down imaging and sonar, but I havent been able to see schools of bait fish or thermocline. any suggestions would be appreciated

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Fishing Lake Superior (or any similar body of water) is completely different from a standard lake. You are searching for water temperature changes, not structure. Currents and thermoclines.

I usually split my screen with a 50khz, and the other at 200khz, but I don't even bother with SI.

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I have been primarily fishing the depths of 120-140 over the past couple weeks, so it’s not surprising I am still able to use DI. Valv, so how do you set up the split screen sonars with the 50 and 200 khz? I know how to select either the 50, 200, or 50/200 for the sonar… Just not sure how to add the second split screen sonar. Also, do you use the switchfire in Max mode? Clear mode? Are you able to see thermocline out there? How high do you put the sensitivity?

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I apologize, I forgot mention I don't have a Humminbird. I'm on a Lowrance HDS8 and I was going to add StructureScan (Side Imaging) but I did not do it for the same reason, I'm on Superior.

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According to the Humminbird catalog the side and down imaging will only work down to 150 feet. you might have got lucky if the down imaging still works past 150 feet.

grin

Try 1,500.

Side imaging won't give you much besides bottom structure in those kinds of depths. You'll want to have your width 3x the depth. A scan that large, a LARGE fish will look like a dot on your screen...So use SI for structure only at those depths.

Sonar..Max mode. 83/200. Run higher sensitivity... probably in the 12-18 range. speed matched to boat speed.

Down, i'd run sensitivity way up, and keep the window to narrow.

Good luck .

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I have been primarily fishing the depths of 120-140 over the past couple weeks, so it’s not surprising I am still able to use DI. Valv, so how do you set up the split screen sonars with the 50 and 200 khz? I know how to select either the 50, 200, or 50/200 for the sonar… Just not sure how to add the second split screen sonar. Also, do you use the switchfire in Max mode? Clear mode? Are you able to see thermocline out there? How high do you put the sensitivity?

You can split your screen between 83 and 200. Just make sure that view is turned "ON".

Must be nice having that big 1198 onboard! Wife must have been happy with that purchase grin

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"TruthWalleyes

Try 1,500.

Side imaging won't give you much besides bottom structure in those kinds of depths. You'll want to have your width 3x the depth. A scan that large, a LARGE fish will look like a dot on your screen...So use SI for structure only at those depths.

Sonar..Max mode. 83/200. Run higher sensitivity... probably in the 12-18 range. speed matched to boat speed.

Down, i'd run sensitivity way up, and keep the window to narrow.

Good luck ."

the regular sonar is 1500 feet. the side and down imaging is rated to only 150 feet. I have the 2012 humminbird catalog in front of me as I type this.

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I run the split screen and use the quad beam. I can pick up my rigger balls much better with it set that way. I dont have SI on my 957c and knew I wouldnt use it based on what others who had it said. Especially on Lake Superior where theres really no structure to speak of and your just playing the wind and water temps.

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