Jump to content

  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

using humminbird 1198 on Lake Superior

jwmiller33

By jwmiller33
in Open Water

 Share

Recommended Posts

jwmiller33 Grand Master

jwmiller33

Posted
Posted

What are the best settings to use on the Humminbird 1198 with the side imaging when fishing deep water like 100-200ft depths? I've come to the conclusion that side imaging doesn't really do squat out there because of the depth. I've been out a couple times in my boat now and keep playing with the settings, trying to find the best setup to use out there. I've found using the split screen with the traditional sonar and the down imaging is the way to go.

Does anybody have any suggestions on the settings to use for Lake Superior? Switchfire max? clear? which frequency setting? which transducer beam setting? sensitivity etc etc etc

I have been marking really nice looking arcs on the down imaging and sonar, but I havent been able to see schools of bait fish or thermocline. any suggestions would be appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Valv Grand Master

Valv

Posted
Posted

Fishing Lake Superior (or any similar body of water) is completely different from a standard lake. You are searching for water temperature changes, not structure. Currents and thermoclines.

I usually split my screen with a 50khz, and the other at 200khz, but I don't even bother with SI.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jwmiller33 Grand Master

jwmiller33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have been primarily fishing the depths of 120-140 over the past couple weeks, so it’s not surprising I am still able to use DI. Valv, so how do you set up the split screen sonars with the 50 and 200 khz? I know how to select either the 50, 200, or 50/200 for the sonar… Just not sure how to add the second split screen sonar. Also, do you use the switchfire in Max mode? Clear mode? Are you able to see thermocline out there? How high do you put the sensitivity?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Valv Grand Master

Valv

Posted
Posted

I apologize, I forgot mention I don't have a Humminbird. I'm on a Lowrance HDS8 and I was going to add StructureScan (Side Imaging) but I did not do it for the same reason, I'm on Superior.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
TruthWalleyes Grand Master

TruthWalleyes

Posted
Posted

According to the Humminbird catalog the side and down imaging will only work down to 150 feet. you might have got lucky if the down imaging still works past 150 feet.

grin

Try 1,500.

Side imaging won't give you much besides bottom structure in those kinds of depths. You'll want to have your width 3x the depth. A scan that large, a LARGE fish will look like a dot on your screen...So use SI for structure only at those depths.

Sonar..Max mode. 83/200. Run higher sensitivity... probably in the 12-18 range. speed matched to boat speed.

Down, i'd run sensitivity way up, and keep the window to narrow.

Good luck .

Link to comment
Share on other sites
TruthWalleyes Grand Master

TruthWalleyes

Posted
Posted

I have been primarily fishing the depths of 120-140 over the past couple weeks, so it’s not surprising I am still able to use DI. Valv, so how do you set up the split screen sonars with the 50 and 200 khz? I know how to select either the 50, 200, or 50/200 for the sonar… Just not sure how to add the second split screen sonar. Also, do you use the switchfire in Max mode? Clear mode? Are you able to see thermocline out there? How high do you put the sensitivity?

You can split your screen between 83 and 200. Just make sure that view is turned "ON".

Must be nice having that big 1198 onboard! Wife must have been happy with that purchase grin

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Brad B Veteran

Brad B

Posted
Posted

"TruthWalleyes

Try 1,500.

Side imaging won't give you much besides bottom structure in those kinds of depths. You'll want to have your width 3x the depth. A scan that large, a LARGE fish will look like a dot on your screen...So use SI for structure only at those depths.

Sonar..Max mode. 83/200. Run higher sensitivity... probably in the 12-18 range. speed matched to boat speed.

Down, i'd run sensitivity way up, and keep the window to narrow.

Good luck ."

the regular sonar is 1500 feet. the side and down imaging is rated to only 150 feet. I have the 2012 humminbird catalog in front of me as I type this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Northlander Grand Master

Northlander

Posted
Posted

I run the split screen and use the quad beam. I can pick up my rigger balls much better with it set that way. I dont have SI on my 957c and knew I wouldnt use it based on what others who had it said. Especially on Lake Superior where theres really no structure to speak of and your just playing the wind and water temps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • Mike89
      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

      I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • Mike89
      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

      good luck!!!   
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

  I accept