another ? for the 06 F350

[K_Josh87]

So, after doing a complete job on the ball joints, tie rod ends and outer u joints, and seals, I still have a terrible loose front end... and a start to what I assume is a coming on of the "death wobble" i had pa work the steering wheel tonight, and everything is tighter than a ticks bung hole except the steering gear, and i am able to hear a defiant "knock" inside of it... took after it to adjust the "gear mesh" and was not able to turn the bolt at all, so this is seized in enough where it will have to be pulled out to POSSIBLY get it adjusted, and if I am pulling the gear box, it is getting replaced... Anyone have any experience with this??? Should I just get a reman from the parts store, or do I order a claimed high end reman such as a REDHEAD like I have read a lot about in other forums... Any input on the topic would be much appreciated.... Thank you!

KJ

[K_Josh87]

4wanderingeyes, I see you are near my area, do you work at a local shop, or have one you recommend? The one I have been dealing with has left me less than satisfied, and hence I am fixing my pickup myself, which has me to the point where I am ready to drive it off a cliff.

[Valv]

DO NOT buy one from an aftermarket, they are all junk, and will fail after few miles, guaranteed.

I did this several times in the past and regret it. I went the OEM route, expensive but worth it.

Recently I had same issue as yours on my old '99 Ram 2500 diesel and decided to try again reman boxes. Well guess what, bad idea, I have a week old reman box, and it has developed a huge slop again, I will try to adjust the nut again, but I know the end result.

[Scott K]

Josh, I sent you a PM

[K_Josh87]

Thank you for the replies, I will look into the OEM parts, and will probably be swapping it soon.

Do either of you have a suggestion on the proper snap ring tool to get the snap ring off the front hub on this truck? When we did the front end work , i think it took an hour of dinking around, both sides, both on and off... it stunk big time! I have a ring tool heavy enough to do it, but it does not fit inside the hub due to the minimal clearance...

[K_Josh87]

Alright, I was in doing glow plugs and was able to get at the steering gear box better, and did adjust it down, about 1 1/4 turns... it took care of the knock, and tightened it up quite a bit... not near what I would really like, but i guess its a big truck and won't ever handle like a half ton does... but... its much better for now, should pass the DOT inspection fine, and hopefully buy me a little time until I have to replace it. I have been getting some injector codes now too... so I hope to work those bug out before dropping money into the steering gear.... yowzeers I hope this thing gets off the cotton pony soon!

[JOHNBIGDOG]

Is this a 6.0L? if it is have you had the P.C.M. updated recently? Also its a good chance the injectors are going bad, but may be due to a faulty Fuel Injector Control Module. Ever replaced the EGR? how about white chalky stuffs, dried coolant, near the radiator cap?

[K_Josh87]

coolant has all been flushed when the EGR cooler blew last summer, we then installed a delete kit. Code it throws is for a faulty injector cylinder 3... and I believe they updated the PCM today... it has not thrown the code yet this afternoon... but it has had a couple minor rough spells... I am running cleaner through the fuel as well as the oil right now... so it may get to working itself out.... we shall see... new fuel filters where put in about 1000 miles ago... its approaching 130,000 and a few people told me a well taken care of machine should get 150,000 out of injectors... but i didn't own it for the first 65,000, and it is getting apparent it wasn't taken great care of... so we shall see what she decides to do here....

[JOHNBIGDOG]

we see allot of injectors that go bad, and those people always have fuel "additives" in the box. I would only recommend the stuffs that ford sells. But I only see em when they are broke.

[K_Josh87]

I don't believe in most additives. I run power source in the winter for anti gel, and haven't been running anything the rest of the time... The stuff I am running now is the LUCAS injector cleaner. Seams like good stuff. But I will probably be getting some of fords additive to run straight into the primary filter once in a while... had a ford tech suggest that me once... seams like an ok idea... my opinion is if they would lay off the emmisions talk these trucks could pull twice the milage, and have half as many problems, leaving people with more money to spend on other stuff to boost the economy, burning less fuel, which lowers emissions both from the primary vehicle, as well as along every path of making and transporting that fuel! it takes a rocket genius to figure that stuff out though!

rant off...

Whats your thoughts on how tough these buggers are to do? I have seen a couple very well put together videos on how to go about this, and doesn't seam to bad, but seams there are a few things to watch, and know the torque specs on. I know I can get my hand on a FORD service manual for this pig, They lent it to me for the ball joints... I also have a previous ford tech in my family I could possibly bribe with some beers or cash to help me out... (he now has moved up north, and took a job with a non-ford specific shop) Does a guy just replace the injector causing trouble, or replace all of them...

It makes logical sense to me to replace all 8 other than they are darn pricy.... but they all have seen the same amount of crappy dirty fuel.... its really only a matter of time before they all go (in my mind) and if I am paying someone to tear it apart, it should only really take a few more minutes to pull all four out and replace... which i believe the shop clocks in and clocks out per project, rather than charging a set price... so I SHOULD be saving on the labor aspect in the long run...

Does a guy buy FORD remans, or an aftermarket, which is a brand new injector... (most are remans, but there are a few performance companies that that sell brand new ones for use with zero mod trucks...

Yiyiyi... Dang nab things not nickle diming any more, shes burning up the benjis!

Thanks!

[GSP4ME]

I feel you on the FOrd 6.0 and the 06 superdud. I had been a ford guy all my life and three relatives retire from the ford plant and I had so many issues with that model that I went to Dodge and have not looked back. Very irritating

[K_Josh87]

its a good pickup, the 6.7s i think are going to be a good motor, i just need this one to hang in long enough for me to get into one of them, which will probably be a few years at his rate! ;-)

[JOHNBIGDOG]

Well I can not say about the aftermarket injectors, But ford remans. will have a part warranty, and there wont be shipping back and forth, cause there ALWAYS in stock

Always remove the battery cables for safety.

Depending on which bank you do it can be a bear. RH side is very difficult to get the valve cover bolts out, then the high pressure oil rail bolts. the HVAC box is in the way.

Left hand you will need a new "green o-ring" when you remove the pcv vent tube from the valve cover. Also the FICM will have to be removed carefully.

There is a special tool that I use to remove the injector electrical plug from the head, I have not done it with out the tool.

(Just replace the stand pipes and dummy plugs if they haven't been replaces, old style will be a 1/2 drive, new style is a allen size, loo) TORQUE THESE DOWN WHEN REPLACING!!!!

Remove the high pressure oil rail and set a side. The more oil left in it the easier the truck will be to start later, but keep it CLEAN. TORQUE THESE BOLTS DOWN!!!!

Look at the o-rings if there are any degradation throw them out. Rh side stand pipe will have to be removed in two pieces, the long piece will have to be replaced before you put on the H.P. oil rail. Lube all o-rings with fresh oil.

I Would suggest to do all 4 injectors but it is up to you at 400(aprox) bucks a pop, that is allot of money.

Make sure that you use a wire brush and be generous with the brake clean to clean out the injector sleeves. You ARE changing the oil after you are done so don't worry about it. Use a piece if hard brake line attached to a blow gun to get all the brake clean that you just shot down into the cylinder out. Lube the injector o rings with fresh oil.

It is also VERY critical to clean and dry the injector hold down clamp (the injector will remove and install itself with install and removal of the clamp) TORQUE this bolt down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

*change the oil and filter

When its all back together it is going to take a while for the system to build enough oil pressure to fire the injectors, so get out the good old battery charger, or two. when the truck fires off let it idle for a while to get some of the air out of the system. then drive the truck at a steady state of 55 and be nice on the accelerations. then after 5 miles rive it hard, like normal.

Lastly, Anyone hates when a customer tows in the vehicle because the owner of said vehicle couldn't complete a job and is half started.

I think I hit all the high points.... Hmmmm....

[Powerstroke]

Remans are still ~$250 a piece which means a $2000 job to replace them all. One place to look is Warren Diesel. They offer a rebuild service where they will take all 8 of YOUR injectors and refurb yours and send them back to you for $500. If they cannot refurb it due to some damage then you pay the price for a reman from them which is $250.

Warren has a very good reputation among 6.0L owners. This is the route I plan on taking for my injectors this summer/fall.

If you've never had it checked I would look into testing the FICM. You can find that procedure in numerous places online.