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Spark plug wires are very high resistance to help suppress Radio Frequency Interference. (R.F.I)

I should know how many 1000's of ohms of resistance per foot of wire, but Since I don't see cars with spark plug wires too often, I forgot. Shame on me

blush

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Ok, I'm learning stuff now.

So, if I have a 1 1/2 foot long plug wire that's giving me 8000 ohms, and it should be 15000 ohms........is this a bad wire or is it just real low resistance?

My simple beer drinking mind tells me the lower the resistance the better the wire, but I've been wrong before.

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You can set the timing statically if need be. Put voltmeter or lightbulb across points. Rotate motor until at specified timing, like 5 degrees before top dead center (use the mark you would see with the timing light). Rotate distributor until points start to open as indicated by light coming on or voltmeter showing voltage.

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That's not working.

I have deeper issues. I'll fill yous guys in on what I/we/all of us figure out.

You mean it didn't help? or there wasn't any voltage? I can tell you how to set the timing like that but I can't tell you how to make the motor run.

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Ok Eric, you have a (good?) ballast resistor, 9 volts at the coil, a new set of points and condenser so the only thing left is cap, rotor, wires and coil, so its pretty much has to be one of those things. If it were bad cap rotors or wires it should have started missing at some point and the points shouldn't fry from those being bad. I'd say throw a coil on first and see what happens.

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that's where I was thinking of going next.

So far the list of new stuff is.....Cap, rotor, points, plugs.

Last fall....Voltage regulator.

Last summer....Cam gear, crank gear, timing chain.

I started from scratch. Got #1 piston TDC, aligned everything on the dist.

This thing barely idles and I have to give it a lot of foot feed to get it to barely idle.

The plugs I took out yesterday were horrible sooted up. I know I have spark on all 8 cylinders but would a weak coil cause a weak spark that would cause an incomplete fire that would cause this thing to barely idle? I'm reaching now. Or, is it possible the carb is just flat out dumping gas into the motor and sooting things up?

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It sure does sound like too much gas from carb. Did you go through the carb? Choke sticking? Float too low or leaking? Needle valve gummed up?

Or it could be a miss from the bad coil, I guess.

Popping the top off the carb to check float and needle valve is probably cheaper than buying a new coil. If the car hasn't been run much lately, they will do that.

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I have not done anything with the carb, yet. That's next on my list.

It's a little frustrating cuz this old gal used to just run, problem free, all the sudden WHAMO here come the problems.

I know I finally have spark and pretty close to on-time. Now I have to attack a carb.

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Fellas, this gals got some issues. Nothing that can't be fixed, but issues none the less.

Spark is there and timing is close, not real worried about that anymore.

Pulled the top offa the carb. Imagine a float sitting on the bottom of a swimming pool, and what is supposed to be a needle valve, but doesn't really look like one. That's what i have.

So, I called the parts store. They'll get me a carb kit but it will be a few days. Thank God cuz it's fishing opener. Once I get the kit I'll fix the carb.

I still have this lingering problem of why points keep frying out. That 50 dollar HEI conversion kit is looking better every day.

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I had a cd ignition kit on my 68 barracuda, worked great. But the regular points ought to last like 10k miles or more. Set the gap/dwell right and see how it works out with the lube and everything.

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Update- I ordered the ignition conversion kit from the local parts store. Should be here next week.

Yesterday I went through the carb. She was a plugged up mess and the float was not so much floating. I'll get it bolted on later today after chores and post up the results.

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Update- I ordered the ignition conversion kit from the local parts store. Should be here next week.

Yesterday I went through the carb. She was a plugged up mess and the float was not so much floating. I'll get it bolted on later today after chores and post up the results.

Having a float that floats will cut down on the flooding at idle problem for sure.

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VICTORY!!!!!!!

She's purrin like a kitten fellas. Well, actually she's roaring like a lion after a backfire that split the muffler.

Carb was a big problem, that's taken care of....for now....hopefully. The ignition conversion kit is a wonderful thing. Simple to install and what a difference it makes while starting. Added bonus, no more points to mess with.

Thanks all yous guys for all your help. Some of this stuff I actually knew back in the 70's but managed to forget cuz I didn't need to remember it.

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Scott, I should add, thanks for the diagrams, they helped a lot.

This is an old car and over the course of it's life has been.........modified. Using the diagrams you sent me I started at square one and got things wired the way they're supposed to be. Took a while but it needed to be done.

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