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New Struts


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I recently just put new stuts on my car. Everything went rather well and quick. Although now the toe and camber seem screwd up. I dont understand, I changed nothing but not it's not drivable. I thought it was pretty silly-me proof

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would this be true on an 88 bronco 2? I have one we off road race and my wheels tip in a lot, but everything seams tight... I have changes the front shocks on it though... or would weak springs due this as well? Not intended to hijack the thread to re post elsewhere if needed.

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Anytime camber changes toe will also change. I would assume that the new struts where slotted to allow for some adjustment? The natural tendency is for the strut/knuckle to push away from the car. This will leave you with positive camber and toe out. Driving to the local alignment shop will be fine. Driving it long term will scrub the tires. I have seen extreme out of toe alignments scrub a new tire in less than 2 weeks so you will deffinetly want to get it aligned ASAP.

I like to leave the strut/knuckles cambered positive when I change them out. Once on the alignment rack, and with a little luck, the weight of he vehicle will push the camber negative when the strut bolts are loosened. This is easier than trying to force the camber positive which involves a helper pulling on the top of the tire or the use of a tool called a camber bladder which is an airbag that is fitted in between the strut and tire and then inflated to push the tire out.

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I learned something new today. Yes as you say they were slotted for adjustment. Loosend the bolts and adjusted acordingly. After some tweeking it made everything gome together. Got the camber close and wah-laa the toe was not pointing into the neibors yard anymore.

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    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
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    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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