Installing Transom/transducer board

[ClownColor]

I currently own an aluminum Lowe Fish'n ski boat. I have one transducer professionally installed straight onto the back of the boat (through the aluminum). I am currently now a proud owner of a Strucure scan unit (yeah me) and need to mount this some time before opener so need some ideas/pics. I want to add a tranducer board (transom starboard) so I can place THREE tranducers, one of which will be SS/DS. I know that needs to be the lowest one but how do i mount the other two so they don't intfer with each other...and stay on the same side (transducer board is 4 x 18 inches and diagnal towards bottom, not flat)? Also, in order to keep the tranducer board flat, I'll have to remove the current transduce and screws. Can I just fill those holes with 3m 5200 and leave the screws out? I will secure the tranducer board over those holes with 3m 5200 and two screws as well. Do you screw or bolt the transom board onto your aluminum boat? Do I need to stay away from rivets on the bottom and if so, why?Any pics would be great!

[marine_man]

You'll need to space the transducers as much as you can to avoid interference, but if they're running at the same time on the same frequency you'll need to get a unit that can run a different frequency or move one transducer to the other side.

To plug your old holes you can just silicone the holes. If it were me I'd silicone the holes and put a screw in the hole to be sure, and drill a relief in the back side of the transducer board.

You should be just fine screwing the transducer board to the transom, no need to bolt. You'll want to make sure the board & transducer mounting brackets are not hanging below the hull otherwise you'll have a spray problem when you're on plane.

marine_man

[BoxMN]

I'd just add to MM's that I did exactly what he described, but I also added some silcone to the back of the board, so it worked like "suction" and keeps stuff from getting behind the board. Works great on two boats and one pontoon so far, and the pontoon I even had to "notch" linearly so it would "form" around the roundness of the toon end. Been tight as a drum for 6 years on, sitting in the water every day

Good luck!

ps, you can get waterproof pop rivets to file the old holes instead of screws, work great. I still silicone them too before putting them in, just for added protection

[Kyhl]

I'm not sure about the board. The SS transducer should give mounting info for distances and level.

I placed my SS transducer lowest on the hull (starbord side). Mounted it flush when on plane while still barely in the water. It reads at full speed this just fine.

The regular 83/200khz transducer is mounted above that and on plane, about six inches farther to the starbord side from the SS transducer. I think the instructions gave minimum distances to keep them deparate.

I'm guessing your third one is for a bow mount depth finder which you would probably have to mount out a few more inches. This one will have interferrence issues if it uses the same frequency as the regular transducer for the SS unit. You may have to play with adjusting frequencies between the two units to get them to play nice.

Keep the lower unit in mind when placing the SS transducer. You will want the SS transducer to be clear of the lower unit. I can see interference on the left caused by my lower unit when the motor is trimmed all the way down.

[Chode2235]

Use 3m 4200 or 5200, as theyre designed to be used under the waterline (vs marine silicone which is not).

[ClownColor]

bump for bartman...

[BartmanMN]

Thanks, I missed this.