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Carsella Fish Houses


BuschPilot

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Very interested in buying one. Hoping to hear from someone that owns one. Any issues with the house itself. i am looking at a 7x16 to be built. I can't find a lot of info on the net about them. Whats everyone think of construction of them. thanks!!

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Thanks Harvey, I have seen a few of them for sale this year but just thought about making the jump, We won't tow it much, going to be a LOW fixture for the most part. Hoping to hear some more, sounds like he builds quite a few a year. Great pricing too.

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We did order one. its suppose to be 3-4 weeks. sent 1/2 a week ago tomorrow. we went with a 7x16 flat front. just becasue we plan on using it for a bunk house at deer camp too. so we got a futon on each end with a bunk above and a cooktop in the middle. prices are very good and sounds like a strong built house. hopefully we can have some input while its being built.

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Don is tough to get ahold of, but keep at him. He is a man with a couple others building houses. He is not a production line. He builds good houses, he has low overhead, he can give you a quality house, without the sticker shock. I have had several houses built by Don and trust him with any design he says he can build.

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Wish I would have see this post sooner but just noticed it today. I just finished my second year out of a Carsella shack. The siding is steel but not the flat smooth stuff. I guess you would call it imbossed? I like it better as it is more durable. The siding I have is Black and you can see were touch up paint was used in a number of spots. I didn't care about that but some might. For the most part I am very happy with it. My only one complaint was the trailer. It started to rust after the first ice season so I had to drop another 500.00 to have it blasted,sealed and then bed liner spray. Well worth the 500.00 to keep that treailer in top shape.

As I said, I am happy with the house as it is very sturdy and with all the upgrading I had them do, I love it. It is a 6.5 x 12 plus V.

I also use mine during the Bow season for the hunting shack and it sure is nice. Good luck and feel free to ask any other questions you may have.

Don is a tuff guy to reach but they do get back to you in do time. E-mail is what I found to work best. Pam is very nice as well and for 100.00 they delivered the house once it was done. That is about a 4 hour road trip so I was happy to have them bring it to me.

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Keep in mind the rust I am talking about was very minimal at best. Kind of the powder on the surface type. I just did not want to see it start to get bad and give out in 5 years or so. I got a good deal on the bed liner job and took it. He did all the cross beams underneath as well.

When I had Don build mine I went with, 6 holes with lights,oven stove,diamond plate all around,out-door light over the door,window in the back as it only came standard with side windows,table that drops to a bed for playing cards,extra bunk,shelf over the stove for TV, 12v light under that shelf to shine over oven,3 110 outlets,two more 12v lights in ceiling,2 12v jacks in ceiling for a fan or two to keep the heat down,Pioneer stereo with four speakers in the ceiling and lots of good memories so far.

If I were to add more it would be an out-door light over my propane tanks as they are on the opposite side of the door light. Then a TV antenna jack. So far I have no TV hooked up as I am at a loss as to what is the best way to do just that.

Hope this helps. The house is tight and seems to be holding up just fine. They screw things together and not staple plus they use board foam insulation in the walls instead of spray insulation. Spray insulation settles after a few years and then you only have the bottom 2/3 insulated. We no what that does to the heat bill. Good luck with your new house.

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He does not have a Web site but Pam will send you pictures if you want them. All said and done with the bed liner it was 7800.00. Money well spent IMO. Send her an E-mail. [email protected]

I spent about an hour on the phone with Don going over the details as to what I wanted and they got it all done just the way I wanted it.

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Sticks for awhile. Lots of bouncing down the road and on the lakes will break it loose and eventually it will settle.

If it is anything like the product used in insulating attics, I would say there is absolutely no way that it would settle. The product I am talking about is that green icing spray foam. That stuff sticks incredibly well, it is basically impossible to remove. I would never worry about it settling!

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For the record I am not bashing spray foam if that is what a guy wants to use. I have no personel experience with it but have talked to other who have and the settling issue is what scared me away from it. There is one maker of very popular ice shacks that uses stuff that settles. I will not mention the name here but for the money and quality Carsella shacks are second to none IMO. I have also heard that when using spray foam (insulation) you will leave voids in the walls that will hold moisture thus creating mold and such.

Another tip a guy gave me that never registered is, once the house is cranked up you will want to leave slack in the cables so they don't become your only source of suspention. When you leave them tight the leaf springs are not doing what they are supposed to. Also you will wreck your cables in a short time. Just thought I would throw that out there as well for those folks like me that did not think of that.

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That blow in stuff in the attic sttles believe me, I have condensation spots the ceiling where the ceiling joist meet the wall frame fron blow in settling an wind coming thru the sauffet. just have to stuf some insulation in those ceiling joist to fix it. Any who it not tool time, but 7800 to be happy on the ice is a good price. thanks for the info.

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I got to spend some time at Carsella Shacks today going over our layout and choices. Keith was very helpful. I got to see about the exact layout we wanted and was able to make the choices from that. They had 3 in the works right now and hopefully getting my frame next week to get started, i can't wait. Very good prices too.

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Obviously somebody needs to do a little research before going off half cocked about spray foam insulation versus fiberglass batting. I spray foamed my shack and dont think in a thousand years that the insulation can settle. Maybe some degradation from the uv rays is possible.IMO the best way to insulate a shack. period. BTW I went through 2 20# propane tanks this year.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
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