Skid house help needed

[ClownColor]

I'm going to be building a 6 x 10 skid house this summer. I have a great concept of what I want but I'm trying to make this as light as possible while still being function for my needs. Some questions (more will sure come):

1) going with a non-insulated floor. Spacers and support beams are (planned anyways) going to be every two feet. How thick of wood would you suggest? Choosing painted/sealed green treated plywood.

2) Was also thinking of nailing vinyl siding straight to the studs with no wood inbetween...stud wall 2 x 2's with 4x4's in the conners...tough enough?

3) Floor main beams (dragging on ice) will be 2 x 6's (4 of them spaced at 2').

4) tin roof slanted 6 inches for run off (with glues foam insultaion), with some reflective ceiling cover.

5) walls will also be foam insulated but sealed in plastic wrap to prevent drafting.

Will this work? see any basic problems? Could I lighten the load?

[LightningBG]

3) Floor main beams (dragging on ice) will be 2 x 6's (4 of them spaced at 2').

IMO, you're only going to want 2 skids.

Either doubled up 2x6s or single 4x6. They aren't too expensive.

From menards

4" x 6" x 12' #2 or Better SYP or Red Pine Lumber

3 1/2" x 5 1/2" x 12' Actual

Sku: 1022510

$11.59

[LightningBG]

this one is a bit higher (taller beams), but might get you going in the right direction.

[ClownColor]

Thanks Lightning...how wide is that, 4'? how far did you space out support beams on the floor?

[Spicoli]

When I built my 8x12 skid house, I went with the same concept as you of making it light as possible.

What I did for the floor was used (4) 2x4's for skids/floor joists. I layed them flat, spaced 2.6' apart and screwed 3/4" plywood directly on top of them. So basically the top of my floor is 2 1/4" off the ice. I didn't insulate the floor, but did install blue indoor/outdoor carpeting. In a way I wish I would have went ahead and insulated the floor so that the snow and water that gets drug in would melt and dry up easier.

I also used 2x2's for the walls, and ripped 2x6's into 2x3's for the corners, and sloped the roof from one side to the other. I screwed steel siding directly to the studs, running the ribs horizontaly to eliminate the need for perlings.

I didn't use a stitch of green treated wood, but coated everything floor related with Thompsons water seal.

This house has been hauled to LOW every year for the past 10 years or so, and left for the winters on the ice, and drug around all over out there, and it really does still look like new, it's been more than strong enough to survive 10 yrs of abuse. And the best part is it is light.

[motley man]

Use steel siding as vinyl will not stand up to the handling in cold weather and crack. Insulated the floor, as said before it helps with snow, ice dry out better. Use 3/4" plywood on floor and you don't need treated.

[Rube]

Having more than two skids can be a real pain if you ever have the misfortune of the house getting froze in. Chipping the outside ones are bad enough, but the center ones are impossible. Remember your hole placement when determining where you put the skids. If you stay to the outside of the holes, it helps in banking the sides, but you will be loosing support in the middle.

Keeping it light will be a challenge. Good Luck and have fun

[hawgchaser]

Clown...

I've built 3 6X8's in the last 15 years and my favorite weighed under 300 lb. and is as good today as it was 10 years ago. Some considerations that worked for me... 1. 1/4 plywood sheeting on the outside gives rigidity. I coated both sides with sealer. 2. 2X4-2X2 corners with a 2X8 at the bottom front for tow bar strength. 3. Tyvek (moisture barrier outside under siding. It is also used on the inside as my only wall/ceiling covering & it's white so it reflects light. 4. I use 2-2X4s on edge for runners with 1/2 in. spacers to make them the width of a vinyl 1X4 (FF has them) on the bottom of the runners. I like 3 runners for support in the middle of my 1/2 in. floor. 5. I put 1" foam board on top of the floor with indoor carpet laid directly on top and it's held up well for 15 years.

Just my experience on how to balance the strength/weight issue. Good luck & enjoy! BTW, I pull my house all over with a regular old snowmobile with studded track.

[LightningBG]

Thanks Lightning...how wide is that, 4'? how far did you space out support beams on the floor?

I would guess that one I posted is about 5 ft wide. (It's not mine). The floor joists can also be cantilevered over the beams, but it makes for a tougher time banking the house. The floor joists I would probably do at about 16" OC. And 3/4" plywood floors will prevent a spongy feeling, but it isn't all that light.

I guess a lot of it depends on how light the house really needs to be. I think 1/4" plywood on the outside would be very beneficial to give it some rigidity.

[LightningBG]

Also, I'm always worried about the sideways torque on the skids, but can be solved but building a simple web with some lumber and rope to spread the pull, therefore the skids are always getting pulled straight forward, not towards the center.

[ClownColor]

alot of great stuff here and things I would never have thought about...i get the inside runners would be hard to break free from the ice if frozen in, but can I get away with only two outside runners and roughly 6' inbetween? who far would you need support beams/joist placed? how about a center runner making 3, would that be any better?

I like the floor joists every 16", but can't get it through my mind that will hold for 6' in width? but I have no idea how strong 3/4 (or any wood) is so thatnks for the help.

Also, that no vinyl and go with steel has me bummed. but, how can that be that it breaks when most houses in MN have it? is it becasue we don't drag our house over the ice...or that we keep our house above freezing? Please explain this or if others have had problems too (i can get tons of free vinyl so i'm hoping).

please don't get offended by hard hitting questios or second guesses...just like to make sure I'm getting it all right!

[Rube]

As for the vinyl siding. You will need some kind of backing to attach it too @ 1/4" or 3/8" plywood. Just putting the vinyl siding to the studs will not give you any rigidity and wall strength. The vinyl will be very brittle when the temps get sub-zero. Granted there are some out there with the vinyl on and I personally can't tell you the pros and cons, maybe one of them will respond to your questions.

With 2x4 spaced every 16" for the floor you might want to consider 5/8" treated fot the flooring. It will be lighter than the 3/4" and not spongy like the 1/2".

For 5/8" you have to check around, but it was available a couple of years ago.

[Gordie]

Vinyl siding is only brittle to work with in the winter time when it gets cold it is harder to work with.Its tougher to cut when cold and tougher to nail up when it cold.

As for a fish house I personally would never use it unless I had a bunch of it to use and then would really have to think about it. I would instal it with staples also but this can be tricky also the stapler will/may break the siding. you can nial the siding every two foot on your stud center then use some really good caulk to adhere in between the studs

and this should help with the trouble of losing as piece of siding while in route to the lake.

[LightningBG]

Ideally, to keep it low to the ice, you'll use 2x4's (vs 2x6 for the 6ft span). They will certainly hold, but may have a little bounce. One option would be to put the 2x4 at 12" oc. That should take care of any issues.

One option to see how it will work....

go buy a few 2x4s - 8ft long, and a sheet of 5/8 or 3/4 plywood for the floor.

lay a couple 2x4s on the ground, 6ft apart to mimic your skids, then lay 2x4s perpendicular to the faux skids on top of them to mimic your floor trusses, plop the plywood on top in the center of the span and walk around on it to see how it feels, also have someone else walk on it while you look underneath to see how much it flexes. If it flexes too much for your comfort, put the floor trusses at 12" oc and see if that helps at all.

(but be careful while on it, those faux skids could flop over and down you will go)

[LightningBG]

Are you going to be pulling this shack by hand? ATV / Sled? Truck?

How much clearance do you think you need to make it through the snow where you plan to fish?

[chad austin]

i get the inside runners would be hard to break free from the ice if frozen in, but can I get away with only two outside runners and roughly 6' inbetween?

[ClownColor]

Are you going to be pulling this shack by hand? ATV / Sled? Truck?

How much clearance do you think you need to make it through the snow where you plan to fish?

I will be pulling this with and ATV 99% of the time, but would like it light enough to pull by hand to move short distances around the lake.

Clearance is more of an issue. This will be pulled straight down a hill onto the lake. The shore also can have a 3-4' steep bank. I guess I've never pulled a skid on the snow so I'm not sure but I'm okay with 6".

So in recap, I'm thinking of going with the majority here and two skids only on the edges, 6' apart 10' long. Just for my understanding, either 16" to 12" spaced floor joist. Now, I was planning on going inbetween the skids (hence the 6" skids), are most of you saying to go on top? If so, I'd then go with 2 x 4's.

Now, back to the siding. What if I floated the vinyl (more then most). Drilled out double the hole for the nail to allow for flex? Like I said, I can get this stuff very easy and for free, but if it's not going to work, then I'm not going to use it... but I'd like to see anyone has made this work or has an idea to make this work...

awesome work here guys...

[Spike76]

I've got vinyl siding on two of my houses, but I also have 1x8 cedar boards all around base so siding won't get broke when banking it. The only broken siding was done by my son who isn't as careful. In the summer you can replace siding easily if it gets broken. I chose vinyl because it was free, and I've worked with it often. I also used lauan plywood before the siding. Make aluminum corner posts and aluminum up 2 inches on the walls, out 3 inches, up desired size for fascia, and back about 4 inches under the ice and water. Each time you build one you learn so much you will want to build another. My wife thinks I like building fish houses more then fishing. I always put blocks under house so it won't freeze in.

[Gordie]

If you are putting skids on you should go at least A foot to two foot longer on each end and cross support the skids what I mean is tie the two together kinda like lighting described and I would set it up to pull both ways you just never know what you will run into. Always have be prepared when comes to skid house. Plus it makes a nice platform tonset a propane tank on

[chad austin]

I would set it up to pull both ways you just never know what you will run into. Always have be prepared when comes to skid house.

Good idea Gordie, it only takes one time of getting stuck with the ATV and wanting to pull the house out from the other side and you sit there wondering "why didn't I think of that.

[crappiewalleyebi]

now granted mine is a small 4x8 (quick and easy)...but here are my suggestions and what i used.

4x4 timbers for the floor...i then ran a couple 2x2 in between for extra floor support.

definately insulate the floor...i just used 1 1/2 inch pink styro/with 3/4 inch plywood...is plenty strong. the insulation sheet will also add some rigidness to the floor.

i just 'framed' my plywood w/2x2's and used 1/4 inch waferboard for the walls.

used 1 1/2 inch white insulation thruout the inside.

i just used good old paint to seal teh wood.

i'm sure you may go more elaborate than this...but you don't have to go overboard, and you can keep it light.

[ClownColor]

+2 on the great advice gordie about towing both directions. It will also come in handy going down the hill to the lake, I can let the house lead and I can follow with control. Another thing I'm adding is a door on both ends. This is just a personal thing as I hate moving everything to let someone pass as this is going to hold 4 people.

Crappiewalleyebi-I wanted to make this a nice looking house as well but you're right, I may just put up wood and paint it...sounds like the vinyl I can get isn't worth it any ways, I just thought it would be lighter then wood walls.

[crappiewalleyebi]

i've also wondered if sheets of shower surround material would work? may get brittle in some colder situations? otherwise maybe tin or light steel sheets would keep it lighter as well?

one thing i've found as far as sturdyness goes is...if you don't drive like a maniac on the ice...a little goes a long way. some people build their houses prepared for a demo derby, and much of it isn't necessary.

good luck on the build. post some pics when its all done.

[silverbulletguy]

Just put one door in the middle on the side. Should solve your problem or having to let people by.

[low277]

I have seen a small skid house about 6 x 8 that used 2x2 for the wall studs on 2ft centers with tyvek stapled as tight as possible on the outside. He then spray foamed the inside and painted the tyvek on the outside. Very light, outside of walls are very smooth and it seems very strong/sturdy.