Rigging decoys...

[dan z]

This is a post just to help the new guys reading the forums. veterans can also chime in and pt there thoughts on how they do it...

I just like using lots of cord and bigger than normal weights if I have them. I know some of us are using leftovers and whats around the house for weights but who is using only one type of weight, cord, line ....

I like the tanglefree green cord and when avail I use tangle free weights also.

I also like to use 6-8 oz of weight on ducks and a bit more on geese.

I put 12' on the last decoys I rigged, I dont like going out on some of the bigger lakes and not having enough cord on them and find out there not holding on the bottom and floating away. I also like when its not to breezy the long line lets them move a little bit.

whats everyone else out there useing?

[Farley]

On my foam dekes I picked up a "rig em right" set which is also known as a texas rig I think? Snap swivel to the decoy, tie line to swivel, then an egg sinker that moves up and down the line, then a crimp. i like the idea but the set was not tough enough for one season, the crimps were the main problem. So now I use the same kind of setup and just tie loop and a knot at the end of the line. All the loops go into a caribeener and over my shoulder for easy transport without a bag. Pretty good for not tangling up (Herters foam dekes do not have keels to wrap line around) and are easy to chuck out into the swamp since the weight is up by the decoy when you throw, then slides down the line to anchor.

Like this:

[HugoBox]

I like the tangle free line and trap weights. I wrap the line around the a$$ and then the neck criss-crossing the back clothesline style rather tahn just around the keel. I know everyone has their own way but that's how I learned so that's how I do it. I don't think one way or another is better in general but if someone helps me pick up my dekes and wraps the line around the keel they can count on a few wraps from me next time I see them! Nothing worse than trying to set decoys in the dark and they're wrapped backwards - kinda like my left handed brother - we've had a fight or two over which way is the right direction to wrap them.

I'm also a fan of the Texas style for smaller shallower spreads. I think the longling setup with the clips for divers is tough to beat with the standup Drake decoy bags as well. Last year we timed it and a buddy and I picked up all 9 dozen decoys in 25 minutes - which is why more and more of our blokes are changng to longline setups.

[carpshooterdeluxe]

7 foot of tanglefree line, HS crimps, and HS depth adjusters on all 56 of my duck floaters. 4 or 6 oz weights depending on size of decoy. I don't hunt from boats and I don't hunt deep water, so rarely if ever is 7 foot of line not enough. I have all of my weights wrapped in waterproof tape so if the weight comes off the keel during transport, the paint doesn't get chipped up on the dekes as easy.

[Gordie]

I like the tangle free line and trap weights. I wrap the line around the a$$ and then the neck criss-crossing the back clothesline style rather tahn just around the keel. I know everyone has their own way but that's how I learned so that's how I do it. I don't think one way or another is better in general but if someone helps me pick up my dekes and wraps the line around the keel they can count on a few wraps from me next time I see them! Nothing worse than trying to set decoys in the dark and they're wrapped backwards - kinda like my left handed brother - we've had a fight or two over which way is the right direction to wrap them.

This how I do it and have converted a few of my buddys as I think its way faster this way when it really cold out and wrapping decks this way is easier with gloves on also.

I also do long lines that I wrap up on a wire welding spool and the decoys have 4-6 foot droppers on them.

I'm still working on a new wat to store and transport my lone decoys but still have a few bugs to work out. and now that it season I just dont have time to mess with it. so hopefully I will finish it by next season

[Walleye Guy]

The Riggem Right set up shown above is the only way to go in my opinion. We have switched over about half ove our 10 dozen floaters so far. They are expensive but worth every penny.

[Gissert]

Rigg em right...X2

[uwleagle]

I put keel grabber weights and about 4 feet of tangle free line on all my floaters. I think the weights for my ducks are 3.5 ounces and I think 7 oz on my geese. I never hunt out of a boat and dont hunt any big water though. If I hunted bigger lakes or rivers and was hunting from a boat I'd probably put 10 or 12 feet of line on them and would have 7 oz weights on them all.

[benbosh]

I do it kinda backwards from rig em right. I have the line slide through the hole on the keel instead of the weight sliding on the line, my weights are crimped or tied on. This way when you pick up the decoy the loop is right there at the decoy and just put it on the caribeaner and drop the decoy and it slide right down to the weight then you move onto the next decoy. Makes more sense IMO

[lawdog]

I added a couple sleepers a few years ago and I still haven't figured out a good way to put these away and avoid the weights coming off and the line tangling. There is no keel and only a hole/loop on the front for the string/weights.

What are the options here?

[TylerS]

I get the cheapest cord I can find and tie the keel grabbers to the end. Weight really doesn't matter, as I never hunt big water. If the water is more than a couple feet deep, I don't hunt it.

Those keel grabbers are the bee's knees. No more fuddling around with tangled cord in the bag because the weight decided to slip off during transport! Love 'em!

[BoxMN]

I do it kinda backwards from rig em right. I have the line slide through the hole on the keel instead of the weight sliding on the line, my weights are crimped or tied on. This way when you pick up the decoy the loop is right there at the decoy and just put it on the caribeaner and drop the decoy and it slide right down to the weight then you move onto the next decoy. Makes more sense IMO

Ben, I like that idea. That way you also don't need the egg sinkers, but any weight will do. I might change a few of my texas rigged and try it out!

I like the tangle free for texas rigged, but tangle free can get weak at the crimps, and then break. I don't crimp them anymore, but just tie knot loop.

For anything more than a couple feet deep, we wrap as HugoBox says, works the best and quick, you just need to tie them so the line length has the strap ending perfectly at the kneck. In NoDak I have my 5 decoys texas rigged, and that is all the dekes you need for a small pothole there.

We do have a few spreaders, and they are great in theory, but PITA when using, especially in dark.

[benbosh]

All of my loops are just tied and the weights are crimped on. It is nice not having to use egg weights, haven't used them before, but I just used the same weights that were on the decoys (strap weights) and haven't had any problems with them. Really makes it nice picking up decoys with a 25-30 mph wind and freezing air/water..

[Walleye Guy]

The loop on the "topside" is very handy. However it makes putting cord extensions on the decoys if you ever hunt deeper water more difficult. I know most of us don't have to do that very frequently.