Yamaha F150 break in procedure and other questions?

[Moose-Hunter]

Quick question...

Do any of you Yamaha owners know off hand, what the breal in procedure was on your F150 four stroker?

Do I need to stock up on parts, filters and fluids for this engine?

Did you stay with the stock prop? If so, why? If not, why? Please include boat and performance specs.

Thanks!!!

[marine_man]

You shouldn't need any add'l parts to do the break in.. it typically involves running the motor for extended time at varying RPM ranges. Your owner's manual should cover the process.

"Stock" propeller in the marine industry pretty much means it's aluminum. If you dealer did his / her job, the prop you receive with your boat should provide the best performance... a balance of hole shot and WOT RPM's running close to the upper end of the spec.

marine_man

[Northlander]

Unless you run a lot of shallow waters and rivers toss the aluminum stock prop and use as a spare and get a good stainless. You will be glad you did. You will notice a big difference in performance.

[Moose-Hunter]

You shouldn't need any add'l parts to do the break in.. it typically involves running the motor for extended time at varying RPM ranges. Your owner's manual should cover the process.

"Stock" propeller in the marine industry pretty much means it's aluminum. If you dealer did his / her job, the prop you receive with your boat should provide the best performance... a balance of hole shot and WOT RPM's running close to the upper end of the spec.

marine_man

My bad... I guess I was not very detailed in my questions...

I've done basic break in before on other engines, both automotive and marine. I should have asked for deatil break in info. How long to vary the revs, what to do after this is done...

The additional parts I was really referring to was basic comsumables. Oil, lubes filters and such. If there's anything special I need for the Yamaha 4strokers... I gotta stock up.

From what I'm told, the stock prop for the F150 IS a stainless unit. However, I'm not sure if it will be the best for my personal application. Since I do have a 9.9 kicker, top end is what I'm looking for. BUT... since this boat will do a little "double duty" as the family fun boat, I'll still need hole shot for skiing and tubing. If I were to switch to a more top end specific prop, will the engine be able to pull the down low torque needed for towing? It doesn'yt need to do it "well", it just needs to do it and not blow up because of it.

[marine_man]

Here is the section from the owners manual on break-in:

As far as consumables.. filters vary with the model... should be listed on your owners manual.

If you're getting a stainless steel prop you should be able to get what you need.. if not, work with your dealer to get there. Top end RPM should be very close to, but not exceed, 6,000 RPM. If you're there, and you're getting decent holeshot you should have most of your performance concerns covered.

Are you getting a new boat as well, or just a new motor?

marine_man

[Pat K]

As far as break-in follow the manual, if something goes wrong they'll check the computer and you'll want them to find the rpm ranges recommended in the manual, not what some people say on a fishing web site!

For oil filters look at the after market filters. I bought 1 Yamaha filter for mine in '07. It was around $20. at a dealer. Since then I use a Carquest filter that cost about 1/4 as much.

[solbes]

I have an F75. My dealer stressed the importance of getting some wide open throttle time during step 3. Of course not doing this for more than 5 minutes. But vary it up and down. Give it some cool down time after WOT at moderate RPM's. You want to make sure those rings get seated so as to avoid the "making oil" condition.

Also probably not the best time to troll your motor excessively. I broke in my Yammy on Leech and spent 5 hours tooling around the lake. It ensured it was fully warmed for that first 5 hours and at consistent temps. Your experience may vary...

[Northlander]

I recoemnd using the Yamaha filters and oil at least until your warranty runs out. They like you to use their stuff and then they cant hassle you about any warranty work if you do.

Get your oil by the Gallon its cheaper that way. Get a good oil pump it makes changing upper and lower end oils much easier. Invest in some paper towels, doing the upper is always messy with them Yamahas. Get a good transom saver if you dont have one. Not a wedge but a actual bar type. Im not a fan of wedges I just dont see how they help with any weight/tork put on the transom.

Good luck and if you have any more questions e-mail me and I may be able to help. Im running a 115 yamaha 4 stroke.

[Moose-Hunter]

Are you getting a new boat as well, or just a new motor?

marine_man

My bad... I complete spaced out this thread...

All new gear this season... Boat, main engine, kicker, trolling moter, electronics.... All the way down to a new bottle of Gulp Alive 1" minnows.

A little trailer SNAFU has delayed delivery. Meh... No matter... Good things come to those who wait.

[Moose-Hunter]

I recoemnd using the Yamaha filters and oil at least until your warranty runs out. They like you to use their stuff and then they cant hassle you about any warranty work if you do.

Get your oil by the Gallon its cheaper that way. Get a good oil pump it makes changing upper and lower end oils much easier. Invest in some paper towels, doing the upper is always messy with them Yamahas. Get a good transom saver if you dont have one. Not a wedge but a actual bar type. Im not a fan of wedges I just dont see how they help with any weight/tork put on the transom.

Good luck and if you have any more questions e-mail me and I may be able to help. Im running a 115 yamaha 4 stroke.

Thanks!!! I have a feeling engine advice won't be the only questions I'll have. By the way... I ordered up the mounts for my Cannon Uni Trolls today!!