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Marine carpet


rkpolaris

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Hi I am replacing the floor in my 16ft alumacraft, It is very time consuming so I only want to do it once, I am using the marine plywood. I dont want to get some low quality carpet, can anyone recommend some Marine carpet?

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No, not contact cement, except maybe for small, verticle pieces. You want outdoor carpet adhesive. It's thick, trowelable, and waterproof. Also a son of a gun when it's time to remove the carpet, but thats the price you pay...

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conbond cement would work. I used our spray keg of it from work and it saved a ton of time. Its what they use from factory as far as I know. if you can get a hold of a keg, it would help you out a lot, but i know ours run about $400 per keg.

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conbond cement would work. I used our spray keg of it from work and it saved a ton of time. Its what they use from factory as far as I know. if you can get a hold of a keg, it would help you out a lot, but i know ours run about $400 per keg.

Wow, thats alot of $$ that would be more than the entire project im working on

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Keep in mind that carpet is optional. You could instead finish the floor with something like marine paint and a little sand mixed in for grip. That would hold less water and be less likely to rot. Truck bedliner might also work... Obviously, some color other than black would probably be good. grin

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I was just saying how much a keg costs. Wasn't implying at all to go out and buy one! smile Was just saying, if you could get a hold of someone who has one you could use it would save a ton of time.

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I was just saying how much a keg costs. Wasn't implying at all to go out and buy one! smile Was just saying, if you could get a hold of someone who has one you could use it would save a ton of time.

Ok, I gotcha. should I replace the rivets that were holding the floor down or use self tap screws?

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That is just what I was intructed to use by the dealer and it seamed to work fine for me. But I am no expert.

are you sure deershooter? Contact cement = spread both surfaces (it's runny, gooy, so usually a small paint brush is used), wait until it feels dry to the touch (15 minutes or so), press together. it holds completly on contact, pieces cannot be moved at all.

You see how that doesn't work for sheet goods? I guess they could have sold you something they called contact cement, but normally thats how the stuff works.

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I suggest you use rivets. I replaced all of the rivets in my Lund, I think there was a total of 65 or so on the main deck, outside panels. The middle access panels I replaced the existing stainless screws with new ones. Rivets were aluminum so they were easy to drill out. If you do use rivets and have a compressor and air rivet gun, your golden. I wouldnt want to pull 60 or so 3/4 inch wide collar rivets by hand. I used a compressor and 3/16 rivet gun and it was a breeze.

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I suggest you use rivets. I replaced all of the rivets in my Lund, I think there was a total of 65 or so on the main deck, outside panels. The middle access panels I replaced the existing stainless screws with new ones. Rivets were aluminum so they were easy to drill out. If you do use rivets and have a compressor and air rivet gun, your golden. I wouldnt want to pull 60 or so 3/4 inch wide collar rivets by hand. I used a compressor and 3/16 rivet gun and it was a breeze.

Yeah I have a friend that has an air rivet gun, ill probably borrow. Where is a good place to get all aluminum rivets?

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I had to get mine at a local fastenal, special order of 75 for around $30. I wanted black, but they only came in bare aluminum, which is fine since my carpet it a real light gray. I never did check any lund dealers. I'd put the large flange ones in, with 3/4 or 1 inch grip, depending on how thick of wood you are puting in. I'm sure you could find black ones online if you really wanted too, but I was pressed for time to get her done before opener.

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Regarding the drain.. it depends on what the "normal" drain path is to the bilge.. if your compartments are tight to the floor, etc, and the water is going to pool at the back of the boat I'd be inclined to improve the drainage.

marine_man

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The boat im working on is an 1985 alumacraft lunker dlx 16ft. When I was tearing out the old floor I noticed there wasnt a floor drain, is there supposed to be one?

Hey RKP, We redid a 82 Lunker Classic some time ago. Just thought I would share with you what we did. We added some "stringers" (or whatever you might call them) between the main bow to stern supports to add support for the floor. It really beefed it up noticably. Here are some pics of it. Since you already have the floor out, it might be something you might consider, or at least in key places. We used cubicle frame aluminum (ripped in have with jigsaw to make a "U" and popriveted them on with angle alum bracing).

Just some thoughts. Good luck with the floor. (BTW, I have mentioned it before, but after having bunch of boats and pontoon with carpet, and then redhabbing a few with vinyl, I will never use use carpet again. Cleaner, repells water and moisture and just plain easy to clean. But that is personal preference, just mentioning it smile )

82 Lunker Classic 16 rehab job - pics for floor supports

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The boat im working on is an 1985 alumacraft lunker dlx 16ft. When I was tearing out the old floor I noticed there wasnt a floor drain, is there supposed to be one?

I am sure my 1984 Alumacraft had a drain in each corner in the back. There was a box across the back with a seat on top and a rod box on the left. Console model.

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