Lund Transom Rotting

[phelps]

I have a 10 year old 1650 Angler and the cap that goes over the top of the transom came off on Saturday (Mille Lacs). I took a closer look when I got home and there is a rotted section a foot wide (top to bottom). I called a local repair shop today and they said it will be a $1800 - $2000 job.

Has anyone tried this repair themselves?

[FM_Mike]

There have been many post on this and from what I've read this is quite the undertaking. The

price that you have been quoted seems to be the norm for this type of repair as it is VERY labor intensive.

If you have the time and patience you can do it yourself. The transom material or marine plywood is available and you can probably find a new cap at Lund or a boat repair shop. Then just go at it.

Good luck whatever you decide to do.

Mike

[theharvester]

dont they have a lifetime warranty on their boats?

[harvey lee]

I would have to check my papers but yes, I believe LUND has a lifetime warranty on the transoms and the hull.

[FM_Mike]

dont they have a lifetime warranty on their boats?

I don't think any boat manufacturer has a life time warranty on there boats. I believe the original owners have some items warrantied but that is different for each manufacturer.

The OP could call Lund and see if anything is covered.

Mike

[phelps]

I thought the same thing (lifetime warranty). Original dealer said that it's not under warranty. There have been cases where the manufacturer will provide the new transom board at no charge and the owner is on the hook for labor.

[stick]

I have a small rotten spot on the front deck of my Pro-V, and I called the factory, and they said that they'd provide the material on warranty, but I would be in charge of the labor. So this rings true with what others have posted. I wanted to post this as I have first hand experience in pursuing this on a 10+ year old boat.

[mn_bowhunter]

I did a 16' alumacraft lunker transom in about 2-3 hours for labor. It's not that difficult. Hard part is removing the engine where having an engine hoist would be nice or a pulley system hooked to something solid. Drill out the rivets on the cap, remove scupper drains in spashwell, disconnect livewell, and remove the wood. I used 2 layers of 3/4 cdx that was sealed and glued together. While I was at it I made a pattern and put it in the rafters since my original wood was so far gone. Slide the wood in place, mark holes, and drill out. Put transom in place for the last time, recap with new rivets, and replace all removed components. I used lots of silicone around all holes.

[phelps]

Got the boat back in the water last weekend, lots of labor - not too difficult. Per your suggestion lots of silicone and all new fastners. Two issues; (1) after remounting the engine we had to go back and tighten the screws around the motor and (2) I forgot to hook up the livewell intake hose - needless to say it created a few tense moments.