Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

New wheel house ideas? mods?


travlingypsy

Recommended Posts

one thing i did that works great is put pedistal type boat seats staggerd in the house,it works great you can swivel on them ,and when you want more room just pull them out and you have a clear floor!also i made a 8 hole wall mounted rod holder,all my ice poles stay in the house and they have never fell down ,just an ocasional reel falls off the pole if its a loose mount,1 inch by 4 inch pine boards,made into a box with 2 inch holes on top and holes partially on bottom and a diamond plate back,any type back will do,works excellent. on the boat seats use the "flat plate"with a peg style ,then there is nothing to trip on when removed grin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

one thing i did that works great is put pedistal type boat seats staggerd in the house,it works great you can swivel on them ,and when you want more room just pull them out and you have a clear floor!also i made a 8 hole wall mounted rod holder,all my ice poles stay in the house and they have never fell down ,just an ocasional reel falls off the pole if its a loose mount,1 inch by 4 inch pine boards,made into a box with 2 inch holes on top and holes partially on bottom and a diamond plate back,any type back will do,works excellent. on the boat seats use the "flat plate"with a peg style ,then there is nothing to trip on when removed grin

Got any pictures of the rod holder? I was actually planning on making something like that this weekend to mount to the garage wall for my ice rods. I had basically the same idea, but would love to see a picture of the final product.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd like to see someone come up with a way to run hot water through the frame, so if it ever got frozen to the ice, it could melt itself off the surface.

its kinda redneck but a buddy of mine had it froze in once and about 5 30-06 rounds into the ice around the house and it was free. the concussion of the bullet in the ice bounces off the frame thus breaking it free. Not the best option but it works. Might be touchy on a metro lake LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote=MuleShack]Put a recliner in it!![/quote

Does a couch count?

DSCN1229.jpg

That would be a nice option.

At night when the fishing gets slow, I kick back and watch TV but the bunks are not that great to view the tube. There has been many times I wished I had my recliner in the wheel house to not only jig from but kick back and watch the TV too.

I do have the pedestool seats set up in mine and they are nice to fish from but not relax.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Computer fans work really well for circulating the air w/o usin much power

When your putting your holes in, Think about your auger. Make sure you have enough room for drillin holes

If you dont want your house to freeze to the ice throw some 4*4 blocks underneath

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12v can get from some shack dealers just added some led lights @ the holes found them at a local WM store in the boating dep.110v dont matter would be runnin the gen. anyway to recharge the bats LED's take roughly 1/10th the power as normal bulb not sure about flouesent. just my just helped my nephew build a 8by16

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have just one 26 watt cfl bulb in my house now, I used to use 4ft shop lights.I thought it was just too bright in there for fishing. With the 12v leds I really don't need AC lights. When I have all the leds on, it is as bright as daylight and drawing 20 watts. I only need to use a couple of the hole lights at a time drawing just a couple watts. It's bright enough to see all the holes - I have four. I can be running the DC led lights and the battery charger at the same time and there is no problem catching up and fully charging the battery.

They do make replacement led bulbs for the tailight bulbs that I used to use in my old fixtures. They are a bit pricey but nice that you can use your existing fixtures w/switch.

1156-x-18TS.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have made 2 houses in the past three years which have all turned out excellent. But this time I am having Performance Engineering from Glencoe, MN build the shell. I have many friends who have his houses and nothing but good about the house and frames. I will post a bunch of photos in a new post this spring.

Keep posting ideas!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my 3rd year with my wheel house. One of my main concerns is that a steel frame might rust out in 10 yrs (or less). I had the frame powder-coated, but it's already rusting quite a bit. I don't think there are any trailer manufacturers that still make steel frame snowmobile trailers, I assume because they don't last. At this point that leaves aluminum, but I don't know if anyone sells only an aluminum frame, you would maybe have to go with a shell.

I'm surprised that no one offers a galvanized frame. If it is built correctly a galvanized frame would be coated on the inside and outside. I believe there is a facility in Minnesota that has the capability to do large trailers. Just a thought!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think most of the snowmobile trailers are aluminum to cut down on weight, but not rusting is an added bonus.

The thickness of aluminum would have to be quite a bit more than steel. And if it ever got stuck down on the ice, i would be more worried about prying and torching the aluminum.

IMO its best to just keep a good coat of paint on the steel to inhibit as much rust as possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my 3rd year with my wheel house. One of my main concerns is that a steel frame might rust out in 10 yrs (or less). I had the frame powder-coated, but it's already rusting quite a bit. I don't think there are any trailer manufacturers that still make steel frame snowmobile trailers, I assume because they don't last. At this point that leaves aluminum, but I don't know if anyone sells only an aluminum frame, you would maybe have to go with a shell.

I'm surprised that no one offers a galvanized frame. If it is built correctly a galvanized frame would be coated on the inside and outside. I believe there is a facility in Minnesota that has the capability to do large trailers. Just a thought!

Zinc coating the frame is where it's at.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
    • I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage.  Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.   Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.