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ABS light


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If the light comes on and stays on after the vehicle has started Something in the ABS has failed the self test that is done every time the vehicle is started. This could be an open speed sensor or harness.

If the light doesn't come on until you start to drive than it can be something like an air gap issue with one of the sensors.

The diagnostic charge to take a look at this will range from shop to shop and by area.

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If the bearing was loose than the light should go out until the vehicle moves.

Once the code is set, and the light is on, it stays on, until it receives a good signal from the speed sensors above 15 mph. If it doesnt receive a good signal, it wont shut the light off. From my experience anyhow.

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Once the code is set and the light is on, for most vehicles, the light stays on till the code is read and reset. That way the vehicle manufacturer is assured you are aware there was/is a problem (hopefully had one of their mechanics fix it) and can continue to monitor that situation.

Once you think you have it fixed, there are a number of garages that will read the code and reset for you...sometimes for free if you normally have work done at that garage.

You can also buy your own reader for about the same price as a one time garage diagnostic charge. It may tell you it is a sensor, or loss of pressure (air in the line) so you can fix it without any other diagnostic tools. Some automotive computer code systems are better than others in helping you figure out exactly what is up without involving a mechanic.

Good luck.

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You guys forgot that maybe there is just snow in the sensor harness.

My car had problems with the ABS light, and essentially the brakes not even working to their full potential. After inspection I found there was some snow packed in the harness. Cleaned it out and they worked like a charm.

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Pureinsanity is correct. It may be related to the snow and slush we have had freezing around the sensor. The first time you drive away after freeze up can damage the harness or disconnect a wire or even damage the sensor when the ice gives way.

With the last dusting of snow we got, you may be able to find out which wheel set it off by going to a parking lot and locking up the brakes really hard so the antilock kicks in.

If all but one show evidence of the abs pumping, you have your culprit. Then go park in a heated garage till the car thaws completely and try again. If it still has issues, go back to the heated garage to look underneath for wires and damage (much warmer that way). 2nd to last resort, buy your own code reader, and last resort bring to a garage to have it read. You still may have to have the code reset to get the light to go off though.

Good luck!

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If all but one show evidence of the abs pumping, you have your culprit

Sorry but thats incorrect. If the ABS light is on (as he said it is) the antilock is disabled and will not function on any wheel until the problem is corrected.

Also as Airjer said, if it is a broken wire on a sensor, the light will come on immediately when the self test is performed. If it is shorted from slush and snow and it dries out the light will go off when the self test finds no problem.

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Sorry but thats incorrect. If the ABS light is on (as he said it is) the antilock is disabled and will not function on any wheel until the problem is corrected.

Also as Airjer said, if it is a broken wire on a sensor, the light will come on immediately when the self test is performed. If it is shorted from slush and snow and it dries out the light will go off when the self test finds no problem.

My scenario was I was driving through the snow where I shouldn't have been in my fathers yard to make it to the dog kennel because I was to lazy to walk there! LOL

I got stuck, had to walk back to the house, get the skid, pull myself out, plow a path and than was able to drive out.

Me getting stuck and me pulling my car through the snow with the skid packed snow in my tires and my sensors.

After start up my abs light stayed on. I was able to use the breaks, however they didn't work 100%. Also the ABS STILL worked. After I drove a while things heated up, melted the snow, the occasional pot hole causing a bit of snow knocking power and the light went away.

How do I know the ABS still worked??? I could hear it and I could feel it....

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I wont argue with what you say happened as I wasnt there to witness it. What I will say is that when an ABS light is on because of a fault, the system is automatically disabled, or is at least designed to do so. If yours worked, it was not supposed to and is certainly not a normal condition. I'm not aware of any ABS system that will function with one sensor not reading. The rest of the system would and could not work corectly without proper inputs from each sensor. Without an input from each sensor, the controller would not know if any given wheel was turning or skidding and could not react accordingly.

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I wont argue with what you say happened as I wasnt there to witness it. What I will say is that when an ABS light is on because of a fault, the system is automatically disabled, or is at least designed to do so. If yours worked, it was not supposed to and is certainly not a normal condition. I'm not aware of any ABS system that will function with one sensor not reading. The rest of the system would and could not work corectly without proper inputs from each sensor. Without an input from each sensor, the controller would not know if any given wheel was turning or skidding and could not react accordingly.

ABS works by automatically pumping the brakes when the system senses a wheels are ready to lock.

The controller you are speaking of that would not know if any given wheel was turning or skidding and could not react accordingly? Sounds to me you are talking about a traction control system that tells what wheel to spin, and what wheel to lock up and where the power should go ect.

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ABS works by automatically pumping the brakes when the system senses a wheels are ready to lock.

Actually ABS works by automatically and momentarily releasing the brakes on whichever wheel that the wheel speed sensor tells the controller is not turning, or turning slower than the others. Either way, without a working sensor at each wheel of a 4wal system, they wont work.

I'd be very interested to learn about any system that is designed to work with an inoperable sensor or with the ABS light illuminated if you can direct me to one.

As I said earlier, I wont argue with what you say happened, but I do know how/when antilock brakes are supposed to work or not work. (Unless they mistakenly passed me on my ASE certification tests ever since their inception.) smirkwink

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As I said earlier, I wont argue with what you say happened, but I do know how/when antilock brakes are supposed to work or not work. (Unless they mistakenly passed me on my ASE certification tests ever since their inception.) smirkwink

I understand where you are coming from but weird things happen and weird fixes fix it.

Whats could be the cause of Injector Circuit Cylinder 1 Short To Ground??

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What kind of vehicle, a VW by any chance?

jetta 01. Sorry I am quizzing you smile It boggled my mind but it was a very easy fix!

I remember everyone telling me It was so hard to work on VW. by gosh this car has been the easiest car to work on ever! Put a new clutch in her not to long ago in under three hours!

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if you are feeling a "pump" in your pedal when the abs light is on, chances are you are actually feeling the rotor as it is pushing through the pads pushing the caliper back and forth. As noted by macgyver, if the light is on it disables all abs function. i have worked on abs since they came out and you have either a working system or inoperable system.

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